Just mod yours. Take the split loom off under the hood. Cover wires using aluminum or copper tape with a small gauge drain wire under the foil. Leave enough wire to connect to controller b-. Put the tubing back on.
Maybe even make sure the throttle wires are near power wires, prompting failures. Then do the shield.
Max lost his contactor by tripping it too much, the way I understand it.
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Hello all. I just had a very productive session with a Sevcon programmer out of France. One issue with the DCF weāre using is even though contactor voltage is set to 48v and holding voltage is set to 29v @ 1s, both are disabled in other areas of DVT so basically, with the DCF I had, I was sending constant voltage (either 48 or 72, Iām not sure) to the contactor coil. We fixed that by āenablingā two parameters which then enabled the 48v initial contactor voltage and the step down to 29v - it was in the ātree.ā
We made some minor tweaks but overall, the message I got is that the DCF weāre working with is pretty sound which was good to hear.
One interesting thing we found was that from a dead stop, if you go pedal to the floor, with my 80v 22s system, we are seeing a current spike of a little over 400 amps. This is probably why the max current is set to 420. If we drop it to 350 which is what the Sevcon is rated for, it will jerk like crazy. For what weāre doing, I donāt think itās a big deal, but itās certainly worth noting that if you change max output to 350, it will not like a full throttle from stop situation.
On the throttle trip situation, I put 8 ferrites and braid/shielding on the throttle wires all the way from the controller to the firewall - Iāve been busy installing a battery box, stereo system, and chasing that contactor issue so I havenāt been using the car much, but Iāll use it a lot in the next week or so and if we get no trips, itās safe to say weāve found the issue.
Dave, on the already made harnesses, no reason you canāt pull the split loom off of the part in the engine compartment and add shielding, but frankly, you might be able to add some ferrites to filter out noise.
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Thanks for the work. On the controller, I always set contactor voltages in ātreeā without issues. I wonder if we are on the same page there.
Letās hope it is throttle, and your fix is good.
I like to keep max current at max possible, and copied that from the Gem oem.
We can throttle back acceleration and torque maps to get drivability we want.
That is something to ask your guy, as Iām not sure exactly how it works.
Some dld files use actual torque maps to set torque versus rpm.
Our dld has slip maps and graphs slip versus rpm. Not sure if it works similar.
I believe this also allows our overspeed by dropping off torque at high rpms. Necessary to keep in the motor hp limits.
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Missed that.
The two contactor voltages in tree? Something else? Was not aware that the pwm voltage could be disabled.
Not the written in voltages, thereās a coil voltage output enable and a coil voltage stepdown enable (might not be the right terminology, but you get the idea), both were disabled. I will take screenshots and show you where to change them. What I understand is that the voltages written in are not output unless these two fields are turned on if that makes sense
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Yes, make perfect sense. I had no idea that I was messing up 48v coils.
That would explain why Grant burned his up using my dcf. @grantwest sorry!
Also why they seem to run hot when should be at 29v.
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Iām pretty sure the DVT File that I saved have the contractor voltage at the higher voltages.
I donāt think the stock contractor likes 72v running threw it. Yes it gets hot
Interesting, I didnāt blow my Contactor yet but I would like to check this. Can you post an screenshot ?
@djgabriel2004 - Just for fun and so you can sleep at night, can you clip your DVM onto your contactor coil and see what is being fed to it?
Okay, in DVT, go to tree, vehicle master applications, battery application (protection and contactor), contactor voltages and verify your screen looks like mine:
Then, go to tree, vehicle master applications, battery application (protection and contactor), Contactor Control Enables, and turn on Line Contactor:
Then, go to tree, vehicle master applications, battery application (protection and contactor), contactor hold enables, and turn on line contactor:
Now your contactor settings are correct.
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Thanks for posting the settings!
Interesting data from my hill run to pick up the kids
Before the run
The run
After
If Iām doing the math right. used 79.5 - 76.9 = 2.6v. went 9.2 miles in hills. 9.2/2.6 = 3.54 miles per volt.
80v-60v = 20v capacity * 3.54 = 70 mile range pack with hills?
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Donāt count on volts being a linear representation of capacity. It may be close enough, donāt know.
Better to monitor ah or kWh per mile and use the know battery capacity.
You should have that data on bms.
Could also check like mpg. Make a run after charging and see what it takes to fill the tank when you get home. Small losses in healthy lithium batteries.
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should have mentioned tooā¦ no faults on this run. Iām going to try the shielding but probably not until next weekend. Think @MaxAtMaxMarine may have nailed this one.
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i just checked my File, This was OFF
and this was ON
I went searching for the top end again on my trip to the grocery store. Iām finding that Iām erroring out around 38 mph. Throttle position doesnāt seem to matter e.g. if I punch it anywhere below 38 no problem. If I ease into 38+ at 90% throttle, error.
I donāt really need to be going faster than 38 so itās fine for now. Iāll try to insulate the throttle wiring and see where that lands me.
I leave that off on mine as I thought it allowed faults to open contactor. Something I do not want.
As your car runs and activates contactor, it can be a contactor enable. I believe it to be a ācontrolā enable.
The hold enable I donāt know. Never disabled it to see if it went full voltage hold. I have my doubts of about a need for that function. But who knows. Like everything Sevcon it needs testing.
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Dave is the one that put the throttle bug in my head and it makes perfect sense. Seemingly random errors are being created because each of us has routed motor wires and throttle wires slightly differently. Proof is in the pudding - so far, no errors for me but we will see soon as I plan on putting some time on her this weekend.
As for contactor stuff, the coil leads are very easily accessible and it would be easy to hit it with a multimeter to see what those settings in DVT do to coil voltages. Iām happy to do that testing.
Thank you. It takes me about 15 minutes to set one up and do the testing. But there are 1,000 other things waiting for the same 15 minutes.
Plus it takes my old brain 2 hours to get on line with new things. 
A few thoughts.
The two pins to the coil are pwm outputs, and may not read correctly with all dc meters.
One pin is just B+, however it is best to use it for internal coil suppression. We have used one pin alone and it does work.
Output is mapped in the last setting on io map screen.
Two other outputs are available. We have not verified a different output can be used in the event of an internal driver failure.
One is often used as an led driver for remote indicator.
Would there be a top end / rpm config difference between the 5kw and 8kw motors? The controller Iām currently running was repurposed out of my 2000 which we had a 5kw motor in.
I need to diff the 2 controller files. One for my neighbors from Dave and the modified one from Mike (current config and controller)