The whistle is because the KeySwitch is OFF and the handbrake is down.
The car thinks you are about to walk away. This is silenced in one of two ways.
HandBrake UP
KeyON.
I was attempting to determine what state the controller thought your car was in.
If your handbrake was down, and you heard the whistle then the car does not think the key was active. If you turn the key and it continues to whistle then something is wrong with your key loop.
→ Check your KeySwitch and connections
Hello dear, you are quite right. And yes, the whistle stops with handbrake up or key on. in fact, I raised the point of the whistle only to indicate that the car is connected to the power but it’s not the problem. The problem is that, the external key erected as shown in the attached photo is not working anymore and the screen is off and can’t set art the car. I needed to know how can resolve this problem.
I raised the point of the whistle only to indicate that the car is connected to the power but it’s not the problem.
Yes, I picked up on that. It tells me a few things.
I was instructing you to perform another simple test in effort to diagnose what the issue could be.
So far- it looks like your KeySwitch may be faulty. Check the wiring and function.
You show a pic of your radio screen. In your pic, it looks like it is is currently working.
When your car does not work, is it dark?
What does your dash display show? Is there anything illuminated on that? Possibly a tiny charge cord Icon?
Hello dear and many thanks for your time and efforts. I wanted to show you the external key which is right above the original key. The photo is before the problem happened. the dash screen is totally dark. Yes, it must be a connection problem so the external key is not working. I will check it with a help of a friend of mine who understands these stuff better than me and let you know.
I had to mi e the car to an electric cars workshop. Since 4 days he is unable to lighten the dashboard screen! He checked the connection of the external key and found it ok. He said while working on solving the problem the dashboard screen got lightened for 3 mins then went dark again. But he maged to start the car without the lightening the dashboard screen. He drove it back and forth inside the workshop and once he presses the brake or use the indicators, the car turns off immediately. He said that we don’t know the system of this car ( Because it’s unavailable in Spain). Your expertise pls.
warm regards
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If your car drives, but shuts down when brake pedal is pressed or indicators are used,
Verify that 12v is not dropping out by monitoring the 12v on Pin S6. (Ref ChassGnd)
Check the common ground point
Under the lower dash section there are several small black wires going to the same location and fastened to the Chassis with a screw, Make sure these connections are clean and the screw is tight.
I would like to bring to your kind attention that I went to charge the batteries but something very strange happened! Before connecting th en car with the charger cable, I took a reading for the batteries which was 12.74V. I connected th en charging cable and within only one minute I took a reading while charging and found the Volt went up to 14.3 which never happens before as it takes hours to reach that level. I immediately disconnected th en charging cable and took a reading for the batteries and found 13.34. I am not sur en if this could provide you with some information. kindly note that nothing is working in the car except the handbrake whistle which i informed you about.
Your observations re: Battery V are perfectly normal.
12.74 at rest is considered a charged battery.
14.3 on a charge cycle is also normal.
When unplugged directly after a charge the battery will typically begin a cool down and find a resting V. A reading of 13.34 is something you would also find.
Public Service Reminder → (As discussed previously in this thread)
When checking your batteries it is also important to check ALL OF THEM every now and then to make sure all batteries are balanced. Checking only one or three batteries gives you only a rough estimate of pack condition.
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Thank you for including some pics of what you are dealing with.
One of concern is your last pic #3 showing exposed wires. THERE SHOULD NEVER BE ANY EXPOSED WIRES ANYWHERE
Do you know why these wires are like this? Did this happen during the last battery swap?
The wires in that pic are part of your tail light harness. Some of them are not used but should NOT be exposed. Especially the Red wire as I think that is the wire that powers the 3rd brake light. If that was touching the frame it might account for the car going dark when brakes are applied.
A full inspection of the car might be in order to make sure there are no other wires like this.
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Back to your beeper (whistle) - The tone when you drop the brake when the KeyOFF is a good thing. It should silence when KeyON.
If it does not, then there is something disconnected with the Key circuit.
He checked the connection of the external key and found it ok.
It might be a good idea and check it again. You should see 12v on that wire going into and out of the switch (when other meter probe on Chassis).
I gave you some specific things to check and I have not see results from.
→ Did you check Fuse5?
→ Note that F9 powers the KeySwitch.
→ What was the results when monitoring S6?
You should see 12v steady and constant. If it disappears when the car dies (when brake or signals triggered) then this is a clue.
Another clue will be → when the car quits, Does the HandBrake tone return at any time?
Hello again and many thanks for the details reply.
regarding t he batteries balance, yes they were all same V reading. But my concern was that the batteries jumped in ( Just a minute of charging ) from 12.74 to 14.3V!!! This jump used to take a much longer time of charging in the past, so is it normal or something wrong?
Regarding the exposed wires, it is an easy job to cover any of them tomorrow. I don’t really know why these wires are like this. But to the best o fb my knowledge, the black ones were like that always and i noticed that while swapping the batteries. but the red one, i don’t know indeed but, yes it’s touching the frame . However, will cover them all and will try to connect correctly the cut wires to its other part. Yes, a full inspection o fb the car will be made to ensure no wire is exposed.
Regarding the brake beeper, yes it’s ok as per your clarification hence, no problem.
Regarding th en key switch, Will check it again to make sure that the concerned 12V is there, but i didn’t understand the meaning of ( when other meter probe in chassis) so pls paraphrase it.
Regarding fuse #5, yes it was checked and found ok along with all the other fuses as well. Fuse # S6, I am not sure of the result so let me tomorrow morning check it again and get back to you. But the technician brought an external wire and connected one end to the positive cable of one battery and the other end to the key switch and found no electric current and I heard him saying to the workshop owner that there is no electric current in the car and that the 12V cable must be not connected. I didn’t understand such technical conversation.
Regarding the handbrake tone when the car quits, no, the time doesn’t return.
Eventually, will do the needful tomorrow and come back to you with the results.
Holy CR@P!!! NOOOOoooooo!
That is NOT the way to go about testing these cars!
It is a very quick way to damage some very sensitive/expensive/difficult to find components!!!
** I would NEVER let that guy work on my car again!!**
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S6 is not a fuse. It is an access point/connector for a 12v accessory. It is a convenient place to hook a meter to monitor the direct 12v feed.
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Regarding the key switch
but i didn’t understand the meaning of ( when other meter probe in chassis) so pls paraphrase it.
When using a meter to check for voltage, One probe is on what you are testing. The other probe is on a zero reference point for what you are testing. In the case for +12v, the reference point is -12v or ChassGnd.
I must update you on the latest situation. After leaving the car to cool down for 3 hours I took a reading and it was as follows:
t
The concerned battery 12.79
second 12.97
Third 12.96
Fourth 12.94
Fifth 12.98
sixth 12.96
I drove the car for 5 KM then stopped and took a reading after switching it off and it was:
The concerned battery 12.41
Second 12.59
Third 12.60
Fourth 12.59
Fifth 12.63
Sixth 12.61
I am really very much woories because I just changed th en pack one month ago!!! Is the first battery is spoiled? What about the pack?.FYI, the technician connected the said 12V wire for about 30 mins as he said and he tested the car inside his workshop ( Just few metres back and forth). on top of that, The reading of the battery didn’t go below 12.5 during connecting that wire and the rest of the pack never gone before 12.7 ( of course that was before driving the car today). Pls inform what i am supposed to do?
