Good afternoon,
Working on boss’s 2000 E285 - swapped in lithium battery pack and quickcharger from ride4fun and now having some odd electrical issues.
Power on the cart and the normal startup happens and then will shut off after about 3 or 4 seconds. If I turn the lights on or hold the brake pedal, it will stay on. Lights / horn just barely work, but cart drives just fine.
Cart has the updated 72 to 12 converter.
Any ideas?
Was this car working before the battery swap?
R4F is not helping you with this install?
Is the Updated DC Converter a factory applied update?
-or -
Also from R4F?
Power on the cart and the normal startup happens and then will shut off after about 3 or 4 seconds.
This sounds normal.
If I turn the lights on or hold the brake pedal, it will stay on. Lights / horn just barely work, but cart drives just fine.
Clarify-> What is status of KeySwitch?
Yes.
I have talked with them - he was also confused by this.
Yes, I believe it is. It has been on since before we acquired the cart, so not sure who did the install. It is a bit sloppy / full of splice connectors.
By shut off I mean that it opens contactor, cycles through the display, shuts off screen, and then parking brake alarm starts sounding.
KeyOFF - Nothing except parking brake alarm if the brake is not on.
KeyON - Cycles through hour count / error 04 - shuts off after a few seconds. No contactor.
KeyON and headlight switch on - Display settles on speed / battery, contactor clunks.
not sure who did the install. It is a bit sloppy / full of splice connectors.
Can you post a few pics?
Do you have a meter?
Check this:
Conditions- MainSwON, KeyOFF, HandbrakeUP(applied)
Verify you see the dash warmup/Boot/charge sequence. (then it goes out)
Meter across the POS (+72) and NEG (-72) on top of the controller.
(Expect B+/Pack voltage)
What do you get?
K- locate the controller relay. It is that strange looking thing that is hanging behind the wad of wires in your pic.
Verify Y/N?
I will check tomorrow morning when I get back in the office.
thanks!
White and Gray pulled from relay and connected.
Display stays on showing -04.
OK- Perfect.
You can put those wires back.
The other two wires are Grn and Bk.
Meter across both of these should be 0v when KeyOFF,
and 12v KeyON.
Verify Y/N? (and make sure it remains stable as long as keyON - Does not disappear in a few seconds.)
If No/not stable, → Check/meter green wire and ref ChassGnd.
KeyOff and KeyON both 0 across black and green.
Same with green to chassis ground.
Ok.
Follow that green wire.
(don’t just go look for a green wire in another location under the dash and assume it the subject (It is important to ACTUALLY follow it).
Reason: There are many green wires running around and they do different things. It is real easy to mix them up and grab the wrong wire.
Leaving the Controller relay-
The next stop is going to be the accessory timer/relay.
The square thing that looks like this:
===
The timer has four wires.
This Green, Black, Orange, and Blue.
Look/meter for +12v on the Orange wire (ref ChassGnd).
Verify(Y/N?)
Then Look/meter for +12v on the Orange wire (ref Black wire)
Slide the wire off the tab just a little bit so you can probe the post.
Verify(Y/N?)
===
The Green wire then jumps over to the interlock connection at the charger.
Verify (Y/N?)
Show me a pic of that cluster of wires/connections.
Try this:
Conditions:KeyOFF, MainBattSwON (Verify boot sequence), [quote=“AssyRequired, post:4, topic:30657”]
HandbrakeUP(applied)
Verify you see the dash warmup/Boot/charge sequence. (then it goes out)
Relay clicked when I was moving wiring harness - tracked down to loose plug in to dc 72 to 12 converter.
Plugged this all the way in and now getting
Blk / green - 0 KeyOff 27v KeyOn.
Similar result green to ground. 0 / 27.
Apologies, My previous post was subject of a bad copy/paste and very difficult to follow due to misc page markup crap that was inserted. I cut it all out and you should go back up and redo the suggested voltage checks across the following pairs:
Green ↔ Black wires,
Org ↔ Black wires.
Then follow the green wire over to the charger, unplug the green wire off the charger. (I think you have that on the wrong charger wire).
Blk / green - 0 KeyOff 27v KeyOn.
Similar result green to ground. 0 / 27.
Orange to ground 13v.
Orange to black 13v.
That green wire then is spliced into B- on controller unit. (not my work)
Only wires going into charger:
red/grn wire cut from plug and connected to white charger wire.
blk / purple wire from plug (spliced into speaker wire, and then spliced into green wire that goes into DC converter 12 pin plug) to black charger wire.
That green wire then is spliced into B- on controller unit. (not my work)
Right here is the begin of the mayhem.
*** Remove this before you cook something! ***
The person that did the DC Converter swap did not finish the wiring. This is the old location, but not compatible with the new.
→ This green wire needs 12v from KeySwitch
(We need to find it…)
red/grn wire cut from plug and connected to white charger wire.
This R/Grn wire should be it.
→ Meter that wire (ref ChassGnd) and verify you get 12v Switched at KeyON event.
I think the white wire might be the input for your charger interlock.
Look for another wire coming out of your charger.
blk / purple wire from plug (spliced into speaker wire, and then spliced into green wire that goes into DC converter 12 pin plug) to black charger wire.
Disconnect this Blk/pur → Speaker wire → Green wire also.
I need to study the state of mind of the previous wiring genius that did this. (perhaps isolate exactly what breed of ganji he was smoking)
You should be left with a black wire exiting from the charger. Verify this wire has 12v switched with KeyON event.
Also note that this wire should NOT have Switched KeyON power if charger plugged into wall power.
This should be the interlock output wire
Proper connections will disable the ability of the car to drive away when the charge cord is plugged in.
Follow?
If YES to seeing the 12v Key power on the interlock wire, then connect the green wire (from the timer relay) to the interlock wire and check the key again.
KeyON (charger cord unplugged from wall) should power up the dash display and car should drive.
Verify (Y/N?)
With that green wire splice removed from B- I am now getting 0 from the previous readings.
Orange to ground / black
green to black, green to ground all getting 0v with key on or off.
R/Grn to ground - 0v key on or off.
0v from black charger wire.
With that green wire splice removed from B- I am now getting 0 from the previous readings.
This is why I mentioned earlier (post 11) that the green wires can be tricky.
Make SURE you are following the Correct Green wire from the Timer relay as it goes over to the other side of the car.
Do this both directions.
The Gen1 cars were HORRIBLE at following wire color consistency. Just because you have a wire on one side of the car, It does not mean you see the same over on the other side.
Green wire is sometimes used for +12vdc, or it is sometimes used for B- !!! Two very different sources.
The green wire was coming directly from the timer to b-, not tied in the wiring harness.
Following green wire from timer relay and from B- both lead to nowhere. Either side of a wire nut that I removed.
Well then this makes no sense.
With that green wire splice removed from B- I am now getting 0 from the previous readings.
Orange to ground / black
This should still be active with 12v (keyon/keyoff ← either way)
Is your battery still ON?
Tip: Disconnect that green wire that goes to B- at the flag/tap.
I don’t like stripped/bare ended wires floating around/uncontrolled that could drop on any number of uncovered connections.
It makes for quite the light show and sudden need to search for more difficult to find components.
Perhaps this has to do with the OTHER wire that was heading over to the DC Converter (now disconnected).
You mentioned it went to a black wire in the 12 pin connector?
Using this diagram, which wire was it?
