Is there a procedure somewhere on replacing the U joint shafts with CV half shafts? I checked the 6 part ford shop manual and could not find directions. Thanks for any help.
TH!NK neighbor Section 3 Powertrain
Halfshafts Removal
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Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting in the General Information section.
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Remove the wheel and tire assembly
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Remove the coil over shock assembly lower mounting nut (1) and bolt (2).
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Remove the halfshaft nut and spacer.
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Pry the halfshaft from the gearbox and then remove it from the hub.
Installation
- Reverse the removal procedure.
- Replace the tension clip on the inboard end of the halfshaft.
- Install the halfshaft spacer and nut.
- Tighten the halfshaft nut to 175-260N.m (129-191lb-ft.).
If you want a copy of the shop manual send your email address
Manual sent >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks David, I appreciate it!
Ray L.
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I literally did this last weekend. Here are some thoughts and experience that go beyond the short steps in the manual:
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Even with the lower shock bolt disconnected, there was not enough room to pull the shaft forward to disengage it from the gearbox. I ended up removing the wheel hub (needed to flush the brake fluid anyway) and rear trailing arm, this was not hard and then access to the U-joint was trivially easy.
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I spent way too much time trying to get under the boots and pry out the U-joint, don’t do this. The grungy metal cup assembly that holds the joint just pops off as a unit with a quick tug. It is also pre-assembled on the replacement CV joints (assuming you got the same ones I did from NEVAccessories) so just don’t mess with it. Also, the grease in there is nasty and gets over everything - leave them sealed.
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Installation is fairly easy, but there’s a small step that’s easy to miss. On the spline shaft sticking out of the gearbox is a groove at the end that holds a retaining tension clip. I’m not 100% sure of the purpose as there’s not enough travel in the suspension for the axle to pop out accidentally as near as I can tell, but I could be wrong. Shaft will not go on with it in place. Removing the c-clip is easiest by pushing the “open” end into the groove so that the opposite side sticks up a bit, then prying a small flat screwdriver under it.
In the service instructions it just says to place this on the inboard side of the half shaft, but I tried that and while I could install the axle, the clip did not pop into the gear box groove - just slid into the back of the spline cup on the axle. I’ve left it there for now to see what happens, now sure how critical this is.
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This is, BTW, a fantastic opportunity to flush your brake fluid. Mine looked like molasses and probably had never been changed, I’m assuming that prior owners figured it didn’t matter due to low miles but brake fluid degrades over time.
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Unfortunately, the CV joints did not fix the problem I was looking to address, which is a grind/whine noise when I go on or off the accelerator, and also at about 19MPH. But, old ones were pretty rusty so still likely worth doing.
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Is the noise worse when turning? If so it’s probably the wheel bearings. They’re easy enough to check. Just jack up each wheel and spin it. If you feel or hear a grinding then they’re probably bad. Two bearings per wheel. If that isn’t it you maybe looking at a bad differential or possibly the motor.
Also if it’s new to you the noise maybe normal. Depending on the regen settings In the controller the motor can whine quite loud when coasting. Obviously if it’s noisy under acceleration this is not the problem.
I did not have a noise while turning but in a straight line there was a shimmy in the front end. Ended up replacing front wheel bearings which cured the issue.
Noise isn’t worse when turning, it’s definitely coming from the gearbox area both coming on and off the accelerator, and right around 18 MPH. I might try having the rear wheels re-balanced to see if it’s something related to harmonics, and unfortunately the side where it’s really loud is the side where I couldn’t get the brake drum off of the hub despite loosener, heat, and “persuasion”. So, hoping it’s not the bearings as that’ll be a PITA to pull apart.
I always have to hit the drum with a big hammer to get them to break loose. Hit between the wheel studs hard until it breaks loose. It probably is the wheel bearings. Usually when the bearings are bad you can just jack up the wheels and spin them. If you can hear or feel a grinding from the hub than it’s the bearings. If you take it apart also check the wheel cylinders. Clean them off and then pull the rubber boot back a little bit and see if brake fluid is in there. It should be dry, if it isn’t replace them. There are two bearings per wheel. The bearing number is 6006RS. I have change them without a press but you will need a big sledge hammer to drive the hub out. It’s much easier if you have a press.
Thanks, will do as the next project once I can figure out how to fabricate better brackets for the LED headlight update. I’m wondering if I can use a vice in place of a press, or maybe kludge something up with my floor jack.
I just replaced this part, and wanted to update the thread for those who will find themselves in the same situation.
Anyhow, as you can see in the picture(s), the stock spline (in the hub) sheared off on the driver’s side. Taking the kids to school … backing out of the driveway … jammed on the accelerator and BAM! Cart wouldn’t move. Glad it happened where I could push it back into the driveway. Ordered the CV replacements from NEV. Super fast shipping from them!
Some tips …
The stock U joint was rusted onto the transmission’s spline. I doused it with WD40 Penetrator, and tried to pry it away with a pry bar. Stuck. Tried the next day, doused more, still stuck. Finally, using a butane torch on the spline end inside the u joint for about 15-20 seconds allowed it to pry free. That felt good!
In any event, another poster, Electric Forum, posted above that he couldn’t get the tension clip on the transmission’s spline to work. I doused with WD40, centered the clip as best I could, mounted the new shaft in the spline up to the clip (as far as it would go), held the shaft straight, and whacked on the other end with a rubber mallet. It passed the clip and mounted properly.
I, too, was unable to get the hub end of the new shaft into the hub without removing the control arm.
But now it’s done. Good luck with yours.
An air chisel or pneumatic hammer takes them right off.