I hit a pothole and about a mile later I noticed it began losing some performance and after about another mile it wouldn’t do more than 5 mph on level ground. I turned the car of a couple times to see if that would help but it didn’t and there’s no error code on the dash. Anyone have any idea what’s wrong or what to check? I did a quick roadside check and I didn’t notice anything out of place.
Thanks
Derrick
Does throttle have any effect?
Anything else should throw a code.
Even turf and turtle do better than that.
Speedometer working?
No throttle position does not affect anything, switching between turf and road mode doesn’t make any difference. I had to park the gem on the side of the road because I didn’t want to hold up traffic on a very busy road. I came back about an hour later to see what I could do and I checked to see if sitting helped, it took of with plenty of power and and then the power dropped off after 100ft but it made it the last 1/4 mile home at 8mph. Also the batteries were 90%. I also noticed that the front right outer CV boot is spewing grease and it was a little difficult to steer every now and then after hitting the pothole.
With no codes, all I can think of is a throttle problem. The throttle is not telling the car to go faster.
To test it you will need to access the throttle input to controller, and watch it on a meter.
-code PTH ( pot hole)
Sorry no advice just trying to be funny
How do I test the throttle and what values should I be getting and not getting?
Thanks
Derrick
Pin 7 should go from near zero to 3.5-4.5 volts at full throttle.
Use battery B- or pin 8 is better for common to meter.
Easy to say, not so easy to do.
I don’t see how throttle can fail this way. A bad connection on pin 7 or 9 would do it.
May be reseat the 23p plug. Spray and lube.
Update: just took it for a test drive when I got home from work. Started out running like normal and turned around after 4 blocks, and then noticed diminished power when I went around the corner and got back on the throttle. Stopped at a red light after another 2 blocks and it would only creep ahead downhill to 13mph and then another 2 blocks and it would barely take off from the stop sign. I ended up having help push with my foot on the gas the last 50 to get it in the driveway. Also it has new batteries in April with 850 miles and have been properly maintained.
Derrick
It just seems to me that its running like you clicked the throttle on to minimum position.
As if there was a brick under pedal. Idle speed and power only.
Does that make sense?
No it kinda seems like something is overheating or the batteries are dying. I don’t think it’s the batteries because they are new and the dashboard says they are fully charged
Anything that I can think of throws a code.
Unless its motor brushes.
I wouldn’t rule the motor brushes out. It sat in the weeds for a year or two before I resurrected it. I’ve been wondering why it makes so much noise when I drive it, was thinking it was the motor or transaxle but hadn’t got around to trying to figure out where it was coming from. How do I probe the wiring hanrness for the throttle when it’s plugged in? Also how do determine if it’s the motor? Will the performance decline when the brushes get warm and then bounce back to normal when the cool down? It seems like performance degrades with use and improves after sitting.
This is typical throttle assembly failure symptoms. These puppys are horribly expensive.
Beg, borrow or steal one to prove it out. I spent over 12 hours the first time I ran into this. I am in process of building a work around for this using an old style throttle.
I told Nev Accessories about the 2003 Chevy Trailblazer accelerator pedal since it had the same exact module and connector. Unfortunately they said it worked backwards and never came to fruition.
Mounting backwards?
Yes. I think they said it goes from high to low so 800 ohms to 3000 ohms.
Should be a matter of switching p8 and p9.
Maybe might be worth looking into then, surprised they wouldn’t think of that.
Don’t know until you try. A pot using 3 wires is a voltage divider. Adjusts from one end to the other.
Depending on how it’s wired, from 0-5v or 5-0v.
Maybe they meant mechanically backwards or upside down.
Or they may not want to sell a cheaper product with less margin that is not a direct replacement.
The harness could be cut and wires swapped before selling them.
