Interesting. MainBattSwitch still ON during this test?
Just for fun- Do the same test with your Reference probe on B+
When FSIP sends your charger back, Do they have any report with what they found/repaired?
I suspect the interlock wire voltage is fine, as car would not run without it. Do you agree? Measurment error?
No, The interlock has been a strange issue since he got the car. The only way the car runs is because he takes the green wire to B+ when he wants to drive.
Everything indicates the charger interlock leg is blown. This charger has been back to FSIP several (3?) times and I suspect they are just missing it because → FSIP.
The Brake Light issue was resolved a while ago, but it seems to have surfaced again. It apparently keeps the car from moving, so this is not a fluid level/sensor issue (that won’t stop the car). I am coming back around to this in a moment.
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Yes, main battery switch ON.
I tested it again as you suggested and it was interesting……charger unplugged, COM probe on B+ to interlock wire from charger I get -79.5V, so I checked to see what pack voltage was from B- to B+ at the PSDM and it is the same voltage ( pack voltage 79.5V after being unplugged for 12hrs.).
I plugged the charger in and did the test again in the same order and got 85.1V .
No FSIP didn’t ever give a report when they sent it back.
I had them do their Remanufacturer service.
Each time I received it back I have had the same issue….
I went through several rounds of troubleshooting with their techs and each time I get it back I have the same issue….
Each time I send it back it has cost me about $100 in shipping, so I’ve gotten a little frustrated.
This last time I got it back and it had the same issue I asked if it was even being quality checked to make sure that I would have B+ at the interlock wire before sending it back to me, and they got very defensive in their response back.
The last time I sent it back, they thought that an internal relay may be an issue, but when I got it back it still didn’t work (charger and converter work perfectly, but not interlock circuit).
They have been great to work with for additional troubleshooting, but it has been frustrating going through the troubleshooting with them, sending it back to them and then getting it back to have the same issue again, and again.
I had almost decided to just leave the interlock bypass( put it on a keyed power relay, or toggle switch) and not send it back again, but not sure if it is messing with something……like SOC meter or something else…… just don’t know anything about the charger to know what other issues I could be causing….
Interesting…
Can you follow the green interlock wire back to the charger. It will bundle up with a couple other wires. Can you show me how it joins and enters the charger harness? There were a couple different chargers and I want to see which one you have.
I will take on of that once I get home from work, but here are a couple photos of what I have when I had the cover off before sending to FSIP.
! IMG_1496|486x500](upload://fAaSJNoxFJBUsJD8WWKv1Yi8WN0.jpeg)
The red circle is around the interlock wire where it goes into the charger.
The other picture is of the other wires that come out of the charger and plug into the PSDM J4
I see your correctly referenced circles, but which one are you calling B+ and which one is B- ? (Just making sure)
Oddly, this is showing hints of being a B- source switched interlock. I’m not sure how this got into this car(previous owner swapped in by error?)
-The increased V I understand because the charger kicked in.
But…
-This should have gone to zero when plugged in.
-Are you sure about the polarity change in your test? Or did you switch your probes on the second test? (Why did meter change to reading Pos?)
I am testing B+ from the 72V+ post on PSDM (main disconnect ON) to B- post on PSDM.
In one of the rounds of the troubleshooting with FSIP, they said that some 2013 car had chargers that were B- to the interlock instead of B+………. But I’m not sure if this is the OEM charger…..
I know the owner I bought it from took it to the local Polaris dealer to have it repaired after someone tried to steal it and damaged the key switch.
He said it worked fine prior to someone trying to steal it.
He told me the dealer couldn’t figure out what was wrong with it….
The owner before that was a local wedding event venue and they would’ve taken it to the Polaris dealer as well for any maintenance/repairs.
I did the troubleshooting from the service manual and determined the controller was probably bad, so I pulled the PSDM and the controller and sent them to FSIP for testing…
PSDM tested no fault, but the controller tested faulty, so I had them remanufacture it.
Yes, Voltage going up was from charger kicking in.
Sorry, I should’ve been more clear….. the polarity didn’t change when charger was plugged in.
This is the biggest crock of s#it that I have ever heard!!! This makes no sense. I would have asked for another tech at that point. It also explains why FSIP has the reputation it does.
Hopefully you volunteered the info to the tech that when your car interlock wire is taken to B+ that it clears and the car moves just fine.
One more method to verify this-
Remove the Red and Black charger wires.
Charger unplugged.
Meter set to Ohms.
Place one of your meter probes in the Green wire from the charger.
Touch the other meter probe to the Red wire and look for connection(Green and Red).
Then touch the same probe on the Black wire and look for connection. (Green and Black)
Confirm what you see.
When plugged in, the connection found it the testing above should open up. (guessing it will not, which means the relay is messed up and on the last pass to FSIP they might not have even looked at it).
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Sorry, I should’ve been more clear….. the polarity didn’t change when charger was plugged in.
It’s little things like this that can drive remote tech crazy and why I ask so many repeat questions. One little slip like this can send us both down a very different direction and a waste of time. The astronauts would have missed the moon for something like that?? You need to be more accurate with relaying your findings.
A Gibbs slap for you!
I accept that!!
I love that show!!
Yes I did share my findings with FSIP.
I had read through some of the topics on interlock circuits after I got the charger back from FSIP the second time and it didn’t work. I tried the bypass (B+ to car interlock) and the car worked fine, so I shared that info with FSIP and they told me to ship the charger back for evaluation…… you know the rest of the story.
I did the test on the interlock as you suggested.
No continuity on the red wire, or black wire when charger unplugged.
With the charger plugged in, I had continuity on green and black wire.
Anyone have any thoughts on what could be causing this strange phenomenon with the blinker….?
Blinker on…. In between blinks the brake light goes off and the car contactors will engage and it will move for that brief moment between blinks…? 
I’m definitely no expert but folks on this forum helped me track down a problem where my cart was getting a code -11. At first it was running intermittently, then I was getting -81 or -82, which eventually just turned into -11 and it wouldn’t move at all. After replacing a few thigs, getting my controller refurbed by FSIP and then buying a different controller, I went back to one of the first things I was told to do which was to make sure all the connectors were good. Instead of just a visual, I sprayed each with contact cleaner and then applied dielectric grease on practically every connector under the dash and hood. For the 23-pin connector I took it apart and squeezed all the female wipers closer together for good contact. It completely fixed the problems I’d been troubleshooting for months, and from what others have said, connector issues can cause some wacky problems.
Ok, So far we have figured out that the charger side of the interlock wire is incorrect/messed up, and FSIP techs totally dropped the ball (not the first time this has been an issue). You might want to call them and voice some sort of displeasure if this was a repair that you paid for. Either get some credit for the last shipping or have them send you a shipping tag if they would like another try at it (but that would mean your cart is down again). It it were my company, I would at least want to know that somebody dropped the ball.
Back to the other issue.
Parking Brake Light
Whenever you have two not related systems (Parking Brake Light and Turn Signals) affecting each other you need to look for what they have in common. → They both use Chassis Gnd.
To back up this theory, try one of the other 12v accessories to see if it has the same effect. (headlights, brake pedal, etc).
Start at the place where they all tie in and connect to the chassis. It is a cluster of black wires and a screw to the frame on the firewall down under the PSDM. Make sure they are all clean and tight.
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I checked the brake relay to see if it was working, and it is.
What did you do to verify the brake relay is working?
Go back up to post 29 in this thread and review the Handbrake Loop Test. What do you get?
Great advice!!….
So I went through the Chassis Gnds and found some of them were loose and not getting a good connection.
I checked for any corrosion, cleaned them up and tightened them back down.
I did the drop hand brake test with key off for the loud beep.
It gave me the loud beep.
I did it again after moving the wires on the switch and it was intermittent, so I checked all the connections to the switch and found one of the connections was a little loose and had some corrosion.
Cleaned it up and tightened the spade connector and now the car drives without any issues again!