Does anyone have a picture of the keyswitch wiring setup for a 2000 E825? I looked at all the other threads about this topic but couldn’t find one with a properly installed and wired keyswitch. My keyswitch was disconnected and I didn’t have a reference picture to bring it back to stock.
Thank you!!
One wire goes to the center post, the other to one of the outer posts. You have to use a DVM and flip the key forward to see which post you connect to to complete the circuit.
The other outer post is not used.
I’m going to give that a try, thank you!
Be aware that I think that year runs battery voltage thru the switch at key “on”. 72v.
You are correct Mike.
It even gets more confusing.
The way I read it-
In unaltered form- that wire is B-
After recall performed- that wire is +12v.
2005 and up- that wire is B+.
Oh, my bad forgot about that
Really? I did not know that. Good information.
I found out the hard way, we tried to put a RFID start switch in a 2002 and hit a 12v circuit with 72v…
We let the smoke out 
RFID start switch? Why the remote start? Let the electric motor warm up?
/poke
had to.
LOL - I guess I should correct that -
RFDI proximity key - We wanted to be able to just walk up jump in and hit the pedal.
Have the car shutoff when we walked away.
Which one did you use @MikeKC ? Link?
Not sure of the exact one, was like four years ago but it was a lot like this one.
So does would this info change the suggestion to use a DVM and cycling the key to see which posts are the correct ones?
Use the DVM in continuity mode, you do it with the power off and the switch out like you have it. Clip on the center pin and turn the key “forward” and see which other pin you get continuity through. I forget which way the Medico lock works, if it’s the pin in the direction of twist or the opposite.
Thank you for that advice. I did as you said and connected my DVM in continuity mode and found the two prongs that completed the circuit. My issue is that when I reconnect my wires I get no response from my cart.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I can test next to see why I am not getting power to the switch??
I feel like this is my last step in this long process, thank you all so much for the help!
Standard question:
Have you had the recall done on the DC/DC converter? Sounds like you have no 12v systems.
If you don’t know what I am talking about search the forum for “recall” “dc/dc converter” - start reading
Oh boy, I am going to guess that the recall hasn’t been done. No 12V would make a lot of sense. I individually measured each battery and they were all 12V+. They are brand new so I would be hesitant to think it’s the batteries themselves.
I did a search on the topic and definitely learned a few things. If my recall hasn’t been done, would a dealer still do that or should I look for a new DC converter on my own?
I was losing my mind with this issue, thank you for helping me at least figure out a possible cause.
I’d definitely start with the dealer. I had the recall applied 3 years ago and it wasn’t an issue.
I thought I read on one of the posts that they weren’t doing them anymore… but I have a feeling that answer changes dealer to dealer so it can’t hurt to ask.
I’ll definitely look into that… My Zivan is flashing Red without Audible now. When I look that up it alludes to a DC issue. Seems like it’s almost a certain now that it’s the DC converter. I’ll do a VIN check and see what I find. Thank you for the help.
Seems like it’s almost a certain now that it’s the DC converter
Hmmm… could be, but with a fresh set of batteries and your charger still won’t start I’d look at something might be hooked up wrong.
Is your battery switch turned on?
