Hi all, I purchased a used 2007 e4 about 6 months ago. When I purchased, the batteries were 12month old. The problem I’m having is as soon as I get a reading of half charge left, it will almost immediately drop to turtle mode and red. One times it’ll happen faster than others. It seems like the more often we drive it, the faster it happens.
Check the charger profile, see if it is set properly for the installed batteries. Check all your battery connections, clean any corrosion.
Most likely a bad battery. Post a picture of your batteries and we can give you more informed advice.
Turn the master switch in the dash off, plug in charger. The yellow light will flash a code for 10 sec. Probably a 14 code. flash, pause, 4 quick flashes. Need to know that code for sure. Second those are good batteries. Did you check them for water? being low on water could easily be the problem. If so fill with distilled water and immediately plug in. Most people don’t know that when water is added to batteries they must be charged.
Thanks for getting back to me. Is the master switch the key? Or another switch
center of dash . lower behind little door
Thank you. I haven’t figured out where the code would read, but did fill all batteries as they were all low. Should I be concerned that the low water destroyed batteries or is it a waiting game.
I have had SCS225 Trojan wet cell batteries previously installed in a 2002 GEM. Letting them dry out definitely affected their performance as they ultimately failed early.
It’s showing a 14 code like you me tioned
It’s a 14 code like you mentioned
Here’s the page from a DQ product manual (available on their website). 14 is a Deka Gel setting, and is not correct for Trojan wet cells. You should be on 13. As noted elsewhere on this forum, the wrong algorithm will ruin your batteries.
Thank you I’ll try to get that done.
Use the search function, see how to change profiles as described by @Old_Houseboater as he details a slick way. It’s the least intuitive interface know to man, simple only with a computer, a dongle and proprietary software.
Thanks again. I can’t believe it doesn’t have a button to cycle through.
As people have pointed out must have profile match the type of batteries. 13 for flooded batteries. I placed brand new batteries from orielly. I didn’t check or charge them and after 2 miles the rabbit won’t go and slow mode. Checked each and one was 9 volts. So was obviously not charged or bad. I individually charged it. Make sure you have a modern individual automatic charger. I got one Amazon 30 bucks also does pulse repair on older batteries. Anyway after this all batteries have been good and works like a charm. Must have algorithm of 13 for acid flooded. These will evaporate and need to be checked and filled periodically. Deep cycle batteries a must. Starter batteries will be ruined no matter what way we charge them. So not any car batter works. Deep cycle are meant to be discharged and recharged completely if needed. However ever one needs to know that lead acid flooded batteries and even gel batteries are best kept fully charged. This way they sulfate the least. So recharge after each use. Every so often like 6 months check all water levels in a flooded battery and use the individual charger I mentioned to do a pulse repair and charge on each battery. This will break up the sulfates. This way your batteries will last 10 years. All this is just my opinion I’m not an expert. So no dissing what I found to be information that might help us with these batteries.
I just bought a 2002 GEM 825 that seller had new interstate batteries installed. The cart must not have the correct ‘profile’ programmed as it barely makes it 4-6 miles before error code -15.
Charge on batteries is high also. 16-20 volts at each of the 6 batteries (I’m wondering if my Fluke is wrong as it show 172V at the disconnect terminals!).
Obviously I’m a newby but attached is s picture of the batteries.
How do I program and correctly test the batteries (voltage and load). Also, there is s loose connector under the hood if anyone can tell me what it is?
Charge profile- Don’t just assume. Why not check?
Scroll back up in the very same thread you tacked on to here and you will find instructions to check your battery profile. Change it if not correct.
Batteries- It sure sounds like you have one or more going bad. Charging to 15-20 will do that. You need to do a load test. Do a search and you will find several threads on how to do this but here is a real simple explanation from Old_Houseboater
Put your volt meter on 1 battery, hold your foot on the brake HARD and push the throttle for 2 seconds and note the voltage. Do all 6 batteries. The dud will show up.
You will need a working meter. Verify that yours is accurate or buy another.
Sure- the seller said the batteries were new, but can you find any big round date code stickers on them? (Taken off on purpose?) I see none of the little install circle tabs pulled off the label, but who really does that anyway? Last chance you might find a melted number pressed into the side. Sometimes you can figure out what that code is.
Unmarked, loose wires are the joys of second hand ownership.
Judging by the length, color, crimp terminal, and proximity of the Neg(-) batt terminal being right there, I’d say odds are good that it went on that post. Is that the last battery in the chain? It’s up to you to decide if you want to take the advice of Dirty Harry when he said, “Do you feel lucky, Punk?”
To fully understand the nature of the wire you might want to follow it back to it’s origin and discover it’s origin. It might be related to your charging issue, or an afterthought from a sloppy accessory install that introduces more problems with draining batteries when parked. It might have been unhooked for a reason.
I can’t tell from the photo, but the loose wire might have been the temperature sensor for the battery charger. It’s about the right diameter and that’s kind of typically to where they would reach to on the 00-04 years.
As mentioned, you’ll have to trace it to find out for certain.
And, send your meter in for calibration or get a new one. 172V is impossible with six 12v FLAs. I would question the 16-20v readings you are getting too.