I think I want to try another breaker and see if the car turns on. And if it does then that tells me the new breaker I got from GEM is no Bueno
Try the $19 breaker
Yes I will throw the $19 breaker in and see if that fixes it. Remember Polaris said that the breaker they sent me is one I need and that they didnât offer a 100amp breaker.
Most companyâs have a no return policy on electrical items. What do you think the policy is going to be on this item is it is no good. It was $80
I donât think itâs your breaker. In any event Polaris isnât going to warranty a part used on a modified cart. Get your wallet out.
Who said the car was Modified?
Not I 
Well then we shouldnât have a issue then!!
Did you swap it out?
No Iâm not near the car until the weekend
As Iâm sitting back and Re-Thinking about what happend, I remember a point when I looked at the display and the pack showed about 5-6 bars or about 75% charged. I remember seeing the bars that represent that batterys status FLASH on and off? Was this some sort or code or error message a flashing battery status display?
When we brought the car home I thought it could or may be a Low battery situation so I threw it on the charger. After a few Hrs still no change.
Iâm kind of talking my self out of the fact that it may not be the breaker BECAUSE I would think if the breaker was bad, wouldnât it not turn on at all?
OR is it bad and it only has enough power to initially fire up and then it canât hold the load and then Goâs off
Grant
Important: When I blew my motor I kept trying to reset it and about the 4th time the controller puked. UNHOOK your motor wires and check it out. If its shorted the breaker is protecting the controller.
Rodney
Rodney Ill take you advice and do that.
I called a guy I know thatâs a GEM car Tech. I told him of my problem. he thought it might be the PDM (power display module) This is the unit that holds all the fuses, It also communicates with the controller. And displays all the battery information to the Dash display.
He advised me to give that PDM the sniff test and if it smelt burnt the there is a good chance that might be the culprit
Well it looks like I my have lucked out. I pulled out the main breaker and it smells and looks melted. I hope this is the part that let go.
Itâs not a breaker in the sense that it provides over current protection.
Itâs just a safety disconnect.
Will not survive opening under even a modest load.
It should have a label saying as much.
A 350amp DC circuit breaker would be the size of one of your batteries.
Just to be sure, Looked up the fuse.
Hmmm
You have a 350 amp controller - you have a 250 amp fuse - I believe the breaker is 100 amp. about 6 months ago one of our members went thru this. DO NOT substitute.
These puppys get weaker with each trip event.
Just get your wallet out and enjoy the lighter load you have to carry in your back pocket. Check the back posts as we went thru a bit of a hassle sourcing the replacement. I believe it was about 70 bucks
I am going to substitute but it will be for something heavier duty not lighter⌠I donât understand when engineers install a electrical component that is underated for the system design, the switch itself becomes a hazard as we have seen they get insanely hot to the point of full melt down. I am investigating other switches even if they have to be installed elseware, problem I am running into is that the high quality HD battery swtiches are only good to 48vDC so I wiill have to continue investigating. I am curious why they went away from the old style in the <05 model years, those seem to be durable. The other thought hear is to install a 300A continuous rated switch under the seat in the series like the old setup at whcih point battery voltage is still at 48VDC or below.
[quote=OLD HOUSEBOATER;29742]Hmmm
You have a 350 amp controller - you have a 250 amp fuse - I believe the breaker is 100 amp. about 6 months ago one of our members went thru this. DO NOT substitute.
These puppys get weaker with each trip event.
Just get your wallet out and enjoy the lighter load you have to carry in your back pocket. Check the back posts as we went thru a bit of a hassle sourcing the replacement. I believe it was about 70 bucks[/quote]
When it was all said and done I think the New factory Polaris breaker was $100. Not that big of a deal. It a PITA (pain in the a$$) to get to. By the time I tried 3 different fuses I was happy to just replace the blowen up fuse with a exact replacement and be done with the hassel
Also consider adding one of these
DC 300A Analog Ammeter Panel Amp Current Meter 85C1 0 300A DC with Shunt | eBay
^^^^ Rodney thatâs a pretty slick set up. I wish the display was more modern or updated but You have pointed out very clearly how a Amp meter can Act as a guide to the driver in extending range. For that reason I think I am intrested in adding one