Rear Sway Bar 2016 +

This Mod is awesome. Huge difference. The car corners so much better. I think I wanna try a front sway bar. Speedway motors sells a “rear” kit that I think will work for me

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Ok I could not resist the “buy now” urge for the front sway bar kit. For $200 it seems to good to be true. That’s like 1/2 of what I have into the rear and all the parts come in 1 shipment.

And the front sway bar is the exact size 5/8 OD .065 as my rear bar (except this one is Solid)
My rear bar is Hollow or gun drilled not sure what that’s gonna do as far as weight. I have a buddy with a Gun drill laith so if it needs to be drilled to lighten its sway bar weight I can do that.

The solid bar will be way stiffer. Also, keep an eye on your shock mounts where the sway bar links are tied into, the extra stress may cays issues down the road

Hey Derek, any idea on what the solid bar would be like compared to the drilled bar I have in the rear seeing as how both bars are 5/8 .650 “the exact diameter” but the one in the front will be a solid bar. They said my Srilled bar in the rear is for a 1400 lb car. I wonder what weight car a 5/8 .650 bar would be for?

Also keep in mind. The length of the Sway bar arm (longer arms can change the spring rate) and where they are mounted on the a arms also
Can change the spring rate.

Sorry that’s something I’m unable to answer without having the exact specs and sizes of both bars, that and I am not sure my brain is up for that kind of math these days. Something else to consider is that it will also make your suspension stiffer when you hit a pothole or bump on only one side of the car since the sway bar will transfer some of the resistance to the other side. I would imagine that with the low weight and stiff suspension on these carts, it wouldn’t need to be very stiff…(disclaimer I’ve never ridden in a newer gem except my em1400 which is completely different).

Derick: #1 with my 50 series tires I avoid pot holes as best as I can but I know what your saying about the sway bar effecting ride quality when one side is effected Vs the other, Not a big deal. I would much rather have a flatter less top heavy unsafe feeling on high speed corners than a smoother ride when going over a pot holes. I understand on bumpy Un even roads the ride is not going to be a compliant with a sway bar Vs with out. Good thing the roads in my community just got paved and most of them are awesome :+1: #2 I’ll give them a call at speedway. They list a number for pounds per square inch of the bar. So I’m sure I can get an idea. I’m curious to see what a drilled bar Vs a solid bar is like as far as flex or sway. The rear drilled bar for my car was very light, it almost felt to light in your hand, but what do I know. It sure made a difference.

The Detailed info say’s the Bar is its a .650 5/8 od Bar & it lists it as 176 lb/ Inc whats that relate to?

Lb/inch should be torque. 176 seems reasonable.
What are you shooting for?
176 lb with 1 inch arm.

I have no Idea what I’m shooting for? I dont know how that 176 inc/lbs relates. The sway bar arms are 6-3/4 long

Divide 176 by 6 3/4 seems to me.
That would be the resistance to moving one wheel against the other.
I guess that increases with degree of twist. I would need to google torsion spring I guess.

From what I read rate is stated as lb/in/deg.
Maybe the deg Is taken as granted.

I shared the front sway bar project with a sprint car buddy and he said that solid bar with 6-3/4 arms and he said it was a pretty light bar set up so it should work out fine. In fact he said he didn’t think it would be very heavy and not do to much! That was great news. Caus I don’t need much more👍

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BTW I got some super strong grade 10.9 flange bolts to replace the factory shock Hardwear Boltdepot was awesome they had bolts McMastercar didn’t