Should this be here its gounded to plastic
So I took my kids to get ice cream in it today. Its about a mile maybe 1.5, when i left i saw 100% on the gauge about 2 blocks it dropped to 59% when i got to the icecream shop it read 56% ill update on my way home.
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MUCH better. Now I feel like I am right there beside you. (Is that creepy?)
When the charger is charging the light by the squiggly line is lit up yellow and the line by the 80% battery is also yellow. As well as the I
This is normal
About 5 min in it goes to a green flashing next to the full charged battery, then also has the yellow squiggly and the II lit up.
Normally, a flashing full battery means it is setting up for a finishing charge. Steppng down to stage2 might be an equalize charge where it gives the batteries a big hit in an attempt to let the low ones catch up.
About a minute into that it starts the red flash 2 red flashes on the warning light on charger as well as 2 on the dash red light…
When it finally errors out, What is the pack V right when it goes to Red2? (yeah, OK you need to catch it just right)
Is that when you measured and printed the results (above?) Marked “During Charging”.
then turned the key on held the brake and gas till it errored out to put a load on the system after that all batteries were about 13.3V and the pack read 80v
I don’t understand your thought behind doing this?
Is this right after charge?
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When you get back from your ice cream run, DON’T plug it in yet.
Measure your 6 batteries again and Pack V.
Compare it to what your % is showing.
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I messed up and did plug it right in the dash stayed at 59% for the full ride back tho. I plugged in for less then 5 min should i go get a reading on it?
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No- That’s ok. I should have given you more notice.
Get that next time you take it out for a spin.
Also, Maybe attach your voltmeter to the top of your controller so you can get a reading as you are driving. This may explain your rapid % drop.
Your Display is a Voltage based device. It looks at packV and compares it to a scale and takes a guess at % of charge. When V drops, it dings off a couple %. When it drops A LOT it shaves off a lot.
If you have a dirty/corroded or loose connection (anywhere) in the battery chain, the resistance between surfaces can cause a V drop under high current use. At rest, the v comes right back up. If you are only taking a snapshot when the car is at rest, then you only have part of the picture.
The Display might be seeing this drop and recalculating based on what it is seeing when under driving conditions.
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Big drops are not unusual for the T1 & T2 carta with the little round display. The algorithm for voltage to percent is pretty primitive and there is no way to reset the soc, at least not without software and an interface cable from what i recall.
Still some wierdness going on with your cart, may not be as bad as hoped.
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Here’s something that might be worth looking into.
This is your Batt Temp Sensor for the DQ. It shouldn’t really go here.
I have run into two types that look like this (ring terminal with black molded case and two wires coming out of the end).
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Type A does not care where it is mounted or what it is connected to. If you measure either of the two wires and the ring terminal there is no connection. From what I can tell yours looks like this type.
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Type B usually has a black and a white wire coming out the sensor. It must be connected to the first terminal in the Batt pack. Specifically B-. It has a direct connection between B- and the black leg coming ot of the sensor.
Just for a test, try removing the sensor from it’s present position and let it free float for now. Does your charger act different?
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But how will we know what temprature the frame rail is? 
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Do we know what batteries these are?
Other than charger not finishing full cycle, car may be fine.
5-10 miles from starting batteries?
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Y- Up at post 10 it was stated
Is why I think Profile 13 might be a little hot for them? Is expecting Gp31?
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Correct they are the 27 deep cycle marine batteries from costco i have seen others say they use them on here and that is what was in it.
hey, this sounds alot like my 2008 AGM batts which saw over 16V on all them at finish time.
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Yes, these are the pros/cons of the archives here. I can find a handful of discussions from people that have done this very thing. One has to be careful when using the archives for several reasons.
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Old data - The first discussion I dropped in on was dated Nov '10. (That is 2010) Much has changed in battery construction since then (not necessarily for the better)
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Short term reference - Much of this same discussion was more/less “I just put in costco 27’s and they work great” These testimonials were left by characters that disappeared shortly after.
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Research stopping short - Looking deeper in the same topic, there were a few that DID check back in and after a few months were having battery failures and swapping out a battery or two. There were just as many that threw in their opinions saying the 27’s were just not suitable for cart duty and was a bad idea. This was even back in 2011.
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Friends don’t let friends drive lead. 
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These where what i could afford.
I mean they are costco so i may be able to return them all and get deep cycle 31s somewhere but the price difference is huge, these costco batteries were on $90 each so about $550 total.
Yup- Totally get this. I recognize that not everybody has pockets full of disposable cash to dump into a play car.
The costco solution works for some. Especially for those that are just figuring out how a cart will fit into their routine. What the demands will be on this car, How often it will be used, and if the cart even works (if purchased in non functional condition). Quite often a seller will go out and get the cheapest batteries he can find just to sell the car (for more money). Sound familiar? Your car came with the same type of battery. How old were they?
Most often noted is that a driver using a cheap set of batteries will experience this thing called “Range Anxiety”. Every time you go out, you will be worrying if you have enough power to make it back home.
Second, you may be saving money up front, but having to replace the batteries in a year will soon cost you double.
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I bought it non operational the batteries in it were from 2018. The seller stated it needed new batteries.