By battery switch do you mean the kill switch? That’s what the previous owner called the switch in the front that killed power to the cart. If that is what you are referring to then yes I am certain it is set to on.
When I plug it in, the light stays solid red for about 30 mins, then it flashes with no audible sound. Each battery is putting out 12V+ when I check them with my meter.
Does that still seem like a issue beyond the DC converter? I have reached out to my local Polaris dealer to see what they can do recall wise.
What does this “kill” switch look like? Is it a 1/4 turn metal paddle switch with big orange cables coming off the back of it? That is supposed to be in the back under the seat next to the batteries.
When it goes into flashing, is there a pattern? Count those flashes.
Have you identified your charger yet?
You really need to take the top off your dash next. We need to do some probing next.
Good morning, I am attaching a picture of my kill switch that is located in the front of my cart.
This is how I purchased it. I often thought this switch makes more sense under the seats, but the cart was working fine so I didn’t put any thought into it…
I am also including pictures of under bench batteries and under dash components.
I am running a freshly refurbished Zivan NG1 that I installed. I don’t think this cart has had the DC converter recall. I have reached out to my local Polaris dealer to see if they can do anything for me.
When I plugged in the charger today, it initially turned solid red with no audible, and after about 3 mins it changed to solid yellow with no audible. From what I have read in regards to Zivan codes that is a good thing. We shall see if it eventually does something else.
If you see anything in the photos that looks off please let me know.
Once this bad boy is back running, I am going to thoroughly enjoy every ride!
According to those pictures your car HAS has the recall done. Third picture down, right bottom corner, that black box with the silver sticker and cooling fins is your DC/DC converter and it is the newer one.
That does not mean it has not gone bad tho.
I am no help to you on the charger as I have never even seen a Zivan.
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It also looks like a through cleaning could be in order… lol
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Oh man, you have no idea. It was a barn find cart and has years of farm debris in it still. I’m going to have my kids do the cleaning once we have it functional again.
Thank you for helping me identify that… Well I guess the good news is that if I already have the updated converter then swapping it out will be much easier. If that is my issue of course. I was dreading the thought of having to change out the wiring harness and the converter. They seem tucked in there pretty good.
Update… The new charger has gone from solid yellow to solid green and shut itself off. That I know is a good thing.
Is there any test I can perform on my current DC converter to see if that part is the actual problem?
Get a meter and start checking your wires for voltage
Should have battery voltage between pin 1 and 12
Pin 4/5/6 and 9,10 - 12v key off
Pin 4/5/6 and 7,8 = 12v key on
Wow thank you so much for sharing this! I’m going to break out my meter and do some testing.
My cart did come with the factory radio option which for some reason still works. My horn and wipers do not. Headlights still work but they are controlled by an aftermarket switch I installed. If it was the converter, wouldn’t those components also not work?
Is that disconnect switch just hanging there? 300a in the wind…
Yes actually, the switch does just hangs in the front compartment like in the image. It doesn’t have any mounting point or place to keep it fixed. I’m gathering that most of you with my model year have that switch under the bench seats?
Si senior duck.
It went there between batteries 3 & 4 on the plate with the red and green dots
Electrically it’s doesn’t matter.
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Stock location of that Batt cutoff switch. Problem is that you need to pop the seat up every time you want to switch it ON/OFF. Under hood might be a better location but it all depends on how it was done. I think the tab under your seat is screwed on, in which case grab it and bring it up here.
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What is going on with this thing? Is that a connection? send a better pic of this.
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Automotive style Batt terminal is not the best to be used in this car. Probably the cable is not all that great either. It might be undersized for this purpose. It is probably not the issue holding you back at the moment but you should check/swap them all for something more reliable and higher quality.
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(not pictured, so don’t bother looking) Radio and headlights may have been hot wired direct to your front battery(I think I see some bootleg wires up there). If so, this is not the best idea. It unbalances your pack, If you go away and leave your headlights or radio on it will drain that battery dead-dead. To prove this theory, switch off your kill switch and see if these accessories still work.
Y- we can help you figure out where all your power is going.
Do you remember what you did with your interlock wires when you switched your charger?
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I have spent the bulk of my day trying to figure out why my key switch still won’t engage. I tested my converter and it is 100% fine. I plugged in into another Gem and it worked just fine. So, I changed my wiring harness from the converter to the other components. Now, when I turn on the batteries my dash reads “1533”, but I still can get no power to my key switch, horn, or wipers. I am losing my mind!!
Dumb question…
Did you check the fuses? The fuse block is on the compartment wall under the hood, in front of the passenger, under a rubber flap.
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Your not losing your mind, these cars will just make you think you are 
Welcome to the world of GEM cars. Especially 2000-2004’s
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lol. Oops. Nice catch. Fixed.
I did check my fuses earlier today and noticed that one of my 5’s was blown. I replaced that and checked the rest. They all looked good, They are pretty old so when I have the patience on Monday I’m going to change them all.
Would I need a different fuse setup with my new Zivan charger?
