Lithium Conversion Journey

Okay, with help I got here I am continuing this conversion. I received the new lithium yesterday. Thank you Inwo. I started the the conversion today Here are some pictures I will post as I go. I welcome any help.
Thank you in advance.



Uploading: 20210820_185115.jpg…Uploading: 20210820_191704.jpg…Uploading: 20210820_193949.jpg…

2 Likes

Day 2 finished installing lithium batteries then a delta q removal.



A post was merged into an existing topic: Lithium battery packs for sale

image



That was a lessons learned.
BMS on

2 Likes

Yes car ran before swap. Pin 1 was in correct location. I got it powered up but I have a a 72 on the speedometer with a battery looking like it is charging. I have to connect the Delta q back not sure why. vehicle powered up but I have the turtle flashing. Lost at the moment I know the delta q had the gel algorithm. Can the GEM run without a charger?

I got Pin 1 from this picture also the mold had 1,8,16,23 identified.
here is a link to get pin one out (AMPSEAL Connector Instructions - YouTube)
pin 1

Inwo, are you still upgrading algorithm’s for the Delta q’s also what model’s can be upgraded?

Yes dqcp and later are programmable.
Car will not run without charger unless interlock is bypassed.
72% and battery charging means charger green wire not connected.
Connecting a charger will allow car to run.

My observation is that there are too many loose ends.
Connecting positive and negative Battery cables to the new battery, in a working car, and it will drive.
15 minute job.
It might be that charger is connected wrong or that pin 1 is not inserted properly.
Or any of a number of things that were changed that I’m unaware of.

No worry, we will get it running! :slight_smile:

No, gem is powered by the green wire from charger.

I supply a 7.5v spoof with these batteries.


On charge

Now that it is charging, check to see if your turtle has cleared. I could be wrong, but it may not need a full charge cycle to reset.

Settings look ok, but if you want, Inwo was suggesting you could pull down the settings marked Cell OVP to 4.05 and OVPR to 3.95.

When any cell V goes up to the set OVP level it will shut down and disconnect the battery from the charger. The app will put up a red banner. Don’t be alarmed. If left alone the battery will cool down and drop a bit. If it goes down to the reset level it will kick back in.

If you want to go for a drive and car appears dead you need to come back into the app and flip the Batt Discharge switch on and it will wake up the car. (it may need a flip OFF then ON cycle)

You can also use this (Bat Discharge) switch to lock out the battery as a security feature so nobody drives off with the car.

1 Like

Looks good. If using a lead algorithm report how the charging goes.
The only issue might be that charger won’t finish a cycle quickly and go into a trickle charge. <1 amp.
If it does, we can turn the bms down to interrupt the charge cycle.

Doing some math with the spoof.
Car won’t start below 3.4v 76v total.
I believe that spoof is ignored while running.
But if you stop when below 76v it will nor restart, because of the spoof.

Someone could add the x22 total volts to the chart.

Car won’t start below 3.4v 76v total.
I believe that spoof is ignored while running.
But if you stop when below 76v it will nor restart, because of the spoof.

I will see if I can remember to try this on mine.

uvpr is too high. should be around 3.00

Good catch. What is the default? Don’t know what happened with that. I may have changed it in error rather then ovpr, as they are the top 3. :crazy_face:

I set it to .01v higher than shutoff

Turtle gone, we got it running.



Nice! How does it work? (first impressions)
Don’t take it too far.
Did the charger top out and shut down?
It looks like we need to get another profile into your charger.
3.7p/cell is barely working that pack!
Have you scrolled through your loaded library to see what else is loaded in there?