Test AC motor thread

Ok to make this public?
I can move other posts to here too.

1 Like

Sometimes the solution is staring you in the face. I unscrewed the insulation plate/block, and flipped it around. Voila.

Now I need to tackle the shock still. The pry bar is barely making it budge, I must be weak. I am leaning towards going the additional washer route and just mounting it on the backside of the shock mount.

It’s alive!

Here is the behavior:

Turn main breaker on, I hear a high pitched noise, may be a loose ground on the beeper alarm.

Turn key switch on, solid LED on the PCB, Solid Green LED on the Sevcon, contactor clicks on

Dash Display has temperature, turtle, wrench, and gear selector icons flashing (seems right since there is no GEM controller connected), but hey the headlight indicator works LOL.

I took a quick spin around the block, but with no hood, headlights, and it beginning to rain the drive was cut short. The experience is so much more solid feeling now, and I love the feeling of the regen, it’s like a real car now!

I turned off the breaker when I got back home, as I haven’t gotten the Delta Q hooked up with the J1772 Adapter yet, just need some terminal rings.

So far so good! This is awesome guys, let me know if anything seems amiss :slight_smile:

Awesome, thanks Mike!

Things are beginning to come together!

Alright, dumb question, do I need to jack the front of the car up to get the shock out? I have the bolt out, but it doesn’t seem to be budging.

From my eye, I think I will need to cut the ram horn, but wanted to make sure with the shock out.

So, it fits without cutting, but…

When I lined it up with the connections on the top, they were almost touching the ram horn. I turned the motor which spaced the connections away, but it seems to hit the shock.

I am not sure if cutting the ram horn will gain the few inches I need to clear the shock since it lined up okay with the gearbox.

I am going to fiddle with it some more, but welcome any ideas.


So update, after much wiggling, I was able to get the motor to slot with the connections on top, and the shock barely rubbing against the motor.

My concern now goes back to the connections on the top of the motor. They are ridiculously close to the ram horn.

It seems the connections are bolted down to a piece of insulating board in between the motor and the cables. Is there any issue with me trying to move that back a bit, or trying to fabricate a different connection point?

My other option would be to remove the ram horn in that area , but I would love to avoid it if I can.

Every car seems a little different.
There is not a problem moving the motor cables or the shock.
How many bolts line up in various positions?
Imo, start there, and move thxings that are in the way.
Mike will know more.


Well heck, I did not even know you could to that, NICE WORK.

If you can’t clearance the shock with the pry bar the mount the shock on the back side like you said. It will no zero difference in the cars handling.

Yes, sometimes the cables from the contactor or negative are short, I know I sound like a broken record but all these car are slightly different. You seem to be adapting well !! Install looks really nice.

FYI - don’t forget the positive from the contactor goes on the terminal with the red circle. I made this mistake for the first four or five installs I did. It seems anti-intuitive, but if you put it on the terminal even with the negative you are bypassing the fuse.

Are you mounting the PCB under the dash? If so all you need is a small gauge wire from the B- terminal to one of the extra quick connect spades on the PCB. The board get negative from there and positive through the GEM 23 pin connector.


I have used these. Just notch out area’s for the wires to enter.