To clairify things for a dummy this is what I’m hearing.
You can use a bunch of cells as long as you don’t charge them to a voltage under the High Voltage trip point of the controller.
More cells are better as far as range is concerned
LI cells aren’t damaged by under charging. Just the opposite of Flooded cells
Charger tecnology is good enough to accurately charge to the set point every time.
NEV requirements are so basic that BMS technology is only required by anal gadget freaks.
Rodney[/quote]
Rodney,
your right on . it is this easy . Dave and I are pushing the limits for fun . but if what u are looking for is long life , better performance , easy install . close to factory reliability . CHEAP costs , this is easy to do .
Don’t want to see you chop up your wiring if it doesn’t work out.
How handy are you at re-pinning your 23p plug?
There are three wires to remove. I can show you how.
Push in three new ones that I have terminated.
Here is a picture of wires and an empty 23p plug.
It looks intimidating, but three of the wires just go thru my device.
If it doesn’t work for you, just push them back in.
This same wiring allows monitor function in sentry sw. 2fer!
Mike reminded me that I still have to mount batteries.
I’m more electrically inclined. Haven’t given it any thought.
Won’t fit between the frame without splitting a 24 pack.
While charging, took the rear off and starting to build a ss battery mount.
As build I mean find something in the junk pile.
I see the $12 price sticker on it yet.
[quote=Inwo;29918]I don’t think so.
This is the low voltage error that won’t allow starting if battery is below 68.3 volts.
Limit is 60 volts while motoring. But if you stop below 68.3, it won’t restart.
And I don’t think lithium will “come back” by sitting a while.[/quote]
correct and correct
you need 20 cells to make the lithium pack the correct voltage . its just like your gel batteries , we call them 12v but they are almost 13v charged . our gel packs are 78v charged .
