We spoke about that remember I suggested to use shielded cables for the thottle pedal.
In my case the error went away when I fine tuned the throttle values and some cable management.
I couldn’t replicate the error after that but definitely a small noise will spike the values and it will error
I remembered the throttle tweaking but forgot about your shielding suggestion.
It looks like you nailed it. Max is going to try ferrite noise suppression.
My thought was adding some bypass caps from throttle inputs to B- on controller.
I can share my file when I get home and see if it keeps giving them errors with the wiring as is. Returning in 5 days
I think the interference assumption is probably it - I am going to bring some stuff home tomorrow (ferrites, shielding, etc). I hit 46.2 and made several passes around 45mph on one of the main roads here in town on Friday evening and couldn’t replicate the issue once I moved the throttle leads going into the Sevcon.
Saturday afternoon, I lost the contactor at home so I couldn’t keep testing - found an equivalent for $40 delivered next day.
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Cable management made me fry the BMC, at least you blew a cheaper thing!
I might ask for your file and test it in mine, I kinda dislike the idea of having half pedal dead.
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Some of the files you’re testing are 72v coil, I gather.
Depending on replacement set 48v coil to 48v and 29 holding.
Dang, should have given you a heads up.
I lost several throttles powering them from the 5v encoder supply. Then I load a new file with 10v encoder and poof, another $100 down the drain.
ps.
We need 10v encoder supply for good clean signal at 9,000 rpm.
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I haven’t used the other files yet, I’m using a slightly modified version of the original, I confirmed that my coil out voltage is 48v with a multimeter. Thanks for the heads up though!
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Ok, so lost contactor, means the contacts?
From tripping no doubt. There are better, but nothing can take too many trips at 80vdc.
Took the GEM for a 15 mile ride yesterday. Did awesome going up and down my long hills. I errored out once but didn’t have the laptop hooked up to see the code. Just cycled the key and kept going.
This evening, I was going to take the GEM to pick the kids up from school… Dead. nothing at the key switch. Checked the AUX battery and it was down to 6v. It’s the original battery so very well possible it went bad. I picked up another battery, hooked it up and all is working. Is there any way to test and make sure the aux battery is actually getting charged?
Key off - it’s about 12.15V
Key on - drops to 11.91V.
Did a little more scouring the manual. On the 2016, aux battery is charged through the dc to DC converter via the DC to DC relay. Relay is there in the fuse box. I’d think the voltage would go up when the key switch was turned on. Got me. Thoughts?
@MaxAtMaxMarine any luck with the interference issue?
My normal directions do not disconnect anything that would disconnect the aux battery from the dc-dc converter.
Not all converters are rated as battery chargers, but any converter will keep it over 12v.
All the relays except “controller” are still ruled by vcm.
Yes, voltage should rise. Maybe dc converter is bad.
Any chance the relay failed?
I have the second converter for Steve’s car, I could swap them
Everything points at wire management. The throttle control voltages may not be as low impedance as I thought.
There are many ways to protect the throttle outputs from noise, but may take some trial and error.
Gabe used shielding, I believe. Max found a big improvement just by keeping the throttle wires away from any power cables. If they are long enough, tying them to a frame member is a good idea.
Max is thinking ferrite devices.
Adding bypass caps or resistors from throttle to B- might be helpful. Hopefully Max can monitor throttle noise and at least determine if it’s noise.
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They are used from the same source. Could be all bad. Unlikely, unless seller is a crook and selling his failed parts. I doubt anyone could collect that many bad parts, and I assume they are from a fleet upgrade.
See if there is 72v at input.
I need to study the relay circuit. Switched 72v or 12v?
Let me double check my enable tap. Maybe I did the same bonehead move with the key switch and didn’t get the space connector in. I’ll check that and swap the convertor too. Agree the odds of 2 bad converters is low.
Will report back
sigh going to confess my sins and come clean… spade connector in the tap. Just like the key switch. Wasn’t getting power to enable on the DC to DC converter. I feel like a dummy…
This…
Vs this
Spade was on the side I couldn’t see.
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Hi I’m just arrived home and I’m catching up.
@Erniea15 I think you figured that out but just in case I just measured mine:
Aux battery Terminal
12.36v with ignition off
13.31v with ignition on.
Original battery from 2016 (it might be about to die soon)
@Inwo I haven’t added insulated wiring I just put them away from the phase cables. However I want to try that because it will look cleaner.
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That’s basically what I got when I figured out the converter enable problem. Thank you for confirming!
I wonder if they make conductive split loom tubing. I have a bunch of harnesses made up already.
I could wrap with foil and put next size bigger over the top. Better yet, pull out of the loom, wrap it and put it back. Connect a bare drain under the foil, and wire to b-, running as far as the fire wall. Shields only connect on one end.
Only thing is, I can’t test it right now.
@Erniea15 might be able to test it in his friend GEM
I can test it in mine too but I don’t have an ETA yet, I have some projects to finish before starting to mess with the Gem again
We talking swapping harnesses? I can do that.
Holding off on Steve’s until we iron out this last piece. Then the goal is to see if I can knock it out in a weekend.