2010 gem drives short distance and dies

Trying to figure this cart out. Bought it with no batteries and with no history. After putting new batteries in it and connecting some disconnected wires it ran across the parking lot to about 12 mph. When I turned around it went another 10 feet and died. I went through the service manual and came up to the controller being bad. Had that rebuilt, put it in and get to 12mph and died again. The manual is saying psdm is bad from the j4 pin c to ground test.

What it does is it dies but the main contractor stays engaged just won’t move on it’s own. The batteries are fully charged but the battery gauge on the display shows them down at the first bar and not full. Anyone have any insights into this? Thank you in advance for any help

Check total battery voltage to be sure they are connected correctly.

I agree. Let us know what the carts voltage is at the controller. I’m Sure if you have enough where with all to figure out the controller is / was bad then you know how to hook a new set of battery’s up correctly but just to be sure let’s stay with the basics.

Reading 74.3 at the psdm main posts

And that’s at full charge.
What’s the voltage when the car starts acting uo

A fully chargerd FLA gem car should be at least 76 volts. So when you stab the gas the voltage should drop, I think low voltage cut off is around 60 volts. The weeker your battery’s the quicker they will fall off and give you a -15 code

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I have it on charge again after seeing the 74v. When it acts up, I don’t get a code and the voltage stays high enough to keep the main contractor engaged. Not sure if the number reading but if the voltage dropped off too far wouldn’t the solenoid break contact?

Hi
if you have full battery gauge after this charge
it can be problem with your throttle pedal
then car stops,will it work little again after some ours ?

When you say it came with no batteries and you put in “new batteries”, are those brand new from a store or are these new used batteries? Fully charged lead acid batteries should hold 12.6V-12.7V measured an hour after charge is complete and it should hold that voltage for a very long time. The 12.3V you stated is almost empty with 12.2V being as low as you really want to go unless they are REALLY good deep cycle batteries. Oh, and you put in Deep Cycle batteries and not regular car batteries or even hybrid batteries, correct?

Brand new off a fresh pallet t1275 Trojan’s. The battery gauge never reads above the 1 red bar on the gauge. Just took it off charge and checked with another meter to see that my meter is off by a full volt. The cart will move again a few feet if you let it sit 30 minutes or so

Seems like classic accelerator pedal issue. Search that here, symptoms match perfectly. Check inwo for his affordable fix. Your voltage is very suspect for new batteries at full charge though.

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Thanks everyone for your help. The throttle is hosed.

Do you need help fixing it?

I would if you wouldn’t mind. It’s a slow go with my lack of free time. The one trace was burned but got it all cleaned up. Resistance reads 3m not 3k. I saw the one thread you had the repair in but when I looked again I couldn’t find it

Is it the pot or the switch that’s bad?
The switch is at the end of the arm. One brush rests on a trace separate from the rest.
It is a simple fix for the switch. If it’s the pot, replace complete assembly with a Saturn. Add external switch.

This thread shows what I’m working on.

To replace in its entirety, the pedal from gem needs to be bolted to the new Saturn pot-box.
Electrically it should plug right in.
As the Saturn has no switch, I made an external one. Loosen one bolt to install.
My hope is that some failures are switch section only.
My tester can show that without removing throttle.

It’s the pot. What year/model Saturn do you use?

Don’t jump right in until you study this. It’s in the testing stages.

Foreground is your Gem pedal. It needs to be mounted to the new Saturn pot-box as shown.
This takes some mechanical prowess.
image

As the Saturn does not have a switch, I made an adaptor cable to add one external.

If you decide that you’re up for the challenge, a $100 deposit will get you my switch and cable. Return it for any reason.

All you are risking is the cheap Saturn switch. If there are issues, I’ll help you through them. Or if not worth you trouble, just return it.

Would you prefer a Bolt in solution?
I have some extra new throttles for testing.

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Sorry, work has been nuts lately. From the parts you’ve made about it the Saturn box looks like the way to go. The project is on standby right now with everything else going on (work, personal vehicle repairs, and all) but I’ll let you know in the next few days. Thanks for all of the work you’re doing on this