I just bought an old golf cart used for a maintenance shop and the batteries need a kick.
Ive heard tricks of aspirin and some powder thats sold at Wally World.I also see one on ebay selling these tricks for $10,and another their “secret” powder.
I have had success in past on a limited basis of carefully dumping out all the acid in a tub,rinsing the battery out to get rid of sediment,refilling the battery with the acid refiltered and top off with fresh acid.
IS there anything that works as a magic bullet for tired ones?
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1 - First get a Hydrometer - a glass item with a rubber bulb at one end and a rubber hose at the other. It has a graduated gauge on the inside that will measure the specific gravity(SG) of the electrolyte(acid).
An SG of 1.26 is just right for lead acid batteries.
If its in the red(low) then its time for new electrolyte.
If its in the green then go to the next step.
2 - Find out the amp rating of the batteries. Divide this number by 11 and this is the rate of charge you should apply to the batteries over 12 hours. If you don’t have an adjustable battery charger then just go with what you have. Do the maths on the amps anyway. If the chager you are using has a greater amp output then adjust your charge time accordingly and keep an eye on the electrolyte level as with more amps comes more heat and thus more evaporation.
Charge and discharge the batteries 3 times. To discharge all you need to do is attach a 12v light bulb( or a number of them in parrallel to speed the process up) and wait for it to go out.
When you are charging the batteries make sure that the electrolyte level is about 10mm above the plates in each cell. Top up the electrolyte with demineralised water. This is readily available form auto shops. DO NOT USE TAP OR BOILED WATER!!! This will wreck the batteries by upsetting the chemical composition inside the cells.
When charging do not smoke anywhere near the battreries as they produce hydrogen(remember the Hindenberg!)
After the batteries have cooled they should be good to go.
To check the performance of the battery you will need a load tester. This places the battery under a large current draw to test it. Voltage is no real indicator of the battery’s worth as this is the last thing to drop on a failing cell. As you are using the batteries for high current devices that will be transporting you away from your workshop, testing your batteries with a load tester would be prudent.
Here is an idea.
Not sure if it is accurate but it certainly sounds like a good idea. It is all explained at different places on the site.
did a bit of research 30 years ago and the magic stuff they sell for massive dollars is magnesium sulffate.
to mom it is epsom salts.
the theory is that the magnesium replaces the lead in the inert lead sulphate
or enables the lead sulphat that has become un chargeable and during charge the mag sulphate returns to the electrolite and waits till it can attack the nasty lead sulphate again.
any way that my theory as the magnesium i believe is more active electrochemically than lead.
so the inert lead sulphate plates become active again but it does not address the sedimaent that causes the problem in the first place.