I was getting lots of -11 codes and yesterday flushed out that an easy whack of the contactor would trigger the -11 code. I took the top off, filed down the plate with 2 contact points then disassembled further and filed down the other contacts. This worked well for the short test I did but today I made a trip a few blocks and still got a few -11 codes…
Has anyone rebuilt or cleaned up a contactor successfully?
One thing I didn’t do was file the points down completely flat and only got maybe 50% of the area flat by sliding the points in pairs across a big file. Should these contact points be flat across most of the diameter?
Thirdly, I was wondering if a bit of wear on the central bushing might be worn enough to allow slight wiggling/slipping of the moving plate over bumps. Remember, this is a 2002 so the suspension is a bit rough.
-11 is start switch closed. Meaning part throttle. Mat under the pedal, mis-adjusted switch,etc.
I’m not aware of contactor causing -11. Anything is possible.
I wonder if the shock is transmitted to other wiring.
High current contacts are generally silver plated. Oxide is conductive, and pit marks are from normal weld breaking. Curved surface helps self cleaning. Loose armature is ok.
Correct and I went down there to the throttle first thing without any luck or change. ie replaced switch, cleaned connectors. But I think what’s going on is the contactor is momentarily opening while I’m driving so when it closes back again, I have my foot still on the throttle and the restarting controller does not see the throttle switch in the correct start position.
I validated this by putting the brakes on and stepping on the throttle pedal slightly and then I whacked the contactor with my hand and that resulted in a -11 code. I tried wiggling wiring while driving and was not able to reproduce the -11 but first whack on the contactor did it.
So I should not be filing it into flat spots. doh… I’ll try sanding into a bit more rounded shape using a high grit number and see how it goes.
UPDATE: Looks to be the green(72/ground) and white(72V source) wires to the DC Converter.
story: I left on vaca for a few weeks and then tried to take the 2002 e825 GEM out for a spin but could hardly get out of the driveway without a dozen -11 codes being thrown. Took the dash off and as before, I applied the brake and a little throttle then smacked the contactor with the rubber handle of my screw driver but no -11 code. Smacked the lower right dash compartment and got a -11 code. Repeated and same results. Started testing by touching converter wires while motor was loaded and got -11 codes with slight pressure on the green and white wires which are under a little strain on the far right side of the converter. The strain is from the heavy wire-harness loop between the converter and the controller as it’s not supported anywhere in the middle of the dash/firewall.
I tried to remove the connector(P1/P2) but couldn’t so I just wiggled the connector and wires a little and retested. I could not trigger the -11 any more.
Drove for 2 miles on semi bumpy roads and no -11 codes. The wire harness loop touches the firewall so I placed a 1"x2" block of wood between the two and relieved strain on the controller connector and the converter wires.
