Everything acts normal until I press the gas pedal and get a code 05. No clunk sound from the clunk sound maker. Hot battery leads at the PTSDM read 79-80v. Where should I start diagnostics? How to check the go-pedal potentiometer?
It’s this style:
Stick a pin in p3 wire insulation at controller. Should be over 2.4v. Goes to zero volts when pedal is pressed.
Hall effect throttles rarely fail. Unplug and reseat controller and throttle plugs.
Ok I’ll check those soon. Thanks.
What has happened to this car recently that made it stop running?
Have you been installing any accessories?
Moving any wires around?
As Inwo has pointed out, Remove and inspect the Main Harness 23 pin plug on top of your controller (special attention to Pin3), Reinstall and give it an extra push to make sure it is firmly seated. Try pedal press again.
Ok I’ll try these ideas soon. I’m traveling now.
This could be it because I just reinstalled the controller I thought it was malfunctioning so I sent it in but it tested good.
The first problem was flashing dash after New batts. New delta q. This was after it broke down on the road for the first time with my wife towed it home. In retrospect I should have pushed on the fuse because after reinstating the controller the dash was still flashing. Trying all options I pressed the fuse in harder and it fixed everything. But then first time ever 05 code.
So probably need to reseat the controller plug. Hopefully.
I tested pin 3 at the controller. In the pic it shows 18v. No noticeable drop with the pedal pushed in.
Bad accelerator?
Pin 3
Not a valid test. Must test from B-.
Is that from a battery? I tested from the - 72v pole on the psdm and get less than a volt. .15v and .20v pedal down.
You might not have pinned into the wire enough.
Measure against B-.
If you are working inside the cab the most convenient point would be The PSDM (as you noted).
If you are working up front (under the hood) they you have a B- right on top of the controller.
Try this test again. As per Inwo’s instructions:
→ Stick a pin in p3 wire insulation at controller.
- Should be over 2.4v when pedal up.
- Then press pedal down a bit and it should go to near 0v.
I’m getting no voltage on pin 3. If I set it to test 2v I can get .15 and it goes up to .2 with the pedal depressed. Consistently.
For what it’s worth I’m getting:
77.8v across the psdm
13v from wiper motor fuse
The accelerator plug has top to bottom: 4.8v, 0v, 5v, 5v, 0v, 4.8v
I just noticed when I turn the key on it flashed 11. But it doesn’t repeat that.
Everything else seems to be acting normally
Things I did this summer were: New batteries, new delta q, ride4fun motor. tested controller is good. The car ran after the new batteries and motor, but broke down one day on the road. I did the state of charge reset after charging and it ran but then broke down again. That’s when I tested the controller. Reinstalled and now code 05
Disconnect pedal and test that P3 wire at the controller again.
broke down
Expand on this a bit more. Do you remember code when it stopped? Same thing every time?
When you tested the controller, what was your reason for sending it in?
Everything on the dash was flashing last time when it broke down. I sent the controller off then. Got it back and same thing. By chance I pushed the main fuse in and it fixed it. Just a bad connection I suppose on the fuse holder.
I’ll test the 3 pin with pedal unplugged when I get home.
Oh, right. Don’t confuse these two issues. You mentioned it again like it was signficant to what is going on today.
It is also why I ask so many questions and try to properly diagnose properly, rather than simply sending this off for repair.
Did thy charge you for this “repair”?
Pedal disconnected now pin 3 shows 4.8v.
I paid for the diagnostic and shipping.
Pin 9 has 5v unplugged, plugged and plugged with the pedal down.
All correct.
The middle 4 pins are 5v regulated supply to hall throttle. Be aware that they are sensitive to mis-connections and over-volts.
The end two go to p3 and p7 of controller. P3 is switch that goes to near zero throughout full range of throttle. p7 is throttle (pot) .5v idle to near 4v wot.
These can be tested sans controller. But, it is difficult to test without cutting p3 and p7, or unpinning them from controller.
I hope Byron checks my work. 
Just thought of something. We recently found a t5 controller, your model, that was actually a t4. This caused the 5v supply, middle 4 pins, to drop to 2.5v when throttle was plugged in. A t4 does not have a stiff enough 5v supply to run a hall throttle.
A one in a million, yet, client just got the t5 controller back from fsip.
Byron?
So is my pedal sensor not going to 0? Pedal plug unplugged I am getting 4.7v on pin 3, but plugged in I get near 0 with no pedal pressure.
I’m going try testing pin 3 while unplugging then plugging in the pedal plug all with no pedal pressure.
I got my same controller back because I wrote my name on it.
Even tho this happened 2 weeks ago- I didn’t even consider this as a possibility!!!
Even tho this was a return (of his own controller) Is it possible they swapped it in accident?
@DanielE - Where did you send it for testing?
Did you get the same controller back? (or was it exchanged?)
What was the official word on the repair/check?
Do the same test but meter the V on Pin 9 at the controller.
What is V with pedal unplugged,
Then again when pedal plugged in.
I agree. Long shot, but possibly the start of something big.
Was the other t5/t4 fiasco a swap?
While checking pin 3 with the pedal unplugged I’m seeing 4.7v. Plugging the pedal in it drops to less than 1v.
Pin 9 has 5v unplugged, plugged and plugged with the pedal down.
I got my same controller back. I wrote my name and number on it. Unless this is just a cover and internals can be swapped.
I sent the controller to ride4fun in NC to be tested.