I’m converting my 2015 GEM to lithium batteries I found out that my charger cannot except a algorithm for lithium as it is a GEM version of the QuiQ Battery Charger. I’m putting in a lithium charger and I’m wondering if I can continue to use theQuiQ Battery Charger as just the DC to DC converter? Obviously, I would disconnect the AC input and just put my lithium charger in parallel with the output of this charger.
AlsoI would have to put a 10K resistor on the white wire to override the warning heat warning
Concerning the green wire. Am I correct that it sends out pack voltage when the vehicle is running, and it is cut off when the charger comes on? If so, I’ll build a relay so the new charger will do the same.
Has anybody tried this or have any ideas/ concerns why I SHOULD NOT do this?
There seems to be some misinformation in this post. Hopefully, this will clear some of it up.
Converting your car to lithium is kind of a hack that needs to be done correctly. This is why it is important to select a battery maker that fully understands the inner works of the Gem.
The main reason to use another charger is the manufacturer probably supplies his own dedicated charger for their new pack as to not upset the new battery warranty.
Your car (being a 2015) presents an added complication beyond the simple battery/charger swap. As you may have figured out, the original DQ Charger also contains a DC Converter that supplies 12vdc to power the car (Your car will not run without 12vdc). The lazy designers simply leave the charger in place for this purpose only (which I think is a waste). Alt plan is to install another DC Converter for 12v.
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I’m converting my 2015 GEM to lithium batteries I found out that my charger cannot except a algorithm for lithium as it is a GEM version of the QuiQ Battery Charger
Who told you that your onboard charger could NOT be programmed?
Which battery did you install into your car? (I bet it was the same guy that sold you that pack).
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Also, I would have to put a 10K resistor on the white wire to override the warning heat warning
I think you misunderstand the purpose of the white wire.
it IS the temperature sense wire that can adjust the charge curve depending on the temp of the battery during the charge cycle.
The white wire is not associated with any temp sense warning for driving/operation of the car.
If the DQ is not going to be used for charging your new battery, there is no need to be concerned with it.
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Concerning the green wire. Am I correct that it sends out pack voltage when the vehicle is running, and it is cut off when the charger comes on? If so, I’ll build a relay so the new charger will do the same.
Yes- The green wire is the charger interlock. You have the conditional state/theory of this wire correct.
It locks the car during charge operation so it cannot be driven away while plugged in
Resets the SOC/Battery Bars on your Dash Pod Display meter
Check your new charger to see if it is equipped with N/C (dry contact) output interlock wire. That makes things easier. Otherwise, yes. You will need a relay to do this or flip the switch manually.
Thank you for your reply. Yes, I realized afterwards I posted this, I would not need to put in the 10K resistor as this is only for the charging mode of the. 922-7200-04B and from what I’ve read would not need it for lithium anyway.
I was told by Delta Q Customer support when inquiring if the programming kit would allow me to put a the lithium algorithm #223 in my GEM charger 922-7200-04B.
Answer:
“Unfortunately, GEM chargers use specific software and are not able to be reprogrammed or have algorithms added”. from Customer Agent, Customer Support Team Delta-Q Technologies, a ZAPI GROUP Company.
So are you telling me my 922-7200-04B is able to be upgraded to do lithium I want to use algorithm number #233 as this would be correct for my lithium battery pack containing 18650s.
The reason I was considering keeping the original Q Delta charger and using it just as a DC to DC converter is that it puts out constant 12 V as well as switched 12 V. The DC converters that I’ve seen have a wire to switch them on and off, but do not also have a constant output.
I was also thinking I could use two separate converters, one to stay on all the time, and the other one to be switched on with the ignition? But by the time I buy two good quality converters I might as well just use the one I already have??
I’m an E Bike engineer and I understand lithium batteries. I am building the battery out of 18650s. It is 168Ah 72V with 240A constant output and a peak of 630A.
Ah, So that is the official word for DQ. They must have been told by a Corporate suit not to play with the “special” chargers.
Sometimes you can find a rogue dealer that will update the software, or even purchase a DQ from outside the gem world so you can run other profiles to get it to do what you need to do. Your car may take on the strange behaviors of a factory sweeper tho.
keeping the original Q Delta charger and using it just as a DC to DC converter
Yes, I am hip to the secondary need to run this charger/inverter, and how there is not a good replacement available. As a side hack/alternative, I have been experimenting with cheap (amazon) single output converters in “constant on” state and using a relay to simply switch a leg off this for the switched ACC the Gem car needs. So far, it is working great.
Thirdly - Using the original DQ is better as it is also wired up for the interlock.
I am building the battery out of 18650s. It is 168Ah 72V with 240A constant output and a peak of 630A.
Wow. That is ambitious. I seem to remember a couple of guys that were going to do this sort of thing, but I don’t remember how far they got in their project or where they ended up. (I think a quick trip through the archives may be in order just to refresh the old gray cells).
Q1- Where are you in the build?
Q2- What exactly is your target voltage?
Q3- What BMS are you using on this pack?
Doing the math
168ah is going to get you some very good range. What is this car going to be used for?
240A constant output and a peak of 630A are also some real good numbers. This will support a gem car easily.
Using the simple statement “72v” may have been using the generic class description, and I hope you are not actually using that as a target. You will not be impressed. Your car will drive around all day like it has a flogged out set of Lead Acid batteries. You may not even get full use out of your pack.
Gem car standard Voltage window is 68 low and 85v high. For Lifepo4 cells, you should be building up a pack of 24s. This puts your PackV spending most of it’s time around 79.2v (not counting V drop).
But the real fun begins if you push V up higher. The hot rod community here routinely live up around 88 to 96v.
But we also walk under ladders, own black cats, and routinely run with scissors.