Clarifying… Keeping the original Gem fuse. Looking at getting fuses for inbetween the batteries
Oh, ok, I don’t see the need. That was a good place for me to mount the original fuse.
As the battery system is isolated, makes little difference where, as long it’s inline somewhere.
I don’t know if the controller or Gem has ground fault indication or protection. It would be a good idea.
I wonder if neon illuminates at 72 volts? Would make a good indicator.
First me and theory don’t get along well. That said:
A thought on 24kw system, if the bms24t is at 1.2 amps balance current (unadjustable) and the packs are paralleled into BMS. Theoretically the current could be divided among the two packs and maybe not blow the 650ma fuse. Doubtful though. Or you could just choke the current in line. Hmm.
In theory, but slight differences in battery IR will not share perfectly.
Current limit may work. I don’t have time to test. If you are going to add resistance to balance leads, why not change fuses. Series resistance will affect voltage monitor, albeit slightly.
Hey Jonathan: can you share some pics of how you did you balance Leeds? What fuses did you go with and where did you source yours.
I’m about to get started on Preping my pack to go in my car. I plan on mounting it in my 2013 under the rear seat just like what David did. Any tips for prepping that pack would be great. Once this thing go’s in you have very little room to work on it. Thanks
Look in middle of this thread for his pictures. 4-7 to 4-19 about.
I saw the pics but they still didi not make sense. Was wondering if he had any more or details
@grantwest The picture up top “Version 2” Is the way. I cut a relief with flush cutter in between the plates clear of the cover plastic. I ran a lead from the plate (soldered) to an insulated spade terminal through a mini atc 2 amp fuse then out to a connector on the outside of the battery. As the battery is difficult to get to after installation I would recommend also putting a fuse block in line to the BMS where you can easily swap fuses if needed.
I ended up getting fuses from several places. my local electronic surplus @ ~.30 each Napa ~.80 each and amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KJF8FT/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it all depends on your timeline.
@Inwo, do you have a diagram, that you can share, for the BMS leads to Chevy Bolt pack? Cheers!
No, I no longer use the Bolt harness. Easier and more reliable to use the leads that come with bms.
If the bms has high balance current, it will blow the oem fuses.
This is how @grantwest does it.
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I recommend use makeing your own JST/BMS connection’s
David’s Famous words (always use your volt meter to confirm your JST pin outs)
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Thank you for the input.
Hey buddy, I am finally getting around to installing this except it will be on a 2005 EL. Install for battery was super easy. My question is about going from the factory converter 12pin Deutsch to the signal 8 pin on the charger.
Assuming I am utilizing the Anderson on the charger for the 12v switched/ unswitched power? It is plausible that the Blue Anderson would got to pin 3 on the 12 pin Deutsch
If so:
what am I connecting to the 8 pin Deutsch Charger beside the temp sensor. If you have a diagram you can share that would be appreciated.
I’m confused. What charger do you have? Where did this come from?
Does it have the DC converter built inside?
Post a pic of the serial/part number sticker.
Otherwise, I think the only wire you will be needing from the 8 pin Deutch is pin 1 if you were running a Lithium profile. (which you say you are not?)
Is this also where your interlock wire comes from? Or are you using the green wire coming out of the other harness?
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I am replacing the non programmable charger that came with the 05 with one I bought for my 02 (programmed for lithium bolt pack) but never put in. It has a built in converter. Solves both issues.
Beware of that green interlock wire coming out of your charger. Check it’s output. (or continuity before it is hooked up).
If you bought this charger specifically for your early car, and it was supplied by someone that knew it was going on an early car, the interlock wire probably won’t work on your 05.
The early interlocks need B- on that wire to go. The later cars need B+ on that wire to go.
Installing one in place of the other is a great way to suddenly need a new charger.
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How do you find out what one you have? B+ or B- for a charger that is not installed in a vehicle?
I have a 912-7200-02.
I’m trying to test it to see if it works. I believe it has been set up for lithium because it doesn’t do the standard light flashing. All 4 bottom lights turn on and a few relays click when you plug it in. I have a 10k resistor on the white wire to B- but not sure what to do with the green wire. Any help would be great. Thanks.
(Not wired into car)
When charger is not plugged into 120v, measure for Ohms between the Green wire and the Red B+ wire. They will be internally connected on a 7200.
(Wired into car)
The green wire will output B+ when charger is NOT plugged into 120v.
Green wire goes to 0v when charger plugged in.
If you are trying to check the profile what is it doing after power up/boot flash?
You may need to remove the 10k resistor and hook the white wire straight to the black to make the charger happy.
The green wire shouldn’t be connected to anything for a profile check.
Yes, if it has lithium sw. Jumper between P1 and P2 does it.