I’m running a 2p24s Chevy Volt pack in my 2016 GEM, which when it’s fully charged, is plenty of capacity for my normal weekend driving. Delta Q is using profile 161. Problem is, the charger won’t kick in and start charging until it’s under 91v and when it hits 93v, it ramps down to 2.6amps until the battery is full.
During the week, I start at a full 98v and I’m doing short runs to the store and back. I burn down to 92v and the charger never kicks in. Then Sat rolls around and I have a bunch of shuttling to do… kids to soccer, grocery store, home depot, etc. etc. and I’m pushing my capacity limits (I actually ran out of juice the other weekend). If i could just make sure that I’m topped off for the weekend and/or I didn’t have to deal with the 2.6amp charging from 92-98v, I’d have plenty of juice.
Take today for example - was coming home from a morning run and realized I was at 91.2v when i pulled in the driveway… so I buzzed around the neighborhood until under 91v. Plugged in at 1pm, here we are at 8:45pm PST and it’s still charging at 2.6a. So I guess I’m looking for 1) how do I get the charger to enable >91v and 2) how do I push more amps unit it gets closer to 98v.
My thoughts -
Anderson plug wired to the battery so I can connect an external Chargery charger to top off when above 92v?
Different DeltaQ profile? 177?
Open to ideas.
PS. 2016 was converted to high voltage. Swapped the controller, motor, charger, DC/DC converter and batteries from original.
Testing a new installation today 24s Samsung SDi, Using #177, still in the 80’s and charging at full amps.
I called it for the night, (I never leave it charging unattended the first cycle) I’ll plug it back in tomorrow and report
Sounds like I just need to change the profile to 177. It’s all coming back to me now…
The volt packs were supposed to be a bridge until I got the telsa pack squared away. Wasn’t going to run a BMS so we went with 161 to be safe. Ended up putting a JK in and have been running the bridge for a while now.
@LithiumGods loaded me up with a bunch of profiles when we switched to give back the DCI for more inventory. My luck of course, don’t think 177 is on there
I actually have one in my garage. Bought it off eBay cheap, never got around to messing with it. Doubt it has profile 67 on there. Anything higher and the batteries will catch on fire. I just get worried if the BMS gets incorrect setting it won’t shut off the charge current early.
Yes, I set charger at close to 4.2v. Ok for onetime if bms fails.
Then set bms to a safe 4.**.
This is when charger can start again from bms.
That looks fine.
I don’t use 161. It must have a different threshold for starting a charge cycle.
Did I read in one of the threads you had profile 67 for the 96v chargers? That thing is useless in the current config. If I’m going to ship one, might as well be the 96v. Save the current charger for future projects
Yes, 67 is 98.4 volts
Ship them both, I’ll add 177
Is your Tesla in the works. Maybe send it here with George next time. You need to get something working.
I just soldered to the Tesla collection bars and it worked great. Maybe that’s the hold up.
Is your Tesla in the work? Maybe send it here with George next time. You need to get something working. I just soldered to the Tesla collection bars and it worked great. Maybe that’s the hold up.
No- I am the hold up on those T-packs. Just spread out a little too thin again. My fault.
I officially moved them up to the front of the workbench and will get the program fired up again.
Check this out. That solder works great . Clean and tin aluminum bars and wires.
Use a giant iron to press wire down on bar. Add solder, then use a cold blade next to iron to hold pressure on join while removing iron.
Heat should not be an issue. Only path to cells is the small wire. An iron should not reach fusing temperature of aluminum wires and welds.
