I’m getting nothing at pin 9 or 7. What’s the work around?
Should be under warranty. Get it replaced.
Work around is last resort. Injecting an external 5v supply to pot high. P9 wire. Wire to pot, NOT controller.
PS. If it has same symptom as before, it was not rebuilt. Repaired maybe, but a rebuild would never have the same issue. Unless wire #9 is shorted to #8. Unplug from controller and ohm it out. Should be more than 2k ohm.
You can also cut or remove wire #9 to see if 5v comes back on P9.
The controller is under warranty. Thinking that’s the next step. No way both throttles (and yours) is bad. I’m going to check for short then pull it off and send back. I really appreciate all your help. Once we get this resolved I’ll shoot you a throttle.
Update: I sent the controller back and they ran a bench test and said they could not recreate the code 21. They suggested that the wiring might be bad. If I cut the wires from the controller and run new lines to the controller - would that be a good next step? Hesitant to cut into the factory wiring but that’s the only thing I can think of at this point.
Stomp the brakes really quickly. Ours stay on after I turn the car As soon as I do that, they go off.
Cut P9 wire only. Check for voltage on controller end.
It should also clear the fault.
If that doesn’t work, I’ll test one here.
I went ahead and replaced the entire wiring harness. Now I’m getting no movement and error code 5 when I push the accelerator more than half way down. I checked the fuses and they are still good.
Good news is that I’m. I longer getting the 21 code.