I really need your help
… have a 2000 e825 new batteries the charger turn on 1 yellow flash, 10 to 20 min of green flashing, then flash 2 red pause 2 red pause continuously. What do i need to do should i repair the charger. Please help the car is new to my family. You seem to know the most about chargers. And I saw you previously sold some.
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So, um, do you have a jerrycan a few gallons of gas and a match?
(moderator action made this post unnecessary)
Move along. Nothing to see here.
These are not the droids you are looking for.
This will get you your own personal help and direct flogging. ← is always a possibility
Sweet, so i get to smack him around twice…
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Yellow and black. DeltaQ i guess its called. There is no fan. Or if there is it does not kick on.
The voltage is certainly not to high as of yesterday i had 50% on the batteries a vording to the gauge on the dash… i read 12+ volts at each battery. Is it possible i have a bad battery all 6 are new.
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What makes you say that? Did you measure while charging?
Then remove and clean all batteryconnections. “Bright and tight” (Rodney)
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The dash display is a stand alone guesstimate device and is easily confused. When sorting out weird issues, you can use it as a source, but don’t trust it as gospel. Best to use a handheld voltmeter and get direct readings.
(which you did)
i read 12+ volts at each battery.
This is a very technical group. 12+ doesn’t give us enough of the meaty bits to form an opinion and dismiss this as being OK. If you are going to measure, note and post info, we need more of the info after the decimal point associated with a battery check. There is a great difference between 12.12 and 12.89v. Also, along with an individual battery check, another reading would be a total Pack reading. This is actually what the charger sees. I get it tho- On a '00 Gen1 car this is not easy to do without lifting up the dash and poking around under there.
As Inwo pointed out above, since this is a charging issue, a direct pack check during the charge cycle would also be a good diagnostic clue. I have seen a battery go as high as 17v during a charge, then drop immediately down to 12v as soon as the charger kicks out.
(Guessing) What it sounds like your charger may be doing is going through the initial stages of charging, and during one of it’s mid cycle checks it saw something it did not like and aborted the cycle.
Something else to check → Charge profile
What batteries are you running and what charge profile is your charger set to? For this you need to get a view of the Charger status panel. You might even see the blink code on your dash mounted LED.
Switch the pack off at the main disconnect.
Plug in charger as if you are charging the car
The display will go through a quick boot and self check then go into a blink code.
Count those blinks. there will be a brief pause between the numbers. It may be a multi numbered code. (flash, pause, flash-flash-flash, longer pause, will be code 13)
Report back here with your findings.
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I dont know the exact voltage at each battery. I remember it being over 12v. I can check kater tonight or this weekend. When the charger first kicks on and has the green light flashing i beliene it in the high 14s maybe even 15 volts per battery. The chaging setting is on 13. I fo have the 27 deep cycle batteries in it from costco so they are flooded. I saw others on her using them and that is what was in there when i bought it. I bought it with “bad batteries from 2018” they were all low voltages but i never actually checked to see if they would take a charge.
Also how do you guys go about checking the battery pack? What battery to what battery? Or is there a better way. And i am charging with the main shut off open.
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-
Main Disconnect needs to be ON for the charger to see the pack. Unless the charger has been hooked up in a way that bypasses the Main Disconnect switch and is hooked to the battery directly.
Since this charger is a DQ (not factory for this particular year of car), this is a possibility. The PO may have decided to be different and wire it up direct. You might need to do some sleuthing and figure out where the charger is connected. -
On a Gen 1 car, the batteries are spread out with 4 in the back, and two in front under the hood. Because of this, the best place to do a Pack V check is under the dash. Locate the motor controller over on the driver side up at the windshield. Two big cables connect to the top. The Right side cable is the B- (battery pack NEG).
- B+ is located over on the pass side. It will also have a big orange cable going to a terminal post and a fuse.
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Awesome thank you. Ill do a check when i get a chance and update. Also has anyone here made there own battery cables? Thinking of just replacing all of them. I would so this buy just buying a role of cables wire and 14 connectors to crip on does anyone have the specs for this or i can do 1 at a time.
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Is the wire gauge 2 or 4 gauge?
I have not had time to chexk the pack voltage yet, but would it be bad for me to have a timer on the charger to run on and off every 30 min to try to get it to charge.
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would it be bad for me to have a timer on the charger to run on and off every 30 min to try to get it to charge.
Actually, yes.
Without knowing why it is deciding to drop out of the charge cycle, repeated cycles may just cause more damage.
One thing you said earlier:
i believe it in the high 14s maybe even 15 volts per battery.
Speculation:
This hints that it might be cooking what you have. Once charger shuts off and it probably drops immediately down to 12v. This makes me think you boiled all of the water out of your batteries.
Pro Tip: Don’t try and outsmart your charger. It is telling you something is wrong.
Profile 13 is probably the best you could have picked (given the standard loaded set), but since it was designed for Gp31 batteries, it might have still been a little hot for your G27’s. Hopefully you kept on top of keeping them watered up and your temp sensor was installed?
made there own battery cables?
Yeah, sure, if you really want, but the original ones that came in the car were pretty spiffy.
Unless the PO has already swapped them out for some cheap cables from autozone or the factory crimped ends are damaged beyond cleaning up for a good contact. Not everybody has the tooling needed to do a good quality crimp on a cable end.
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There ya go. Still think it’s not high?
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Let me double check but i didnt think that would be too high durring charging… i need to look over everything stated head hopefully i can tomorrow. My kids love it and it was my Christmas present to them so im really hoping to get this goimg right. Thanks so muxh for all the help. I really do appreciate it.
Generally, with any algorithm, 14ish is the limit of normal charging.
It might shoot higher during a certain stage.
The main clue is that the charger is telling you this…
Byron has some things for you to try, but there is a good chance it’s battery health.
If you need battery replaced, check with me about a lifetime, one piece, Samsung, 80 volt replacement.
Unlike lead acid, it has no special charging needs and does not vent.
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When charger is not hooked up.
1)12.89
2)12.83
3)12.82
4)12.85
5)12.81
6) 12.86
Pack) 77.1
Water levels good the batteries are 3 weeks old manufacturer in 10/23 but I still double checked the water levels
Durring charging
- 14.40
- 14.26
- 14.31
- 13.74
- 14.38
- 14.15
Pack) 85.3
When the charger is charging the light by the squiggly line is lit up yellow and the line by the 80% battery is also yellow. As well as the I
About 5 min in it goes to a green flashing next to the full charged battery, then also has the yellow squiggly and the II lit up. Abou a minute into that it starts the red flash 2 red flashes on the warning light on charger as well as 2 on the dash red light…
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I then turned the key on held the brake and gas till it errored out to put a load on the system after that all batteries were about 13.3V and the pack read 80v