Since you are the resident expert, my friend has a 2014 Gem, have you ever swapped out, what I think is a T4, for a T2?
No, I have not. It wouldn’t make much sense.
Dave
Was thinking for programming prurposes. He already has a MM and 22” diameter wheels. If I was to up the controller for a few more MPH, redundant with the MM?
I doubt you could gain much speed, and you need to swap the display as well.
He’s not going to want to do that. We are going to need 3 lithium setups though. I’ll be in touch for that once I work the bugs out of mine.
Looks like Im going to be setting up 4 cars with Lithium now so Im going to need a setup (chargers, bms, spoof…) for all four from you. Details on years, controllers and etc to follow.
Im researching batteries now…what would be easier/cost effective for all four setups. We live on Long Island so its flat and all four of us are wanting as much speed as possible, so Im looking to be in the 96v range. All variables equal, 23" tires, controllers programmed or MM’s being used, what do you prefer Volt, Leaf…what works best with your BMS?
Thinking two of these per car…
or grab this pack and split it 4 ways…
Anything will work. Depends on your budget. 50ah is on the small side, but may be ok for level ground. High speed burns twice the kwh/mile.
I recommend 100ah.
2015 Volts have 7 12s modules and 2 6s modules.
2016+ have 4 12s modules and 3 16s modules.
The 3 16s make a perfecty 100ah Gem battery. Look up Grant’s “Spark” thread.
2015?-2016+ have 6 16s modules. Makes 2 100ah+ Gem batteries.
To be honest, I’ve switched to using 60ah LiFePo4 modules in everything.
Paid advertisement follows. 
Many advantages:
Safer chemistry
Can swap out a bad cell
Configurable both series and parallel, pick the voltage and ah you want
Flat discharge curve, 3.2v full or empty
High and low temperature operation
Fitment in any space available
I have 1,000+ new old stock, tested and 1/2 price.
60-70ah test $50 per cell.
Dave
No paid advertisement needed, I thrust you and would rather give you the money they some nobody off the internet. I thought I read that you were out of those batteries? I liked them, especially how you could configure them to fit.
OK, get me some prices…
100AH battery set up (as much V as possible, speed!)
BMS
All harnesses needed
Charger
Anything else you may think of
Im good with maintenance, but the other three guys are set it and forget it people so if there is anything that will jam them up Im in trouble. They are all close friends, just dont want to cause any issues.
New Delta-Q programmed with battery purchase $$$
32s bms with display wired to RJ plugs, spoof, $$$
Buy one and copy it for the others, or buy them all from China, if you can wait a month and figure out the wiring. Not too difficult.
I will configure batteries at no charge.
If 60-70ah is enough, I have 10s factory modules. $$$ each. See the thread that shows fitment in a Gem. Super easy. If you get 3, then use from 24 normal 72v to 30 for 96v.
2 sets is 130ah, may be hard to fit.
I suggest getting all four sets at once on a pallet. Less chance of damage, and easy for me to package.
Then I can do $$$ each 10 pack. $$$$ per Gem.
If I can put 4 chargers on the pallet, I can do better too. $$$ each.
You may even talk me out of more, as this will be way easy for me.
I’ll follow with some dimensions.
Dave
This may be all you need to check fit.
A 10s module is twice as long.
I can customise from 5 to 8 in a group.
So I can make 6packs 2p3s. 120ah 10v each.
8 packs 2p4s 120ah 12v+ each.
Back to the $$$ each cell.
I just sent @LithiumGods 3 or 4 10 packs on a pallet.
Get his opinion. He claims 20 miles on 60ah high speed level ground.
Let me see how many 10s are on the shelf!
Ok, I have 11 10s modules ready to go. Plus several 5s modules.
These are best of the best battery tested so far. None of these have ever been below 3 volts, and all from this batch test 68ah.
I should mention that I only tested the individual cells that were below 3v when I got them. As these low ones were 100% good and over 68ah, I did not break down and test the 10s modules from same group, individually.
Almost 0 chance of a bad cell, but I will take care of any problem.
Ive beat up the spacing, anything other than the 5 pack is going to be a nightmare, not for me but for them. As a direct replacement, 6, 5cell packs will work best. So I think 96v with the spoof is the way to go.
I need to verify what chargers and controllers they have, can any stock, say my zivan ng1 (I have a stock and upgraded) work with the bms? I read that it is possible. Ive done a few BMS’s before with another hobby so I am ok with their use.
And if I keep to the 5 packs, I can distribute the weight similar to the original configuration. Two up front and four under the rear seat. The new shocks from NEV Accessories are much softer than the stock.
Gotcha, the reason I can do better on 10s modules is that they come that way. However, each ten pack breaks down into a 5s pack and 5 loose cells.
This type of cells need compression plates to stabilize them. So the loose cells would need to be boxed somehow. Plywood works well. The pressure from screwing the ends on the box is enough.
I have 11 10s and 3 5s on the shelf. The rest are individual cells.
The more you guys need at once the less work for me.
Michael got his today and should be working on them soon.
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If you were really careful, could get two 5 packs out of a 10 pack.
I did it once.
The cells are compressed rib to rib. By offsetting each cell 1/4" the stack is a little shorter. The steel band can be removed and put back on the same way.
Notice the extra plates on bottom shelf.
Yes I see. I have access to a bander so I could break the 10s packs down and reband them if necessary.
I’m pretty sure three cars will have T2’s and the fourth a T5. At 96v, will the spoof allow the controller to run or should I lower charge voltage for the T2’s?
I think I’m going to have to get one whole setup from you, get it in my car then do theirs.
If you have a bander, you’re all set.
I’ve been told a T2 will only run on 94 v.
I believe you can run 28s. If you charge to 3.5v it’s mostly full. 98v
But when charger goes off they quickly drop to 3.35v.
UPS is about $50 per 10s.
$$$x3
$$$ for charger.