I’m getting nothing at pin 9 or 7. What’s the work around?
Should be under warranty. Get it replaced.
Work around is last resort. Injecting an external 5v supply to pot high. P9 wire. Wire to pot, NOT controller.
PS. If it has same symptom as before, it was not rebuilt. Repaired maybe, but a rebuild would never have the same issue. Unless wire #9 is shorted to #8. Unplug from controller and ohm it out. Should be more than 2k ohm.
You can also cut or remove wire #9 to see if 5v comes back on P9.
The controller is under warranty. Thinking that’s the next step. No way both throttles (and yours) is bad. I’m going to check for short then pull it off and send back. I really appreciate all your help. Once we get this resolved I’ll shoot you a throttle.
Update: I sent the controller back and they ran a bench test and said they could not recreate the code 21. They suggested that the wiring might be bad. If I cut the wires from the controller and run new lines to the controller - would that be a good next step? Hesitant to cut into the factory wiring but that’s the only thing I can think of at this point.
Stomp the brakes really quickly. Ours stay on after I turn the car As soon as I do that, they go off.
Cut P9 wire only. Check for voltage on controller end.
It should also clear the fault.
If that doesn’t work, I’ll test one here.
I went ahead and replaced the entire wiring harness. Now I’m getting no movement and error code 5 when I push the accelerator more than half way down. I checked the fuses and they are still good.
Good news is that I’m. I longer getting the 21 code.
Sorry in advance for the long post.
I have been reading through this thread because I am having a similar issue with my new to me, 2014 E4 that I recently purchased.
It had completely dead batteries and was not working at the time of purchase.
Slow charged the batteries all the way back up with my 12v charger and started testing.
I noticed that my Delta Q charger doesn’t seem to work either…… will not light up when plugged in.
I went through the troubleshooting guides in the manual and it determined that the PSDM was bad…. I contacted FSIP to see if they had a new or remanufactured in stock, but they didn’t, so I sent them mine to be checked out….During my testing I had noticed that there was corrosion on the controller 23 pin connectorSo I decided to send the controller in for testing as well.
They got back to me saying the PSDM tested “no fault”, but the controller was bad, so I had them remanufacture the controller, but not the PSDM.
I recently got them back so I installed the new controller and put the PSDM back in place.
Digital screen and all the accessories work properly.
The car still will not drive.
No error codes, but the screen shows that it is plugged in and charging when it’s not.
I assumed the charger was faulty and somehow sending bad signals that could be making the controller think it is plugged in and keeping the interlock from letting it drive.
I read through some other threads on bypassing the interlock to see if that was the issue, so I tried one out( jumped green wire from gem harness to 72v+) and it made the “charging “ go away, but the brake light is still on and won’t drive.
I have tried some of the testing suggested in this thread, but still haven’t been able to identify the cause of an issue.
I thought I would see if there was any updates on what had happened with your car before I start cutting and replacing wires in my own……
Thoughts?
And thank all of you soo very much for all your help!!
Those forum is very informative and helpful when working on these cars.
You missed the last step where you drop/release the handbrake and(normally) the light goes away and the car will drive.
if Brake light still active, do the First step to verify the handbrake safety loop is even active.
- MainBattSw ON, KeyOFF, Drop Brake - The dash should produce a steady beep. You can’t really miss it. It is somewhere between ear splitting and nails on a chalkboard.
To silence beep- KeyON or lift brake handle.
Verify(Y/N)
Your response/result will direct next set of instructions.
Thanks for your response!
I did the test you suggested, and I do not get the ear splitting beep.
I performed this test without the interlock bypassed, and with it bypassed and got the same result each time.
I tested the E-brake switch with my multi-meter (tested for continuity when switched) to verify that it is working, and it is.
The photo showing the “charging” is what the display shows without bypassing interlock.
The other photo is showing the display after bypassing interlock…… brake light still on
Try not to jump too far ahead. One step at a time.
+12v is going through the hand brake loop. If you are looking at the switch, it comes in via the R/w wire and leaves on the Tan wire when brake is down. (switch is closed). The red wire should be on the Top/offset tab on the switch, and the Tan is on the next one down (NOpen tab).
Verify that you have 12vdc on that Red wire.
Confirm(Y/N?)
If No-
Since it sounds like you recently pulled the dash (and/or the PSDM), this wire was probably pulled off its’ feed (up under the dash) and may not have been placed back on the correct tab. Locate and identify where it is parked.
It should be placed on the PSDM S6. (If it was somewhere else- I need to know)
Verify- Where is Red Wire?
Also - Is there 12v on S6?
By parking brake, I’m assuming that you are referring to the hand brake?? If so, on the hand brake bracket there is a switch with three wires connected to it. Engage the hand brake and with your finger push the switch in and out a few times. Check that the metal arm that pushes that button in isn’t broken off. If it is sticky or broken, replace the switch. Only two screws and wires as they were on the old one. I got one off of Amazon for six bucks… what really concerns me is that this is the first thing that should have been checked by the dealer.
Great catch!
Okay, I had the red wire plugged into the S5 location (the photo I took of that area prior to dismantling was from an angle and it looked like the wire was on S5, but I was mistaken), red wire is on top tab of switch, and I do have 12v (13.55v) on S6.
I moved red wire to S6 location and did the test on E-brake again, and got the desired, dreaded beep.
The “charging” symbol is still on the display though, and will not move.
Next- Check the twin relays. They are over on the right side of the dash under the windshield.
MainSwOn, KeyOff, Drop hand Brake. (dash produces continuous beep).
Grab onto the outboard relay and wiggle/pull it out of it’s holder. (that’s the my car is set up)
If you grab the correct one, the beep will stop.
If beep continues, grab the other one.
In either case, grab the other one anyway. The purpose here is to swap these two relays. If one is not working then the problem will move to the other position.
Sometimes just moving the relays around cleans the connections in the holder and fixes the issue.
Check Dash light - Verify if is still active, or now cleared.
I had previously checked these relays with multi-meter and a 9v battery to see if they’re working properly and found them to be good, but I also tested them as you suggested to make sure to follow check list…
Dreaded beep did shut off when I pulled out the relay on the left…. Display had no changes when relay pulled out, and also had no change when replaced with other relay…. Still showing “charging” on display regardless of relays being in or out.
Edit:
Wait… wait… wait… Hold the bus…
When did the “charging” symbol show up to this party?!?!?!?
Did you mention this before and I missed it???
(scrolling back up to see)
I saw that you messed with the interlock at one point but it looked like you figured it out and put it back (so I ignored it).
(I had all this typed up so I’m leaving it in case this was a mistake)
Back to our regular programming.
Chasing the overactive brake light.
K - now we are getting into the real meaty bits.
Direct your attention to the relay NOT associated with the beep. In your case- the one on the Right.
Look at the wires going up into the base. There will be 4.
- Tan and black will be the 12v coil wires
- Or/Bk will be B- feed from the upper post on the front of the PSDM Verify that this is connected (another wire easy to misplace)
- Blu/OR - This wire goes to your controller. It needs to see B- to clear the brake light off the screen. Remove the cube relay and run a jumper wire from this connection down to B- on the front of the controller.
The light on the dash should clear and the car should operate.
Confirm(Y/N)?
Ha ha…… sorry, it was probably easy to miss in the original novel I posted .
Yes the “charging” has been there since the beginning of my posts, and is shown in the photo.
I did some reading of other threads about bypassing it, but only wanted to do that as a last resort for testing.
I did try the bypass before, but I hooked it back up as it should be to do the testing that you’ve suggested.
Following your testing suggestions, we have identified that I had a wire in the wrong location and are on a roll!!
I did try the bypass again once we found that I had put the red wire in the wrong location……
…this test resulted in the brake light going off, and the car would move…… but it was very “chattery”….like a brush is sticking or something so I didn’t push it to drive at all….
I wanted to see what your thoughts are before going any further.
I can do the testing that you suggested in your post if you think it would be a good pursuit to verify…
Thoughts?
Thanks again for all your help!!
This is where I saw that you figured it out for yourself.
Yes, that charge light needs to be off.
The chattery sounds like stuck brushes or just dirty comms due to it sitting. How long has it been sitting? I thought you said that you had it driving for a while?
Try jacking the front of the car so the wheels spin off the ground. The brushes might free up, or clean the comms if you let it spin for a while without load. If it is really bad, then discontinue.
What motor is this?
Sorry, yes I had read from another thread how to bypass the interlock, and had tried it for testing….and was nervous about doing it without getting further guidance on what could be the cause of issues.
Okay, so I finally got back home to do more tests.
No, I’ve never driven the car…
I purchased it not working……guess I needed another project/headache.
I’m not sure how long the car was sitting for sure, but the guy I purchased it from said for at least 6 months to a year……
He said that someone had tried to steal it, and ruined the ignition in the process. He said he had taken to our local Polaris dealership to try to fix it but they couldn’t ever get it running, so it sat for a very long time before selling to me……
I jacked the front of the car up, and rotated the tires a bit by hand.
Rotors are a bit corroded/rusty, but rotate fairly free.
I tried running the motor to see how it would work, and to see how the brushes would act.
It started spitting sparks like a motor with bad brushes.
I ran it for a few seconds in Low, then switched it to High and ran it for a few more seconds.
It didn’t seem to get any better.
I tried it in reverse as well, but it wouldn’t do anything.
I then tried it again in Low, but it would do anything…… same result in High.
Tested the battery pack for voltage just to make sure they hadn’t dropped off too low and they are still at 73.9v….
Motor is an International Winding Inc 11 hp.