It doesn’t look Melted. The contact on the load side looks a little out of place like it got hot and the contact melted the plastic, so yes it’s Melted LOL.
Here is a pic of the contact side
But back to the Polaris dealer and its $229.00 price for what looks to be a $15 Ebay breaker. How do they justify that kind of markup?
AIRPAX says they don’t have that breaker under the part number I gave them
And they have since Gave that part number to a new company called NEWARK
And the new part # is 53R1480 and it sells for $140
Don’t you love ebay?
OH, is this Airpax breaker confirmed to be a good part number for the 2005 and newer GEM? These look like the marine DC circuit breakers at West Marine. I just want to be certain before including the number. The part numbers are very specific. See page 16 on this PDF.
Daniel
Grant West ordered one. Hope he’ll chime in when he gets it.
I have not installed the Breaker as soon as I get my input shaft back from OH we can test out the Breaker
Shipping today.
Marlon also advised me of West Marine and its Breaker selection. I will go look down the isles of west marine and see if they have anything
I took a stroll down to the local West Marine where I found several breakers. 50 A was the biggest breaker I could find that looked like it could possibly fit in the stock location. I did find a 100 amp blue sea breaker. (Photo) but the thing that had me worried was it said the breakers maximum voltage was 48 volts.
And that makes sense to me. If I was buying a breaker to protect my 12 V boat electronics I would hope it would trip at a much lower voltage then what are GEM cars require. So maybe my fantasy of suddenly walking into a West Marine and pulling something off-the-shelf that would work Is really just that "a fantasy"
The $19 breaker OH pointed me to is @ least 64volt so this has a pretty good chance of working out.
Hey I have (what I think) is the correct wire configuration. I wish I would have taken pictures to be sure but this is how I think it’s should be hooked up can you look it over and let me know.
Wire labeled #1 it says DSW on it and it comes from the back of the car. I’m assuming that’s the 72v positive. It’s hooked up to the LINE side of the breaker.
Wire #2 is hooked to the LOAD side of the breaker and provides 72v to the main panel.
Wire # 3 is also hooked to the LOAD side of the breaker and go’s to the Main Contact.
Grant
Crap - send me your burnt breaker I want to do some more study.
Rodney
Ok well seems to be some confusion and I have to take some responsibility. The Orignal price I was quoted was $260 for "What I thought was the "Main Breaker"
Turns out gemcarpartsdirect.com quoted me for a “Main Contact” NOT the Main Breaker. That breaker only turns out to be $80. Once I saw from the parts break down we were not talking about the same thing we were able to put the Train back on the tracks.
But here is something Intresting. The New Replacment Breaker is a lower Ampreage then my Orignal. Gem car parts shows the Replacment part as a 70amp breaker. Remember my stock one is 100 Amps and a max voltage of 80
The new Replacment is 70 amps and 125 max volts???
Well the New Main Breaker came in. 70amps
Installed the new factory breakers and everything seems to be working fine
Well last night it Craped out. I put about 10 miles on the car and it worked fine. (Driving by my self) then last night we had 4 people in it going up a steep hill we could smell a burning electrical smell and then when we go to our location the cars display went black and the car was dead.
When I reset the breaker the display would flash on but then instantly turn back off
Any ideas what it could be?
Pulled too many amps and burnt something up. Hills, load, and big tire wheel combos don’t mix.
Suggest you don’t reset the breaker until you check the motor for shorts. When mine did that it cost me $454 for controller rebuild plus a new motor. Note: You can deal direct with FSIP - see Daniels list.
Suggest you install an ammeter. It’s unreal how many amps you can pull before something burns up.
What could be causing the not to turn on. Could I have blown up another Breaker??!!
When you throw the breaker the display comes on for just a moment and then turns off.
Assuming the motor is fine what would be the next step in figuring out what’s wrong