GEM car needs blue pill

jrejr2345 - The identical charger is available from Quick Charge, the OEM, for less than $500. RFF just puts their sticker on and marks up the price. Error code 15 is low battery voltage. A complete list of error codes can be found here: http://www.electricforum.com/cars/neighborhood-electric-vehicles-hev/2486-complete-list-gem-error-codes.html I will need to know what size and type batteries you are using? I’ll give you a step by step tests to help find the problem without replacing unnecessary parts. Do this before spending big money on a set of batteries.

First, turn off the master switch, then clean and tighten all battery cable connections. Use a commercial battery cleaner such as NAPA part number 1072. Hose off the batteries and let dry. Replace any damaged or badly corroded cables. GEM uses good quality cables. I have never replaced one on four vehicles.

Second, Turn the switch back on and charge the batteries to a green light. Record the elapsed time. If you have flooded batteries, check the water level in each cell. Add distilled water if needed. With the key off, check and record the voltage across each battery. If one is even slightly less than the others, it is suspect. Another reason for voltage variance is using different batteries in the same vehicle.

Third, double check that your charger is set for the type of batteries you are using. Every charger manufacturer I have dealt with has had good technical support.

Fourth, drive the GEM under normal conditions until it feels weak. Record the mileage driven. Check the voltage across each battery as before and check again for variance. Sometimes, a weak battery will reach full voltage quickly, fooling the charger into believing the charge is complete. This will result in a shorter than usual charge time and a GEM that needs frequent charging. The other possibility is that one of the batteries is not reaching full voltage. This is more easy to find as the voltage will not rise regardless of charge. This will result in hot batteries, long charge time, charger errors, and frequent need to charge. If one or more of the batteries has lost considerably more voltage than the others, it is suspect. Now would be a good time to do a load test. Before charging the batteries, a hand held load tester, such as NAPA part number 7001112 can check voltage and battery performance under load. Observing polarity, connect the tester to each battery and engage the load switch no more than ten seconds. Wait five minutes between tests. Record the reading after ten seconds. If one or more batteries show weaker results, they are suspect. Compare these readings to the voltage tests taken earlier. If one battery lags behind the others, replace it.

Fifth, If a battery was replaced, charge the GEM regardless of how recently the GEM was driven. Drive the GEM and record the mileage again and compare to previous. Then, charge the GEM and compare the time elapsed. Knowing the correct values for your GEM will alert you when something goes wrong.

Sixth, If you have gotten this far and can’t find anything wrong with your batteries, contact the charger manufacturer and find out what the finishing voltage is for your battery type. Charge the GEM, take the voltage reading across all the batteries near the end of the charge cycle and compare. This will be somewhere around 80 volts. This will tell you if your charger is over or under charging the batteries.

Seventh, look for current draw. This occurs when something electrical in the GEM is not turning off with the key. Charge the batteries. Wait an hour. As before, read the voltage across all of the batteries. Let the gem sit for 48 hours. Read the voltage again and compare. The temperature should be fairly level during this test. If the voltage is still about the same, you should not have a current draw.

Eighth, If the voltage dropped, charge the GEM again. Open the master switch. Wait an hour. Read the voltage. Let the GEM sit for 48 hours. Read the voltage again and compare. As before, the temperature should be fairly level during this test. The voltage should be about the same because the GEM electrical system has been disconnected. If the voltage did not drop with the master switch open, but did drop before with the switch closed, you have a current draw and must investigate.

If you get this far, I’ll tell you how to go through each circuit. I know all this is time consuming. Just consider the cost of a complete set of batteries. Even worse would be to replace them and the problem is still there.

Daniel

THANKS a ton for all the info… WISH I would of looked here prior to finding the RFF one… I will go through motions… thanks again for all the info…

ONE other question… As my cart was dying on hole 18… Charge light on dash was 45… SO i thought I would turn it off, per shot and save a little power… first time i did that it went to 35… So i didnt do anymore… Seemed a little odd to me. Any thoughts… BTW… i found charger on QUICK CHARGE… just like you said… I guess a sucker is born eveyday… i really even belived the guy on the PHONE… oh well… lesson learned… thanks again.

[QUOTE=GEMmechanic;9701]jrejr2345 - The identical charger is available from Quick Charge, the OEM, for less than $500. RFF just puts their sticker on and marks up the price. Error code 15 is low battery voltage. A complete list of error codes can be found here: http://www.electricforum.com/cars/neighborhood-electric-vehicles-hev/2486-complete-list-gem-error-codes.html I will need to know what size and type batteries you are using? I’ll give you a step by step tests to help find the problem without replacing unnecessary parts. Do this before spending big money on a set of batteries.

First, turn off the master switch, then clean and tighten all battery cable connections. Use a commercial battery cleaner such as NAPA part number 1072. Hose off the batteries and let dry. Replace any damaged or badly corroded cables. GEM uses good quality cables. I have never replaced one on four vehicles.

Second, Turn the switch back on and charge the batteries to a green light. Record the elapsed time. If you have flooded batteries, check the water level in each cell. Add distilled water if needed. With the key off, check and record the voltage across each battery. If one is even slightly less than the others, it is suspect. Another reason for voltage variance is using different batteries in the same vehicle.

Third, double check that your charger is set for the type of batteries you are using. Every charger manufacturer I have dealt with has had good technical support.

Fourth, drive the GEM under normal conditions until it feels weak. Record the mileage driven. Check the voltage across each battery as before and check again for variance. Sometimes, a weak battery will reach full voltage quickly, fooling the charger into believing the charge is complete. This will result in a shorter than usual charge time and a GEM that needs frequent charging. The other possibility is that one of the batteries is not reaching full voltage. This is more easy to find as the voltage will not rise regardless of charge. This will result in hot batteries, long charge time, charger errors, and frequent need to charge. If one or more of the batteries has lost considerably more voltage than the others, it is suspect. Now would be a good time to do a load test. Before charging the batteries, a hand held load tester, such as NAPA part number 7001112 can check voltage and battery performance under load. Observing polarity, connect the tester to each battery and engage the load switch no more than ten seconds. Wait five minutes between tests. Record the reading after ten seconds. If one or more batteries show weaker results, they are suspect. Compare these readings to the voltage tests taken earlier. If one battery lags behind the others, replace it.

Fifth, If a battery was replaced, charge the GEM regardless of how recently the GEM was driven. Drive the GEM and record the mileage again and compare to previous. Then, charge the GEM and compare the time elapsed. Knowing the correct values for your GEM will alert you when something goes wrong.

Sixth, If you have gotten this far and can’t find anything wrong with your batteries, contact the charger manufacturer and find out what the finishing voltage is for your battery type. Charge the GEM, take the voltage reading across all the batteries near the end of the charge cycle and compare. This will be somewhere around 80 volts. This will tell you if your charger is over or under charging the batteries.

Seventh, look for current draw. This occurs when something electrical in the GEM is not turning off with the key. Charge the batteries. Wait an hour. As before, read the voltage across all of the batteries. Let the gem sit for 48 hours. Read the voltage again and compare. The temperature should be fairly level during this test. If the voltage is still about the same, you should not have a current draw.

Eighth, If the voltage dropped, charge the GEM again. Open the master switch. Wait an hour. Read the voltage. Let the GEM sit for 48 hours. Read the voltage again and compare. As before, the temperature should be fairly level during this test. The voltage should be about the same because the GEM electrical system has been disconnected. If the voltage did not drop with the master switch open, but did drop before with the switch closed, you have a current draw and must investigate.

If you get this far, I’ll tell you how to go through each circuit. I know all this is time consuming. Just consider the cost of a complete set of batteries. Even worse would be to replace them and the problem is still there.

Daniel[/QUOTE]

Just realized you said you needed battery… ALL the ones that were in it were intertstate marine (29M SRM-29 675 845 210 30 21 6.4 3.4 13 6-3/4 10 61 Auto/Stud posts )

well, we dont have a single place in my town of 17k that carrys it. so i got one at WALMART. (only lace that carrys marine). everstart with same cc amps and size… i tried to upload pic of it but dont see it, even though it says sttached… (
EverStart MAXX-29 Marine Battery)

thanks
je

i guess i know now that its there… here is interstate that was (still 5 in there) was installed by GEM dealer in LAS VEGAS…

thanks again…

Guess there is not much market for marine batteries in Las Vegas. Since you have wet batteries, a hydrometer test can also be done. Be careful with acid. Turning off the car during idle periods will help a little. Those charge indicators are known to be inaccurate. Good luck on the links and with the electrical diagnosis.

Daniel

Hello,

I’m currently also experiencing a flashing yellow on mine… But can’t seem to find the thermal sensor?

The sensor should be located near the two front batteries. The removable plug from the charger divides and then leads to the sensor. The sensor and its wiring are available from Zivan USA / Electric Conversions.

Daniel

Hmm. Looked around for a few minutes and can’t find it. It’s a Gem 2002 e825 2 seater.

If the cable with the thermistor can not be located under the hood, remove the dash panel inside, locate the black removable cable at the top of the battery charger, and then trace this cable. The cable will split into two. One wire goes up the steering column to the status LED. The other wire goes under the hood to the thermistor which resembles a tiny tin can.

Daniel

Daniel,

If you have spare time, any chance you could take a quick picture? That would help out greatly. I’ve never taken the dash apart before.

felix… to remove the dash… it’s an easy thing… on the firewall you will find two screws one on either side… mine on the '95 are the star screws… just back them out… then lift the dash from the inside… be careful of the rear view mirror… the dash is held on with velcro… what futuristic cars we drive

Bob

There is a link to the factory service and parts manuals. The pictures may be helpful. A good idea to download these now as they have not always been free.

http://www.electricforum.com/cars/neighborhood-vehicles/2438-free-gem-parts-manuals-online.html

Daniel

i have purchased and installed 6 trojon T1275 in my 2000 gem car… i did that, plugged in cart… went to use it yesturday, NOTHING… when i disengage the brake i get a constant BUZZ noise… cart wont move but shows FULL CHARGE… i have a RIDE FOR FUN charger that is 1-2 years old… Replaced the ZIVAN one. any thooughts…

thanks je

did you check to see that the motor is hot when it makes that noise?

I wonder if there is something up with the motor.

i didnt check anything on the motor… i talked the RIDE FOR FUN guy that i bought the charger from and he says it may be the controller… its a T1… all was fine til i replaced batteries… ODD that it just quit isnt it?

[QUOTE=jrejr2345;14614]i didnt check anything on the motor… i talked the RIDE FOR FUN guy that i bought the charger from and he says it may be the controller… its a T1… all was fine til i replaced batteries… ODD that it just quit isnt it?[/QUOTE]

Yes, but that’s why I was thinking that something might have gotten shorted out.

any thoughts on the NOISE… its like the brake dosnt know that its on… I have 6 brand new batteries, and the charger starts at F3 (flooded and floating) and gets to 100%… however when i unplug and plug right back in its at 80 again.

[QUOTE=FEUS;14615]Yes, but that’s why I was thinking that something might have gotten shorted out.[/QUOTE]

guy in FL that RIDE FOR FUN directed me too, thought maybe the ignition was an issue… so will take steering colum apart… i just wana golf…

stupid question… are you near a dealer? who was the ‘guy’ in FL?

Bob