BMS24 housing and mount

I’m working on a 3d Printed housing and mount for the BMS 24 (not “T”) to hide all the wires. It’s available for download .

It’s a work in progress and I have very little experience with 3D design so I included sketckup files online if someone wants to mod them. Just post and share if you do. :wink:

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What is the front opening size?

The opening is 88mm x 107.5mm

the “T” display is 80mm x 100mm.
Not a bad fit.

That’s pretty cool. I have seen places that will 3D print things for your for a reasonable fee and then ship to you. If you have the file and fits a BMS 24 nice and snug that’s a great option. Do you have any photos of the BMS installed and mounted in your car?

Yes I will. This is still proof of concept until I install it. Unfortunately the BMS24 is with my GEM car at my vacation home. That’s gonna have to wait a bit. I 3D printed a “dummy” BMS 24 box based on measurements from the official specifications and THAT fits. LOL. I’ll be interested in seeing how the real thing looks too. :grin:

Pictures from the back of the unit with the blank installed. Clearance on side and back are to run the wiring. 10mm spaces on left and right, 5mm top, 7mm bottom,and 13mm space behind the unit and back plate.

Maybe you can modify the file for Grant’s 24t.
I’ll give you another dimension too, if it’s not difficult to change that one thing.
As this one has no case, it will be more useful than the 24t model.
This bms is bluetooth and goes to 32s.


A customers box.

Shoot me the Spec’s on the bare unit. I’ll take a look at it and see it there’s enough info to design a case. Is that board and screen the whole BMS or just the display?

Modifying it for the 24T would be a bit of a redesign and my 3D design skills leave much to be desired. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:
Does the 24t need a case? I designed it for the BMS24 since it had all the wires sticking out. The 24t display is already pretty streamlined. What would be the goal? To enclose the display unit or just attach it to a mount?

The sketchup files are also available on if someone wants to dabble. Sketchup has a free version and great tutorial.

Only the front panel cutout needs to be resized.
Even that is not important.
But cutting the correct size hole is why it’s difficult to fit in a stock box.



Seems pretty straight forward. How much extra space is needed around the top, sides and back for wiring. Do those buttons on the side need to be accessible?

Also is the screen positioned centrally, equidistant from all sides? If not I would probably need those dimensions too.

Also thickness of the LCD off the PCB.

If I get seriously send it to you.
My buddy Steve has a printer. He’s trying to talk me into getting one.
What can you tell me?

Fun hobby. Even the 3-D design software is not that difficult I think it just entails practice. I originally bought a delta style printer from China, essentially a DIY self assembly kit. I did this as a hobby with my kids. I struggled with it for about six months and never got it to work right. There’s complex geometry on a delta style printer and I had to program the controller. I wouldn’t wish that on my worst enemy. That was several years ago.

I would recommend getting a preassembled unit. There are so many options out there many of which are fantastic. Mine is a Makergear M2, A bit on the expensive side but after struggling with my last printer I just wanted something that works. It is an incredible printer with decent size print bed.

There’s a lot of pre-designed 3-D files online in the library of those items continues to grow. is probably the best known. Having somebody with experience in 3-D printing help out early on will make it much easier.

Is that in the $1500 range?
Steve got a CR-10 kit… About 3hr job.
I would rather spend a little more for plug and play. No time to finish what I’m doing now. Maybe I can talk the grandkids into a hobby.