It seems if it’s not one thing then it is another. It was hot yesterday( 85 at the coast is hot ) and instead of waiting until the evening to charge, I decided to give a charge during the day and when I went to unplug it in the early evening there was no green dash LED showing and no fan sounds.
Today i verified 120VAC on the plug, 120VAC on the socket lugs and wires seemed tight. I measured 84VDC on the Zivan terminals and reseated all plugs.
This afternoon I will pull the charge socket and directly check the 120VAC input and if A-OK then I will remove the Zivan and open it up to see if the internal fuse is still good.
I have the Zivan out(!##@@ bottom two bolts!) and the large white 500V/16A fuse is ok.
The fuse at the AC input appears to be open but I can’t get it out yet. It’s open from L lug to the exposed top end of the fuse.
UPDATE: first(AC input) fuse is blown. It’s a small 500V/16A fuse pn 7006563
Looking for specs and replacement part.
dimensions: 6.3mm x 32.0mm
possibly slow-blow/time lag as this part/number is very close:
SIBA Ceramic Tube Time-Lag Cylindrical Fuse 7006565 16A T16A H500V
UPDATE:
The Line in lug looks oxidized and the bottom of the fuse holder also oxidized. I suspect this was a point of heating when charging and I normally charge in the evening except for the other day when it was 85 degF outside and I went for a top-off. The heat from oxization and heat from charge current probably combined to open the fuse. I found some of the plastic holder inside the fuse holder melted to the bottom of the fuse.
There is also lots of oxidization on the circuit board but all circuit traces look in-tact. Rust on the resistors in the heatsink tunnel look interesting and might cause a failure at some point.
While I believe I can clean these oxidization points and get back to charging, I’m wondering what would be returned if it were sent in for rebuilding. ie do they replace the PCA(circuit assembly) or do they just give a good cleaning, retin and ship it back with firmware updates. It could fail from something else than a hot fuse and if it does, will it cause the lithium batteries to be destroyed. Having a BMS with AC power cut-off capabilities are probably a good idea…
I removed the fuse holder and hacked on a temporary fuse holder( 15A automotive type fuse ) and the charger still works. The fuse holder also deformed at the bottom so it had to be pulled to test.
