I found a set on CL for 100 with low profs…I can put spacers in the rear, no problems there.
I want to know;
If you are running 18"s , and I need to hear from you
are you have clearance issues with steering geometry does it rub when you turn-
Where does it rub?
Did you trim the fenders?
Did this fix the issue?
I want 17s but these are here, now and cheap. I can paint them to match my gem and I am happy. Would prefer not to cut but will if needed. Not scared to trim a fender.
With out a fast reply I will buy them and try, I can always trade them off.
23 inches over is about the most you can run in the front with out to much issues.
To figure out the over all height of your tire and wheel combination google tire and wheel caculator. You will punch in the tire size and profile and that will tell you if the height.
Bottom line you (with enough work) can make anything fit. It just depends on how much time and $ you wanna throw at the project
17*7.5 on 4X100
245/45/17 yokohama tires on factory Mini Rims bolted right up. Brought one home to test. Will need 1/8" spacers on the front due to slight rub on hard turns, they hit on spring. No problem that a spacer won’t fix. Might have to raise the back cover slightly also but thats also easy with body shims. I will post pics when all four are installed next week.
4 Factory Mini Rims $150.00
4 used tires from a buddy $ 50.00
Spent 100 over my original budget. The rims are almost new from a rim swap at a local tire shop.
You did good. 245’s I don’t know how that’s gonna work out for you in the rear. 205’s and even 195’s will rub. But like you sad you can space the rear fender up. I made these handy dandy spacers that allow you to adjust the fender up to create clearance.
Tip: I placed some large Zero gauge wire on my tires and then layed the fender on top of the wheels. The zero gauge wire makes a space so that you have clearance . Here are some pics:
The factory fender bracket normally mounts to rear end. These new brackets mount to the rear rend and your factory brakets mount to theses new aluminum brackets.
You have quite a bit of adjustment
I forgot to note that there is an exception. Some years have a fixed rear fender Mount
On these cars the rear fender mount attaches to the pivot point of the rear end and also the top of the shock tower mount on cars with this style of rear fender my aluminum bracket fix will not work you need to come up with spacers of some kind
In years past we did body lifts on jeeps with hockey pucks. Hardened rubber, drill a hole in the center and get longer body bolts. Each one was good for 1 +/- inch. I was thinking along those lines. Once the rims are on I will work it out. Lifting the rear section seems easy enough.
On my 2008 2 seat Gem. I have to lift the spat and inch and move it over toward the drivers side a inch also. Its not In the center of the cars frame And to low for the 15" 50 series rear tires. The right passenger side tire has already rubbed through on the inside of the spat fender. When it lost air down to 10 pounds. Properly inflated it only has 1/2 " clearance on the inside of the fender.
Anybody have a picture of what a two passenger car looks like with the spat off?
4 rims and tires from a Mini Cooper. 17" rims–245/45/17 tires. The 4X100 was not an issue. It seems to be faster and seems to run up our steep hills better. Did notice the smell of brakes when reaching the bottom of the second decline from full speed. Will need to watch brakes and monitor the wear. The ground clearance is a million times better. Now it does not feel golf cart-ish…
I have 3 problems that I will need to solve;
1st
I need to run a 3/8th spacer on all four. The fronts hit the springs when turning either direction 100% tight but only while doing a very tight u-turn. Not otherwise. Drove all day did not rub once. I will space all four equally just for looks.
2nd
The lug studs are too short to use spacers so I must replace them to allow for the spacers. Once again, running now without spacers with no issues, just have to pay attention to the turning radius.
3rd
Rear spat…
Too short,
Too narrow
Tires are too wide to fit in the wheel wells
Simply won’t work. Once I have the tires spaced I will seriously look at sectioning the rear spat, narrowing the center section and widening the wheel wells. I doubt this will work though.
Solution…
Build SS box to cover battery and let it go. Will build a rear deck that will cover it anyway.
I will install LED Dot lights in the rear section behind the back seats for brake lights, tail light and turn signals. So far love them…I am all in right now for $165… Not sure who said it wasn’t possible to get them that cheap. Well??? It took longer than expected but well worth the wait.
No doubt it looks great.I like the way the car looks with bigger wheels, And I agree the bigger wheels help it break away from the Golf cart look.
It’s to late now but you will slowly realize that you got a great deal on the wheels.
What many people don’t account for is that adding automotive wheels drastically effect all aspects of how your gem car will perform and mostly for the worse.
You can expect, Loss of Range, Poor quality ride, rubbing issues, potential controller overheating due to the extra strain the larger diamater wheels puts on the controller
or motor. Depending on your terrian Potential gear change may or may not be in your future. Extended braking distance (your car will NOT break as easy or quickly) with the larger heavyer wheels)
None of these issues CANT be overcome, but B4 you are all stoked on your $100 wheels just know that your just getting started as far as spending $ and or working in your car. Like you noted you your gonna need longer studs and the wider tires are gonna force you to do somthing about your rear fender. I have no idea how much time and or money that’s gonna set your back. But if saving money and adding wheels was your goal I can 100% tell you that you went about it the wrong way. I know this because I have done Exactley what you have done and found out how Expencieve adding inexpencieve wheels can be in the long run. Im not trying to rain on your paraide Im just trying to keep it real.
I love big wheels but just throwing a set on pretty much takes what little performance you car had and throws it out the window. And like I said all these issues can be overcome and fixed you just have to throw more time and money at it.
After re-reading my post I just want to say it sounds like I’m being a old grumpy dude, in my post above, and trust me I’m not I like doing mods such as adding wheels I just wanted to make it clear to anyone thinking about adding larger aftermarket wheels that as easy as it may look there is more to it. As soon as you start going larger then 14 or 15 you have to compensate, if your fully willing to do that then by all means “go
for it”. The reason most of the cars you will see coming out of "Innovation Motorsport"
Are a 14-15 inch wheels it’s because it’s a direct bolt on replacment with little to no mods that have to be made.
I reached out to Innovation Motorsports so many times I lost count. They do not reply to email or return calls or reply to requests through FB. As far as I am concerned its not a real business just a bunch of guys doing bolt on mods/paint and reselling gems and golf carts and there are a lot of those here in TX. I watched this business model with Jeep and Truck accessory companies fail miserably. I really wish they had responded I wanted to purchase some stuff from them. Now I will just have it made locally. I am not bagging on them, I was just very very disappointed in the total lack of any response. I still follow them on FB looking for ideas.
Old House Boater, I did take all your suggestions and recommendations and weighed the options before jumping off this bridge. I really wanted 16’s but could not find ones that I liked “used” and do not want to pay full retail for a toy that I drive from my house to my boat dock (less than 1/4 mile) then around my small hood (small, small subdivision) to friends houses. I expect the motor to crap out soon from the hills and will upgrade motor and controller when that happens. As far as working, I am not afraid to tear it apart and rebuild it. It is way cheaper than the race bikes or rock crawlers I have had in the past. I look forward to playing with this and I just don’t like stock anything…Also, If they really suck I can trade them off…
I have found the information on this site and from you very informative and I always appreciate criticism. Its my first journey down this road.
As far as Innovation Go’s they are in the business of fixing up and Re-Selling Gems for 15-20k. I don’t think selling you or me a set of wheels and tires is what they wanna do. It would be nice if they would make that clear. Cause I have had the same type of experience, I reached out to buy a roof rack and “No Reply” I ended up making my own. But All the time spent on the phone answering questions to make what seems to be a small profit I think they can sniff out a sale and depending on what it is Example I bet if you sent a email saying you wanted to buy one of his 20k cars you would get a reply REAL FAST.
Heres the deal Ride For Fun sells 14" Wheel and tire packages that wont strain your cart fo $800 bucks. I just burned up a motor and had my controller rebuilt (Flight Systems $454) I had a spare motor. To pull the large Diameter tires and wheels your going to end up with at least a 7.5 HP motor and a bigger controller.
Changing out to one of Marlons 12.44 trans axles would obviate that however. If your the same as Grant and I Working on them is as much fun as driving them GO FOR IT.
and found out how Expencieve adding inexpencieve wheels can be in the long run. Im not trying to rain on your paraide Im just trying to keep it real.