2002 E825 Zivan NG1 settings


I bought this vehicle 3 months ago with no batteries. It had previously been running Hella Endurant MDC27/105 flooded batteries (105AHr). I was advised to replace with the same. I have been running the vehicle successfully until now, but have just noticed the batteries not returning to full charge, (80%).

Spent a long time reading this forum and various other posts, and now not sure I have selected correct batteries.

I have checked the Zivan NG1 setting, this was set to C, Gel, which appears to be incorrect.

There is no sticker saying the micro has been updated.

I will be changing the setting to E or F , but am sure of which one?

Could someone advise me on which setting I should use.

Feedback on the long term life of the batteries would be appreciated and whether they have had any life reduced by being charged at the reduced Gel setting.

The settings available are:

C : Gel 1.35A
D : AGM 2.1A

The battery literature states;

[I]The Hella Endurant CycleMaster is a flooded technology battery specifically designed to withstand the demand of deep discharges and slow recharges. The internal construction includes glass mat and dual insulation deep pocket envelope separators; which protect all sides of the plate to prevent internal shorts. High density oxide increases cycling capacity, providing reliable power. [/I]

Does this mean they are AGM as they mention glass Mat in the constuction?

Any thoughts would be appreciated, and thanks for taking the time to read and response in advance


I did the same thing because I couldnt change the setting on a DQ charger. I bought a new charger and set it on Flooded.

My batteries did the same thing yours did. I took them back to Batteries Plus and they put them on their “Reconditioning” charger for a week. They came back up but not to 100%

I would recommend size 31 for your next change out. I check water levels every 6 weeks. I put on about 200 miles a month.

Heres a little info:

Zivan charger:

These chargers were put in cars in several configurations. On the top of some of the chargers near the round connector there is a cover that reveals a rotary switch with a letter showing. If the charger has this switch then the letter corresponds with a charge profile.

It will be: C: Gel 1.35A D: AGM 2.1A E: Trojan 2.6A F: Trojan 4.5A The stock setting for flooded is E. The F setting is for larger batteries. If you have an unmodified charger you can use F for an occasional equalization charge.

Stock setting for Gel is C. (The F setting was added because Trojan engineers weren’t happy about the original setting, they felt it was too conservative. Sometimes, if a customer is having undercharge issues the GEM techs will recommend the F setting.)


Thanks for the reply and info. I wish I had checked the charger settings before using with my new Batts.

I will set the charger to E.

can you see any benefit in setting it to F for a one of charge, as it appears I have been undercharging them in the last couple of months.



If the batteries don’t charge up fully on E get them Warranted. You have a 2 year warranty on them. Don’t mention under charging. If they don’t come up on E you might try a shot on F but make sure they don’t overheat.

Observe them during charging to see if they bubble,. they need do this to keep the fluid from stratifying. Check each cell with a hydrometer a couple of hours after charging.

Your dealer may have a Reconditioning charger that supposedly removes sulphation and brings them back. My dealer had them a week to do this process. I have been sceptical of this process but it seemed to work on the last cart I had.

I f you stay with the Marine MDC quality I would suggest you get a set of East Penn 31MDC. These are sold under various names from many outlets. I bought my 3rd set from ORilley Auto Parts for $620 a couple of months ago. This was a hundred bucks less than Batteries Plus,


Have just run a charge at the higher current F setting.
Monitored temperature of batteries regularly and everything stayed cool.

Checked the 6 batteries at the end of the charge cycle;


The volts are all fairly close , 80mV between max and min, though I expected higher voltages on a freshly charged set of batteries.

I will check the charger voltages against the curve next time I charge,

I understand there is a volt adj pot within the charger? so may look at increasing the voltage output level if its too low.

I am also thinking of getting a single charger and charging each batt seperately, though with the batts seeming to take an even charge is there any point?

I live fairly remotely and to send all batts in to get reconditioned, would be a major undertaking. I may look at investing in a reconditioner and try it on one of the batts

What are your thoughts on the voltages I am getting, and next steps in the battle to rescue these almost new batts?

thanks for your help and wisdom


If those readings were done a couple of hours after charging it sound good.

The true test is to check Specific Gravity a couple hours after charging. 1265 up and your in good shape.