Reverse lights for GEM 2015 E6

Does anybody know if the GEM come prewired or has an idea how where to do the connection for reverse light.

My 2005 does not and has nothing about it in the manual. Totally different gemeration though, so I suppose my point is moot.
I bet something could be tied into the backup beeper as an alternative.

I can’t speak on the 2015 but I’m pretty sure the answer is NO.

I put reverse lights on my 2002. I ended up using a completely different switch to turn them on and off. The reason. The switch on the dash is a 72 volt switch. The reverse lights are 12v. I’m sure their is a way to make it happen just never did it


The 2015 GEM are prewired to provides 12v for back up light. I just added this single light which also serves as license plate light as well.

they are prewired on 2005 and up cars you have a blue/green cable under seat ready for that
you also need black wire for negative or frame

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Yes I found the wire and added the back up light as in picture on my GEM.

Thanks to the info in this thread I just added a reverse light to my 2013 e6S. it always bothered me that it didn’t have one. The pre-run reverse drive mode signal wire was dark blue with a yellow stripe, located in the harness on the passenger side under the rear most seat.

HopOn - What year is your car? Since you have the Bl/Y wire- I might assume you have 2005 >.
One diagram I have shows a back up light relay inside the psdm. It gets power from the brake light fuse F6. If that fuse was blown you probably won’t have brake lights either.

That relay also gets trigger signal from the Rev circuit that drives the car and beeper.
If something was amiss there you probably wouldn’t get the backup beep. Are you getting a beep? Maybe some hack cut your wire from the controller?

If you get both of those then where are you picking up the gnd? Should be Chassis ground but see if there is a black wire in the bundle you can tap.

Report back with your findings.

Pre-wired backup signal in the harness? W00t. It’s like Xmas in the Caribbean. All we need is snow

No- Pretty much everybody else is wayyyyy smarter than me. I just pretend real good.

My secret? → the magnifying glass tool in the upper right of the screen opens a search window that allows access to the super handy archives that can help sort out common issues you may run into. It is a great resource that goes back many years.

Two things that should trigger a beep.

  • master disconnect (on), key (off), handbrake (down/off) - steady Beeeeeeeep
    The car is telling you it may roll away if on a hill or incline
  • master disconnect (on), direction switch in (REV) - Repeating Beep, Beep, Beep
    The car is in Reverse. Also serves as audible warning to surrounding pedestrians.

If you are getting the handbrake beep and not the reverse beep then we check for a cut wire. If yo are not getting any beep then something else may be going on.

Some users find the beeper is quite loud and annoying. It is difficult to get to the beeper itself since it is buried inside the PSDM and dash. A popular quick bypass is to cut a wire coming the controller telling the PSDM to sound on. Since the PSDM is also the control for the lights, it could be that this is why your backup lights are not working either.

Take a look up at your main plug on the motor controller to see if this wire is cut. Look for a Blue-green wire at pin 10. It may even have a flag/tap on it also.

I will send you a PM reference the documents.

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I have a 2002 two seater with a reverse light that has never worked since I’ve had the cart. All of my beeps work correctly. I never bothered to look into but it would be nice if it worked. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the reverse light?

I don’t see a provision for a back up light relay in the doc for early cars. I don’t even see a reference for it in the harness notes. Perhaps this was done by a PO or a dealer?
Are there any wires running around that may indicate that it was hooked up at one time?

There is no reason it can’t be hooked up. Easiest would be to hook it up to a switch. More difficult would be to tie it in to the reverse wiring.

I do see that the beeper signal wire exits the controller and goes to the PWB as the same Blu/Y wire. Verify this with a meter and see what voltage is on that wire and get an appropriate relay tapped into it(12v?/72v?). Have the new relay contacts switch a 12vdc circuit for your backup lights.

Thanks for the quick response. Maybe it has something to do with the cart originally being sold in New York. They may have required a reverse lamp. I know my front directionals/amber lights are different because it was from New York. Or at least that’s what I was told. I will check out that wire the next time I have the dashboard off.
License plate light is on the right of the plate and reverse light is on the left in the photo.

No joy in Mudville tonight for my 2010 eL.

Finally wrapped up repairing the all the blown micro fuses in my battery pack, put it back together and got it back on line with the new BMS this evening. Harness splits right next to to so I took a look and no blue/green in harness under the seat, and none of the 3 open connectors that are under there respond to the travel direction switch when placed in reverse.

Oh well. Maybe next time I have the dash apart, I’ll check if tapping into the direction of travel switch output to control a new relay for reverse and cargo bed work light is feasible or not.

Do you have a DBl/Y that is not being used? Ref Bk from the tail light plug.

Electrical schematics? What is this pagan sorcery of which you speak?

This was kind of a “Hey, I’m in here on this other project already, let me take a quick look” situation. I was cleaning up the wiring for the volt pack and had a few minutes so I went by memory of e2’s post rather than pull the prints. That’s what I get for not double checking. /sigh

Yes, there is a DB/YL wire under there that is not connected. It was one of the three connectors that weren’t hooked up that I tested. None of them responded with voltage when I put the selector in reverse. So that only leaves:

  • Invalid test or malfunctioning test equipment
  • disconnected at PSDM or broken wire in the run
  • no trigger to relay or relay missing / failed

I’ll get back around to this again when I next decide to take the dash apart. If it is #3, hopefully it’s not a PSDM board issue / soldered in micro-relay.

Thanks for the reality check.

I’d be happy to draw up a diagram here but my box of crayons only has 8 colors and I just broke my blue one.

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You were chewing on it again, weren’t you?

It’s ok. I personally think the red ones taste better though.

The local rats like Ford yellow or green wire insulation the best
All brands of under hood sound insulation, is tasty to them, Ford being the best, Toyota a close second, chevy will do after their favorites are gone