I just purchased a 2000 gem E825, put 6 new Renogy hybrid gel cells in it, and the only thing it will do is buzz if it is in road mode with the brake off! I have voltage at the main contactor (but NO click) but no display or anything else! HELP!
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Is the car still plugged in?
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When you first switch the main power on at the battery pack does your display light up for a few seconds then go out? (this is normal- Just a check)
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With no display I suspect the keyswitch or interlock is suspect.
Interlock is easiest to get to. Jump those and try again.
Then try jumping your key switch.
FYI, the dashboard comes off pretty easy to get to the guts of what makes these run. There are 2 philips head screws in the channel below the windshield once you flip open the hood. Once those are removed, thereās just some velcro at each corner of the dash and one or two across the middle sections of the dash. Just grab and edge at one corner of the dash and pull up and out then work your way around the dash to the other end.
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I tried jumping the key switch - no luck. How do I jump the interlock?
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Connect the two interlock wires together.
on the Zivan charger they are the 2 wires in the back left(IIRC) corner looking at the charger and they are the only 2 wires with spade-type ends on them. The interlock is a relay inside the battery charger which is normally closed(connects the two wires electrically ) but when the charger is powered, that relay opens and disables vehicle operation so you donāt drive off with the charge cord connected.
Doug - itās a 2000, those would have Schott charger unless it was swapped for a Zivan later as those were not typically included until '02 sometime. IIRC, the interlock wire colors remained the same so if Iām remembering correctly, itās the while and green wires. But, I think putting a jumper on the interlock might be premature.
Iām reading where other things were jumped to try to get the GEM to turn on, but Iām not seeing any voltage reads. Was there 72V DC at the key switch? Or if the fuses were even checked. Whatās the voltage in each battery? Whatās the total pack voltage? What charger is in there? Schott (under dash, bright aluminum color), Zivan (under dash, back plastic, fan cooled) DeltaQ/QuikQ (yellow, black fins, big), When the charger was connected to 110v power, did it even come on? Which DC-DC converter is in there (what does it look like?) ? And does it work? GEMs wonāt run witout the 12v Has the VIN been punched into NTSB recall database?
Did the goddamn thing even run when OP got it? If yes, then back the truck up and go see what went wrong with it when the batteries were installed. If not, WTF was wrong with it? What did they tell the OP. Also if it didnāt run,ā¦ and, Bugzap, you seriously just dropped $1600 on six gel cells for a 22-year old non-running GEM?.
Which, BTW, if it still has the original Schott charger, you need to swap it out for something newer, _much_newer. If you donātā¦ that Schott will cook your Gel cells in very short order.
Schott chargers used in GEMs only have one profile: flooded lead acid. Peak voltage during charging for FLAs is just under 15v. Peak voltage for Gel is barely over 14v. Thatās not the only difference btw. But itās pretty major. Basically, that extra voltage will boil the gellied acid and this will leave pockets inside the battery.
If it does have a Schott, and it got plugged it in, did the led on the pod gauge face side light up? If it did, what color and was it blinking or sold?
Based on what is written in this thread, the system checks are all out of order and possibly incomplete. Go back to the beginning and start over.
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Did you ever figure out what this issue was? I have the exact same issue. charged it for the 5th time after owning it
I purchased a 2000 gem E825 and the only thing it will do is buzz if it is in road mode with the brake off! I have voltage at the main contactor (but NO click) but no display or anything else! HELP!
@aaronrocca - Since you dropped in on this thread, can I guess that you are having the same exact problems?
The cool thing about the archives is that the info still applies.
As you are scrolling down through the suggestions in this thread, did you try any of them?
If you offer any additional input to further your specific issue, we usually can offer up the next suggestion and a possible path to success. (unlike Hotzap who seems to have disappeared back in Apr22).
This forum operates best as a stimulus/response relationship
(easy there @JarJarJava).
Hi thank you for your response yes I tried connecting the starter wires I also tested the wires at starter on had 23v dc. I would like to bypass the interlock but not quite sure where to bypass it at it is equipped with the Scott charger still thank you again for your help
Need some background on this car.
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Is this new to you?
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Has it ever run in your possession?
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Power off the car using the Main Battery Disconnect Switch and wait for 60 seconds. Then switch the battery back ON and observe the round dash display. It should light up for a few seconds, show a few numbers, then go out? (this is normal- Just a check). (Confirm it does this)
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What is the condition of your batteries? New? Came with the car?
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Do you have a handheld meter?
Huh?
Not sure what component you mean by āstarterā, please clairify.
There is no 24VDC subsystem on the classic gems (2000-2016). If you habe a Schott charger, your gem is 00-02 vintage.
My post right above your first post has some to-do items in it that would also benfit you. Like running the VIN see if thedc-dc converter wss replaced.
Awesome thank you so much sorry I meant ignition not starter I will run the vin here shortly it is very strange as it was running great only thing I did was change the back brake pads after that did not run it did show -51 on display now shows nothing when I shut on and off master switch under back seat shows me a display for about 10 sec of battery charge percentage then shuts off and does nothing
you REALLY donāt want to be talking about an ignition to JarJarJava and a 2000 GEM. Itās an explosive subject.
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Better hold me back boys! Themās fightinā words
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If you want to get rid of that charger i may be intrested.
Ok cool I did order a new one I know it works fine
History of this car and sequence of events are important for us to figure out the proper path for you. Letās break this down.
it was running great only thing I did was change the back brake pads
This is important, but also odd that these seem to be two unrelated cause/affect events. Did you move around any wires? Maybe you pinched a couple with the jack?
At least your comment that āit was running greatā gives a little bit to work with.
after that did not run it did show -51 on display now shows nothing
-51 is a weird code to be showing at this time. It might have flashed on screen as you were power cycling with key on ON position. I am going to ignore it at this time and loop back on this if it shows up later.
when I shut on and off master switch under back seat shows me a display for about 10 sec of battery charge percentage then shuts off and does nothing
This is normal and also important. The initial Power Up info on the screen tells me that the controller logic board is seeing the battery and powering up, the display and wiring is OK, and we can go look at other things.
Next, we can go look at the key loop. (as explained above).
I think you said you replaced the Key Switch? ā Verify (Y/N?)
We also need to know the status of your PWB. Has your car had the DC Converter/Wiring Update? Aside from checking your VIN (which could be incorrect), You need to just look inside your dash.
If your car has NOT had the update - Under the dash on the Pass side lower section, you might see an open circuit board known as the PWB (Printed Wiring Board). There will be caps, resistors, hand wound coils and wires going to the board. Like this:
If your car has the update - You should find a black box with fins tucked in the same area.