Same menu - “Send DCF to Unit”
FWIW - I alway put the controller in “PreOperation” mode before making any changes. Then put it back in “Operational” mode. Don’t forget the “Operational” part or the controller will not work. Done that a couple times.
I know it’s been posted before but for now I am just using one of these placed on top of my center glovebox lid.
It would be awesome if it allows to hook up the Traction battery to monitor its voltage.
Recommend the ant bms lcd for battery and speed.
It’s low tech looking, but small, panel mount, and <$50 alone. <$150 full bms.
I’m actually using an Android unit with torque app Getting Data from sevcon thru the can Translator and speed from GPS.
My bms also has canbus so I’m getting SOC from it.
But I still want to get the stock speedometer to work.
Anyways This is going of topic I’ll post some updates in the other thread
are you selling these? I was poking around Ebay and the high-power LCD ones are all out of stock.
Did you mention something about a super-charger option for the Telsa battery. I forget the details… or was that something i couldn’t do with 20s
If @Inwo does not have any displays I have two or three laying around.
I was thinking for my ezgo project… Also, maybe converting my buddies over that are on chargery v4. They are running into an issue where they have to manually reboot to get charge enable to activate.
You have one on the Tesla, do you not?
@Inwo - are you asking me? I had one on my Tesla battery but it could not keep up with my cells kept overheating, then cells would drop out for no reason so I took the BMS out.
I have two or three of the displays around, all my BMS’s are junk…
I need to find a 25s active balancer or kill a cell out of my Tesla batt. and make it a 24S (damn I hate to do that)
If that was to me… yeah, I have the display
Bought this case for it… See if it’s any good
I have more that should work with ant bms.
Don’t buy any though. @LithiumGods is overstocked.
We both prefer the jk now, except the LCD is soooo nice.
I know it’s messy, but connect ant 32s bms and turn balance off. Then connect two small jk balance only in cascade. Ie. Overlap several cells and it will balance across the whole string. I have not found active balance better than jk and I’ve tried most all.
I just messed with DVT for the first time. In looking at the DCF that Ernie and I have, I noticed all of the motor parameters are off, so I changed them to correct them to nameplate information, and I noticed that the throttle values were a little high compared to what I was seeing on the I/O analog monitor (these values will probably be different GEM to GEM). I’m e-mailing Dave the DCF. I drove mine around the neighborhood in the dark and I don’t know if it was psychosomatic but the car felt peppier.
In my case, the DCF I was using seemed a little sluggish off the line, required a lot of pedal to get moving, and I had very intermittent power loss during regen only (like once every 50 times) which was corrected by going neutral and back to forward. Hoping the issues were related to motor parameters being off.
I’m e-mailing Dave my file, if anyone wants it, they are welcome to try it out. These are the changes I’ve made:
I have a 25s Daly bms that I quickly replaced thinking it was fried when I was driving and starting to rain.
Do You wanna try it? I think I have a screen too
I don’t believe that nameplate values affect performance. I understand them to be “remarks” in the program. Although some calculations might be done from it when setting certain screens.
Such as the v/f calc.
The throttle setting are more complicated than setting them to actual. In fact it will almost certainly cause throttle faults.
If either throttle voltage were to reach the high set point it will fault.
The low end is more forgiving and I suggested setting throttle start well below actual to remove dead band. I don’t know if it worked.
The most important is to maintain the exact ratio of thr#1 to thr#2 top and bottom.
These voltages move the throttle “value” of both throttles 0-1.
0 being no torque and 1 being full torque.
If these throttle values differ, any where, more than a set percent throttle will fault. I believe it’s default of 10%.
Polaris throttles seem to be 2:1 ratio. Close enough to use without further math.
All imho.
Ps.
You may be on the hairy edge of wot fault.
I’m not sure how the Sevcon controller works but being a 3 phase motor, at the very least, I would imagine the frequency that’s programmed into the nameplate data section is used - it would be interesting though to try setting the frequency to a very out-of-normal number to see if an error happens, although I would be afraid of damaging something - even just a difference of 50 vs 60 hz can cause issues.
As for the throttle values, 2:1 is what I observed. In off-line mode, I monitored throttle voltages with no pedal and went .1v higher than the highest spike. I then did the same at WOT and went .1v lower than the lowest spike. I haven’t put more than a mile of hard driving on this setup, but in essence, to me, this means that at all times, my throttle voltages will be within the ranges set, I’ll let you know if I error out.
That seems correct. It may be that the Polaris throttle setting are worse case, and may be better linearity using actual values. As the are regulated electronic throttles .1v should be fine.
On the low end Ernie wants less dead band. Mine is the same. Do you seem to have excessive travel before moving? I just got used to it.
I did have excessive travel before moving and this seems to correct that. Also, the way I’m looking at it, the previous DCF throttle end values are higher than the analog values coming through the monitor when the pedal is all the way down. This would translate into “missing out” on the upper end of the power output of the controller.
Numbers are not actual but for conversation’s sake - If your upper values are set to 2.25/4.5 and when the pedal is to the floor, it’s sending 2.15/4.3 to the controller, than there’s still .1/.2 that you’re not using. It remains to be seen if I error it out, I’ll be sure to keep my programming stuff handy when I’m road testing to be sure.
May very well be. It seems the other motor entries would have more effect.
I like were you are going. I thought of making similar tests to look for the result, but it becomes a time sink for one person.
The driving profile can be changed on the fly and most settings are intuitive. Maybe not neutral breaking which sets pedal-up regen. You can watch it in the bms app. Be careful, a high setting can skid the tires. 
You may want to map two more profiles. They are then selected active low from digital inputs.
Analog inputs are available for braking and regen. I think most gems have an aux brake switch that can be mapped for high regen when first touching the pedal. Save wear and tear on mechanical brakes.
Totaly agree, but my experience is that it is very minor. Your examples are volts. The actual “value” is always 0-1 and is monitored when logging. My settings always seem to reach “1” throttle value while driving.
I’m still waiting for a report from Ernie that he has no more regen shutdowns.
Getting dcf direct from @Grant or @MikeKC should fix your issue. They do not have the problem.
At this time, I don’t understand were the error was introduced in the garnt dcf given to me and installed in your controller.
