I love a challenge so I guess I picked the right ride
Not that I know of. I can’t think why it would be necessary.
I read through this whole post and it sounds to me like you have your Zivan/GEM plugged into AC and are trying to use the key to turn on the GEM. The white and green wires you plugged into the Zivan are part of the key/enable system so when your plugged into AC you can NOT drive away.
Unplug your charger from AC and then try your key. If that doesn’t do anything then disconnect those 2 wires(w/spade connectors) from the Zivan and jumper them together and then try the key switch.
Are these the wires you speak ok?
Just to confirm -
-
Unplug the cart from the wall so that no power is going to the Zivan
-
Disconnect the green / white cables
-
Try key switch
-
If key switch doesn’t work jump white and green cables.
Show us the wiring on the top of your charger. Mainly the little ones.
And No. You got those instructions oddly incorrect.
Just to confirm -
- Unplug the cart from the wall so that no power is going to the Zivan
- Try key switch- Does it work(Y/N?)
- If key switch doesn’t work disconnect white and green cables. (Yours may be different colors. )
- jump white and green cables.
- Try key switch again.
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Holy “why is this battery terminal floating Batman”!
I’m getting the feeling this is not a “hey, my start switch wires fell off, where do they go?” and more of a ‘got this cheap GEM with no batteries, no charger and wires hanging out and it’s not working’ type of thing.
No way should the battery Master Disconnect be hanging off a battery in the front and no way should there be a battery in the rear seat compartment not be wired with heavy gauge wire into the system.
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dougl brings up a good point.
Go back to the battery pic. You never did expand on what was going on there.
Bringing back this topic. 2002 E4. Looking for a photo or suggestion of what type of connector for the key switch. I’ve tested the switch and it appears to be working. My IP harness doesnt have any connectors on the ORG/GN or RD/GN, just stripped wires. My question is what type of connectors go on the switch? is this some type of barrel or bullet? Also, does it matter if the line or load goes on the center stud?
Nice picnic table. Ceramic coated deck screws, the quality goes in before the name goes on…
… can’t say the same for the y2k gemeration
The key on the 2000-2004 gems was 72vdc. I don’t recall how the medico switches were pinned out but it’s easy to figure out with a multi meter. In theory, doesn’t matter which way you hook it up, just ideally, don’t leave a random uninsulated hot terminal in the column. Its just a simple switch. One hot in, one out.
Iirc, my 02 had mini push on barrels that would slip over the medico pins rather than soldering.
You could hire a hobo to put the wires in their mouth and see which is hot. If you post it to youtube, I’ll give you a like. Two likes if you have the piss bum hold a up a box of mushrooms for Darth Train.
The identity of the Key loop on the Gen1 cars will change depending on if this car has the new DC Converter/wiring update installed.
Original factory wiring → This wire is B- (-72vdc).
Updated wiring → This wire is +12vdc
That switch normally had some unreliable push on connectors, but many have simply soldered direct to the pins. Do it quick and you won’t melt the pins right out of the back end.
Center pin is com
Outside pins will be active (closed) depending on which direction key is cycled. Opposite pin will go open on same action.
Thanks for the help! I did find the part number for the wire leads and a source.
Medeco CP-270051
Those medico locks used to be like $140 give or take. Cant imagine it changed much since the key design is proprietary. The only advantage for the gem is that you can pull the key out after its turned on. If you don’t care about that you can can just get a generic key & tumbler at any auto parts store for about $15. And it will have screw terminals