Reverse engineering (pinning out) a EV controller?

I have a new controller in the mail to replace a no-name (and no documentation) controller that presently runs my EV. While some of the wire colors are fairly easy to guess - others are baffling me.

Does anyone know where I can get some information on reverse engineering or pinning out an existing controller? I have come across a few good documents on testing your controller, but they tend only to focus on the hall sensor (which is already easily identified).

Just to give you an idea of what I am working with … here is a picture.

Note that the connector on the left is the hall sensor. Although there are an additional two wires that are not typical (brown and gray). I believe it may be temperature/overheat?

EDIT - I should note here that I have already put in t-taps on the existing controller connections and ran them into the vehicle in a harness so that I can operate the controls and test the connections with a multi-meter.

You really need Schematics of both controllers. Wire colors/functions are not standard among manufacturers. Did you not say you had an AC motor. This requires a different controller than what is common today.

Suggestion. Grant West is parting out a GEM. You might consider replacing the entire system with GEM components including the complete wiring harness. and BDC instrument. You could save your present system when you want to sell the vehicle.

What controller did you buy?

Note: GE T2 controllers are head and shoulders above current T3 and T4 which are severly crippled as far as easy performance programming

Keep us upto date. Extreemly interesting project. This is a GE T4 controller currently on late model GEMS (for shunt wound motors) The China people would have to meet current U S laws so electrically there should be similarties in function that can be traced by following the wires.

I bought an equally strange Chinese controller to go with my Chinese car. It only took 10 days to ship here! It’s quite impressive looking (especially for the price). And while the seller is obviously speaking English as a second language - he has done well to answer the questions that I have emailed him.

Here is a picture of the controller.

And here is where I bought it.

I must admit - I was drawn in by the bluetooth programming capability. But a good deal can be controlled by connecting various wires. It has a soft-start option, cruise control, over and underspeed controls, etc. It even has engine braking ability which I do not plan on using.

I am going to add a few things. A project box with switches for some of the above options. And some fans to keep the box cool. I was going to pop it open to look inside, but it’s very well sealed to keep out the elements so I am going to leave that alone.

The instructions were pretty good, and I don’t think it will be as difficult as I originally had thought. Might be another week or two before I tackle this one. In the meantime, this weather on Ohio needs to get warm and STAY warm!!

I will be sure to take a lot of pictures of the project and share them here. :slight_smile:

How many amps capacity?

Well, it doesn’t say. But I suppose we could do the math to figure it out? The rated power is 4000W.

If Watts = Volts * Amps, then 60v * 67Amps = ~4000W.

Of if I added a battery to make it 72v it would be roughly 56Amps.