Is there a number on the DQ? Like dqcp…
Or a big black dot next to sn on the flange?
You will need to program or get a new charger with 24s.
I have new ones for $350 programmed.
Bms from $125 to $350.
I can send spoof with something else.
The $125 bms has no lcd display. Bluetooth only.
Controls charger only. Not heavy duty enough to run 300a through it.
300a version with lcd available. $250
The Chargery bms-24 is in a nice enclosure and comes with a display. Main power can go through it to read amps when driving.
If you can wait, most everything can be found in China for less money. I mark it up enough to cover support.
Found this for splitting a 12s module into a double 6s.
Same method for any number of cells.
Cut at heavy black line.
Connect small balance leads 1 to1, 2 to 2, etc.
B+ and B- parallel connections carry 1/2 the current. I use 6awg or sometimes 2 8awg.
2 10awg may even work for up to 200a pulse.
The model number is 910-7201 and serial number DQCP720513007313, also has 7212 on it. On delta q website it says if serial number starts with DQCP then the charger is not programmable.
The Chargery is pretty repairable and has factory support.
But has to be sent to China for warranty.
I can do small repairs myself.
BT bms are throw aways. I like them though!
Just got in a few bezels for the bt lcd. If someone needs one.
No black dot but mine does not have the separate label with serial number. All the numbers are all on the top. Delta Q website just says that if the serial number starts with dqcp then it is not programable. file-5|375x500
Which ever bms you like better is the one I will go with. Having a throw away probably isn’t all that bad with the way electronics are always changing.
I have a dqcp720641015323 that is programmable.
It looks like you just missed it 7205. 7206 is ok.
The only way to know for sure is to try it, but you may be out of luck.
How much would you charge if I sent you my charger to see if it’s programmable and then you could ship it back with the battery packs and bms. I might be better off just selling it on ebay and buying a new one from you for piece of mind.
I will just go with a new charger from you along with batteries, spoof, BMS, faceplate and anything else that you sell that I will need. I can pay through PayPal using friends and family so no extra fees.
Just let me know how much and I’ll send the money.
Batteries are ready to box up.
Balance leads need to be done 1 at a time using a meter. Grant has done a lot of them. He may explain his method. Must be done after the 3 are connected in series 123. And they must stay in the same sequence. 123.
This is very similar to the Bolt battery balance lead connections. @grantwest should be helpful.
As it is so easy for me. I punched pilot holes in center tabs and included 6awg jumpers and ss hardware.
Marked + and -, red and black. Also new + and - by center tab.
I will go into detail when you have batteries in front of you. For now, be very careful to check for zero volts between any points that will have a jumper installed
Even if you are confident in proper connection and you are following my instructions. I can and do screw up.
If there are zero volts between two points it is safe to connect them with a jumper wire.
Even the series connections between modules will measure 0v.
When done 90v can be measure from + to - across the string.
I suggest doing all connections on the bench. Testing as you go.
There are risks working with batteries. Must be done “hot” as there is no way to disconnect power.
I’ve unpacked everything and I don’t see the jumpers or ss hardware. Am I blind or did they not get packed. Let me know what you use so I can order some.
