Delta-Q charger internals related to the Interlock - don't connect green to B-

Anyone here been inside a DQ and repaired after connecting the heavy green wire to B-?

Here I was thinking this is a battery charger like others and big red wire is B+ and big green wire is B- and the temp sensor can just float since the terminal is just a heat conductor. WRONG. DQ uses the sensor for Batt temp sensing AND B- charge connect but that big green wire is the Interlock wire and if you touch it to B- it blows 2 fuses inside and possibly something else.

I jumpered the fuses since they were tied to the interlock cable(green) and wasn’t going to use it for the battery charge testing but the charger still blinks 6 times.

Anyone have any ideas what’s next?


My court date is next week. Wish me luck…

1 Like

I guess you missed all those threads?
And the many rants on that dang green wire?

Depending on what profile you are using, You generally can’t leave the white wire floating. It needs a sensor or 10k going to B- (Yes- that one can go to B-).

I don’t think he was referring to Dairy Queen.
I thought that restraining order was supposed to expire long ago?
It sounds like they still haven’t gotten over “the incident”?


I sure did miss them and wish I had not. grrrrr

This one has a different sensor than the DQ which is in my 2008 and that one has relatively small wires on spade lugs going to it. The white and black wires on this DQ sensor/B- connection are beefy like the red(B+) and green(I).

Yeah, they are like that. I think it’s must be the generic 12/4 that some guy ordered.

I didn’t think your action blew two fuses? You popped the input fues too?
It sounds like you found the one totally buried down in the corner under the output cable. I’ll need to go look for another associated with the output.

1 Like

when I looked up what error 6-blinks is I found this as one of the entries:
This fault will occur if an internal fuse inside the charger blows. If the
green wire is shorted to ground even momentarily this fuse will blow. To
check the fuse, measure with an ohmmeter between the green and red
wires with the AC disconnected. If a short circuit is not measured, the
fuse has blown. Return unit to a service depot to have this fuse

I ohmed out the green wire lug inside the charger and it’s directly connected to the bottom of both fuses in the corner nearest the output cables. Since the fuses both were open and both ends were tied together, I just jumpered the lug on the board( brings the green wire out of the charger) to the top of the fuses. Ohmed out they ohmed as shorted across the fuse which was the intention of the jumper.

The charger powers up with 120VAC, blinks lights and then after a half a minute it starts blinking 6’s on the error LED.

Since the fuses both were open and both ends were tied together

Ah- That’s what you meant by two fuses. It sounds like service tech Larry did not have the proper 20a? fuse and just tied two 10a fuses together.

I think you missed something with your method of jumping fuses.
The green wire is not needed to be hooked up for the charger to boot. Sure- (if you were using the interlock) you probably have B+ on it now, but the other side of the fuse still does not. Apparently the charger knows the fuse is still blown and is upset over it.

Could be, I had only ohmed out the bottom ends of the fuse and the spade lug the green wire was plugged into. Since it ohmed really low and the multimeter was beeping I figured it was a direct connection so I jumpered that spade lug to the top of the one fuse. I’ll check it out again.

Remember, I had wired the green wire to B-, left the sensor floating and when I connected red/B+ the large clamp was fused to the B+ terminal nut. Some big current flowed.

I had no idea that “a blizzard” was just an ice cream shake…

As you know now, it is NOT. Just replace the parallel fuse array with similar fuses. The “green wire” is monitored by logic circuits but pretty well buffered. Charger usually survives short circuits, but not always.
If not, they are concidered not-repairable. This from someone who has repaired a bunch of them. Revisions seem to be made twice a year.
The issue is not the actuall repair but reassemble. The thermal resistance and hv isolation of the power components is critical. If not perfect the repair will fail quickly.

1 Like

I agree that these are temp critical.

With the stock Gen2 mounting location(way up under controller shelf) I never really paid attention to how hot the DQ actually gets. I’ve done some testing on a bench and after an hour at 12+ amps these things get uncomfortably hot for a sealed box of electrical components IMO. Through the JK app I saw that the DQ actually pulled back to 9a just to keep itself from burning up (just sitting on the bench). I rigged a small desk fan to blow some air over it and the charger ramped right back up to 12.3A.

I no longer like to mount the DQ under the dash on an early Gen1 Zivan swap(not much air circulating under dash). Knowing this, I might come up with a fan mod and circle back to a few local guys here and rig it up under there to see if it helps me sleep better at night.


Not the same as sneezing into your baggie of blow.

At least you didn’t say snowball…

Aluminum foil wouldn’t work so I soldered 2 pieces of wire across those two fuses since they had nice metal end caps. No difference, it powers up, self-tests, sits for ~30 seconds and then blinks 6 times on the error LED.

I’m thinking I blew this charger by wiring green to B- and then connecting red to B+.

What is set up on the white wire?

there’s a white and black wire tied to the temp sensor/B- loop and that’s getting bolted to the battery terminal. For the red wire I have a jumper cable type clamp connected to the B+ battery post and screw terminal to the red wire.