Ok, Let me absorb this a bit.
With this info, I would not try and run the car again.
Stand by for further instructions.
How long was your gem parked at the bottom.of a lake brah?
Seriously. I’ve seen gulf coast flood recovery ones with better looking parts
Aloha all,
Thank you all for all your help and advise this far…
A little update on this….
I was able to get the motor rebuilt and it works great!…….I was able to test rebuilt motor with bypassing interlock….
My delta a charger was not working/charging, but the dc converter side of it still worked for all my accessories……
I assumed the issue with the interlock was all in the Delta Q charger, so I sent it off to FSIP to have it remanufactured…
Got it back and reinstalled it.
Turned the key on and I got the same “charging” screen on the display without the charger being plugged in……
I had recently charged all batteries independently to full with my 12v smart charger, but decided to charge the car fully again with the Delta Q to see if that would make any difference, but it didn’t.
Car works fine when I bypass the interlock by supplying battery pack voltage to interlock wire on car…
Any ideas as to what could be the issue with the interlock?……
Should I be getting battery pack voltage from the green interlock wire coming from the Delta Q when it’s not plugged in?
As always… thank you all for your help!!
I went back and looked at my photos of display prior to sending Delta Q in for repairs and ones I took after I reinstalled, and noticed a change from displaying “00” to now showing “99”….
Tried searching topics for an error code 99 and didn’t find anything.
Also search the e-series repair manual for an error code 99 and couldn’t find anything….
Does anyone know what this code is?
Sure its not just the SOC needs to be reset?
That is not an error code. (Note that there is no wrench illuminated).
Also note that the charge icon is lit up. This hints that the car is plugged in and charging?
When it is in this mode, the number displays a battery status. 99 is telling you that it is full.
AssyRequired…This is happening when the car is unplugged.
I installed the Delta Q, tested battery pack voltage, then turned on the main breaker, and the display shows the display like it is plugged in.
After seeing this, I wondered if the charger needed to be plugged in so it could run through a cycle…… So I plugged it in and let it charge the batteries to where the green light on the charger came on.
I unplugged the charger, and had the same result with the display still showing that is plugged in.
I then bypassed the interlock to see if I could run the car, and it worked fine…… display and all functions seem to be working as they should be.
I decided to take the car for a test drive, ran it for about 3-4 miles, and it ran great!!
I noticed the SOC bar on the display went down 1 bar in that distance.
Ok, so you can use the green wire (car harness) to bypass the interlock.
But do you have it going to the green wire coming from the charger? That is where it normally lives.
If yes- Verify that the green wire coming from the charger has B+ on it when charger is unplugged.
Yes, To bypass interlock I have put a wire from green wire on harness ( unplugged connection to charger) to battery + terminal on PSDM.
I did check harness green wire, from connection point to charger green, to PSDM for continuity and it was good.
I did test for battery pack voltage on green wire from Delta Q ( Delta Q green wire, to battery pack Neg - on PSDM, also to frame ground) after unplugging it and I had “nothing”… millivolts.
For some reason the interlock connection seems to be blown(or never fixed?). If you have time, you might want to check with FSIP on this. Possibly send it back? For now you will have to manually connect/disconnect your Interlock wire as you were doing before.
Just for future reference, Note that there are two electrical systems on this car. When measureing for B+, Your reference should always be the closest source for B-. (NOT the same as chassis Gnd).
When measuring for 12vdc, you can use Chass Gnd. NOT a random battery in the pack.
These two electrical systems are isolated from each other. If you are unsure of what wire you are measuring and you pick the wrong reference, you will probably get a weird result. (try using a different reference.
AssyRequired - Thanks for all your help!!
I will call FSIP Monday morning.
I can see this is a 6 year old thread, I can see the last response was 7 months ago. Im very new here and have been reading and learning and trying to catch up. This instant I dont think I have permissions to start a thread, hence Im here. I will wait til I can start a new thread, but this one has been incredibly helpful. I will say that Im in US Naval Base Guantánamo Bay, I just picked up an 08 Gem pickup with a questionable past. It was operational when I payed for it and the e brake switch gave out (rusted and crumbled) I was jumping the wires and would hear the relay and the brake light would go out…of I went. after about a week when I jump the brake switch wires I get no click at relay and light is on. I have been using thi9s site and learning. Once I get posting privelidge I will ask a more detailed query with photos. Thank You very much.
Hey Joe- Welcome to the group.
A new post?
Your ability to create a new post is probably just because you have not found the button yet.
Pretty much wherever you are, a speed/shortcut is to tap your “c” key on your keyboard. This will open up the editor window (‘c’ for create new topic). From there, you may need to change a few of the boxes that have auto filled(such as which group this will be posted in, and the subject you be referring to. Make it catchy and unique. In the body of your text, Include as many details as you can that may help to explain what is happening.
Brake light ON
Jumping the handbrake switch has mixed results. Sure, it will get you going(wires must be connected to GO), but leaving them connected will sound the steady beep when KeyOFF. This is the “handbrake not set” warning.
Since it sounds like you are jumping the handbrake switch, Is it possible that you let one of the wires touch the chassis/frame? If you measure the R/w wire, it should have +12v (ref ChassGnd). If not-> Check Fuse 10.
Yep- It is a little vague, but the handbrake loop gets power from this fuse.
If you DO have power on that wire, you need to check the function of the twin relays up under the dash at the windshield (on pass side).
One of them controls the light on the dash, the other makes it beep when Key is off. Sometimes just removing them from their sockets and reinstalling will clean the connections and the world is right again.
Sorry this one is going to be a long one.
It’s been quite sometime since I have been able to post on this topic and give some updates on this ongoing troubleshooting.
So I talked with FSIP about the interlock and went through testing with tech support and they determined that I should send the Delta Q back to them for repair…I did, they worked on it again and sent it back to me.
I installed it back in the GEM car and have the exact same results as before.
I went through another round of troubleshooting test with tech support and it was determined to ship it back to them again for repair…got it back, installed it in the car and have the same issue…(no pack voltage on the interlock wire coming from the Delta Q).
I decided to run the car around a bit to do some testing on the batteries and see how many miles I could get on a full charge before I sent the Delta Q back again for repair.
I got a little over 14 miles before it went into turtle mode and then finally cut me off with the battery meter showing 1 red bar.
I took a reading from the batteries but I didn’t write it down, and it’s been so long I have forgotten what they were exactly.
I seem to remember they were all in the lower 10v range.
I charged the car all the way back up and went to do some additional testing a few days later and I drove it for about 60 seconds and it stopped again and wouldn’t go.
I shut off the main disconnect and let it sit for couple of minutes and it started to go again and then died.
I checked all the batteries and they all tested fully charged, but it won’t go at all now and the brake light is on even when I release the brake.
I checked the brake relay to see if it was working, and it is.
I checked all the fuses and they’re all good.
I decided to check to see if all the other accessories are working still (they are) and when doing so I put the left turn signal on and noticed that the brake light starts flashing on and off at the same intervals as the blinker…the MPH & odometer also flash too, but intermittent with the service wrench and code 11…?
Any guesses on what the cause could be for these new issues?
As always, I really appreciate all your help!!
Another weird thing that happens with this issue….. I decided to try the accelerator to see if the car would do anything while the brake light was off for the split second, and it would engage the main contactors and jerk forward/backward.
Question1: When you are testing the green interlock wire coming from the charger, What are you using for reference? (where is your black meter probe touching?)
Q2: When you are doing this test- Is the charger plugged into the wall?
Q3: In the present config, Does the charger work properly? What is the current status of the pack? (what is the V if you place your meter probes across the B+ and B- on the psdm?)
Aloha AssyRequired!!
I am testing B- to the interlock wire coming from the charger.
I have tested it with charger plugged in, and with it unplugged.
Plugged in I am getting 350mV, and unplugged I get 6.9 - 9.8mV.
Charger seems to work perfectly except for this issue…
The battery pack is fully charged to 81.5V.
Batteries are 13.56V to 13.6…all the batteries are old and 2 of the batteries are older than the others, and that’s why they seem to drop lower than the others.
When I did the road test to see how many miles, I could get out of them I checked them all individually and they seem to stay within that voltage range as they all get depleted.
I driven the car quite a few times up and down the highway along the coast here doing 30-35 mph without any issues whatsoever, but they were only in trips of 4-8 mile trips.
Plugged the car in after those trips…it charged all the way back up and did it again.
I wanted to know for sure what distance I could go before it would go into turtle mode or shut off, so that’s why I pushed it the one time.