The concerned battery (#1) seems to be dropping faster that the other five.
I would consider having it changed out under warranty (if you can).
Otherwise, I would run the car more (without charging) and continue to monitor that battery. Give these notes to your battery supplier as evidence that it is not properly matched for your needs.
Is your Dash display continuing to remain functional?
Even when pressing brakes, signals, and other accessories? (this was the last issue (this session).
Yes, the dash display is working perfectly and signals, light and all accessories have ar eswotking fine plus I am using the brake normally without any issues. it’s confirmed that the problem was the spoild converter which I already ordered a replacement from the US.
Let me pls just remind that I made a load test fir battery # 1 and the reading was 11.5 so pls explain what’s the indication or the battery became bad and must be changed.
Let me also share the readings of the volts after 2:30 hours rest after the driven 5KM.
For how many Kam would you like me to drive the car for, bearing in mind the existing volt readings so that the car doesn’t stop while driving.
Do you have any concern about the rest of t he pack? Any explanation for the sent figures of the various volts readings during the charging cycle and after, especially the 15.52V reached before disconnection ? Any specific test for battery #1 to send to the supplier to try to change it?
Put a normal car charger on Batt1 and charge it up individually. Best to do it now and try to match the others (~12.7v)
Then run the complete pack through a charge cycle. The pack works best when all the batteries are balanced and equal.
Then monitor/measure the batteries (once a week) to make sure they are all remaining within 0.1 v of each other (#1 is currently almost 0.2v lower than the others). If they are all ok, then you can measure them once/month.
Alright, I will do that this morning. Do you prefer to make another load test and check anything else in Battery #1 or the whole pack because my major concern is to protect the pack. I will update you on the result so that you cat tell me if I should change battery #1 or not.
Hello dear,
Just for ready reference I will get you back to last situation and link it with the upfront update after carrying out your latest instructions.
After driving the car 3 days ago the volt reading was as under:
13.41 ( battery one)
12.59
12.60
12.59
13.63
12.61
After I left the car for almost 15 hours the batteries reading became as under:
12.49 ( Battery one)
12.66
13.66
12.64
12.68
12.67
Then I drove the car to the wirkshop for 5 km ( a total driving distance of 10 Km since the volt was 12.7 if the pack 3 days ago ) then i took the reading of the volt and found it as under
12.27 Battery one
12.45
12.46
12.44
12.49
12.48
Kindly note that, I followed the latest instructions you have given as follows:-
I charged the concerned batter separately until it reached 14.4V ( 100% full) just to see if it’s accepting full charge ( The technician said)
W en left the battery f or 20 mins to cool down.
The technician connected a 55w car head light lamp to the battery in order to reduce its volt to 12.57V to match the rest of the pack which were found around that figure. This took 2 hours.
The worship closed as it was evening time, so the technician connected the concerned battery to the pack and it was left for 18 Hours
This morning, I took a reading for the batteries and as follows:
12:75 (Battery one )
12:58
12:58
12.57
12.59
12.58
As you can see the the cold reading of battery one moved from 12.57 to 12.75. The technician needed to reduce the volt to match the pack so that we can charge he th en pack normally. So, he disconnected the battery from the pack and connected the same lamp. After 4 mins th en volt reduced to 12.57 which is strange as it took 2 hours yesterday to reduce it with same figure. However, he connected the battery again to the pack and started a charging cycle. it was quite strange that during charging, the volt of battery one was charging much faster than the pack as it reached 14:4 witching 35 mins while the en rest i fb t he pack was around 12.42. I disconnected the charger as i got worried about the battery one as the charging was increasing. I left the batteries to cool down for 45 mins where the reading of the pack volt became strange as follows :
12.94 (Battery one )
12.84
12.82
12.81
12.85
12.83
I connected the charger again and found that the volt reading of battery one moved to 14.5 in a minute and the reading of the rest of the pack was around 13.34. I disconnected the charger because of the increasing high volt of battery once. I don’t know what to do???
12.94 (Battery one )
12.84
12.82
12.81
12.85
12.83
the technician with myself drive the car at 30 km speed for 2 Km. then we took a reading which was
12.67
12.57
12.57
12.60
12.61
12.60
as you can see the batteries dropped the volt with same ratio it was before driving. I waited 10 mins and took another reading and found the pack increased 5 v nearly. I am waiting for another one hour and take a reading. The most important thing is that the technician has a very big concern about the very high charge that happened when i was charging the pack where battery one rww was ached 14.4v while the others were only at 13.3v nearly, then he said that this battery has bad internal cell that prevents it to absorb tg en charge slowly and that the charge of 14.4 is not real as it’s only at the surface. You help pls.
Many thanks
I need also to understand a very important point so that I can measure which volt level drives for how manyKM. do an example if the reading of all the pack after charging is 12.9. what’s the volt reading should be after driving 20KM or 40KM?
Have driven the car for 17 KM and stopped and took a reading which was:
12.21
12.11
12.11
12.11
12.12
1211
I waited 40 mins and took a reading which was:
12.35
12.26
12.26
12.24
12.28
12.27
I resumed driving the car until I reached 32KM and stoped to take a reading which was as under
11.78
11.66
11.66
11.68
11.72
12.70
After resting an hour and half the reading was:
12.05
11.95
11.95
11.93
11.96
11.94
I Started charging the car and after 2 hours charging the volts rached
13.2
13.09
13.08
13.09
13.07
13.09
Then we had to disconnect the charger cabl cheesecake as the workshop was going to close. Today morning when I arrived the workshop to charge the car after 18 hours rest the reading was:
12.51
13.40
13.39
13.39
13.40
13.39
After 5 mins of charging, the volt reached
13.15
13.05
13.05
13.06
13.04
13.05
then after on en hour of charging battery one started to increase the volt till 13.8 while the pack was around 13.5 the after almost 80 mins from charging battery one reached 14.30 and the pack was around 13.60. After disconnection by 5 mins all volts dropped to
13.10
12.99
12.98
13.00
12.97
12.98
After waiting for 4 mins the volt dropped to
12.91
12.81
12.81
12.80
12.81
12.80
I will wait one hour and try to charge again.
Pls note that the charger lamps remained at the first one at the bottom and never moved to another.
The workshop tecnician says it’s a charger problem not the battery and he wants to connect a small lamp to battery one separately to reduce the volt to match he pack then run another charging and monitor the result. is that ok?
will send the update later today.
Something very strange happened. when I connects the charging cable to charge the car ( after 20 seconds only ) th en volt of bs tree one jumped to 15.5V!!! I disconnected the charge r.m. immediately. What’s happening??? is the charger also spoiled??? Your help pls
Looking at all of your numbers I was intrigued that once B1 was boosted higher that it seemed to remain consistently ~ 0.10v through the range of driving. That is OK.
Until the last few charge cycles. It seems to be charging higher/faster.
Perhaps this battery needs water added? Check to see if it has a removable cap.
Is there anything else attached to this battery? (other than the big orange main cable).
Range Test:
Your run out to 32Km Looks to be Max distance for this pack(possibly a bit less). Going further is stressing the battery too much. General rule would be NOT taking them below 12v.
The Batteries are lead acid AGM and I will check if the cap can be opened and will let you know.
Regarding the driving distance, the batteries were not fully charged because the jump that happened twice to B1 Volt and accordingly I stopped the charging.
Noted the point of not taking the battery below 12V.
I Left the car resting for complete 2 days and the batteries reading is:
12.72
12.61
12.62
12.64
12.64
12.63
Note: Do you have any concern about the charger? I am worried that it is also spoiled like the converter? what can I do to make the batteries fully charged while the volt of B1 gets high and I am forced to stop charging?
You generally cannot open AGM batteries. They are sealed for a reason.
It seems to me from reading this thread, that B1 started going high when you charged it by itself. Was that correct?
I have AGM batteries in my 2002 (the train) and I put a battery balancer on them just because mine will sit for long periods and I want the batteries to stay equal Yours are doing a remarkable job of doing that on their own it seems.
One thing I learned is never let any of the AGM batteries get above 15v while charging. That is where they can start to degrade from over voltage. I have a DeltaQ charger and it creeps up over 90v at the end of the charge cycle so I built a voltage sense setup that shuts off the charger at 89v.
AssyRequired has got you going down the right track.. He is one of the guru types here. Keep working with him and you will get to the end of this.
I am not following this long thread, but can offer opinions on a few things.
A charger cannot raise voltage of a “single” battery. Battery #1 has higher IR or lower capacity. Current through a series circuit is the same throughout. Voltage across each portion of circuit, during charging, is indicative of it’s resistance. Ideally, batteries will be matched closely and show the same voltage. A full battery will have a high resistance to charging current, and show high voltage.
Are all batteries the same type, brand, and age?
Only that 2005 Gem charger will not have an AGM battery profile. Flooded should be ok, though.
Ps.
I noticed a lot of connecting and disconnecting batteries for testing and individual charging and discharging. Totally unnecessary and wasted effort.
Yes, all batteries are same brand, same type, ans installed less than 2 months ago . They are the same brand of the replaced pack.
B1 never been under 12.5V except after driving the 32KM. Is it spoiled and needs to be changed?
Are you using #13 profile for agm? If you use a gel profile it will ruin agm in a few months. As per Rodney aka @Old_Houseboater . #13 is for flooded, but a better choice until you get an agm charger.
Charger is not why 1 battery is going high. You must top balance to prevent it. Keep draining the high ones until charger finishes with all batteries balanced.
You can only top balance or bottom balance, not both. Once top balanced, they will be fine, if charger completes cycle.
All imho. Defer to Byron, forum guru. Or Rodney for care of agm.
Yes, B1 was charged fully but before connecting it to the pack, we connected a lamp to it as to reduce the volt to match the pack, but still maintaining 0.10V abov es the pack.
Could you pls inform how to check the #13 profile and how to change it if needed ?. Delta -Q charger doesn’t have an AGM profile?
Many thanks
Plug in charger with main breaker off. Ie. not connected to battery. After boot sequence, count the blinks. 1-3, 1-3, etc.
I don’t believe so, they may have different profiles loaded. For a long time Polaris discouraged agm by not having an agm profile. They must have had a reason for not liking AGM.