"I suggest 4 x 12s 44v modules for 100ah 88volts.
I can wire a harness from bms to the 4 modules.
The Chargery bms-24t is the easiest to use.
Bms $350
Harness wired and tested $100
Spoof and charger interface to bms $50
Today I’m going to pull the batteries out and put them in my other one and see where I can fit my new batteries. Any suggestions on what settings I should have the charger on my Zivan Charger for DEKA Dominators there 98 A.H. @ 20 HRS?
Thanks
No help on the zivan.
I can send the dq programmer along with something else.
Don’t get in a hurry. You can mount the batteries and test drive with nothing else needed.
This is what I have.
48 cells I’m using 3 sets of 12 and 2 sets of 6 for the 48. I’m trying to make it hard for you.
My charger needs to be reprogrammed.
I want a bms to babysit everything.
I need your spoof to make it work and not get error 16. I have a 2008 so I believe I have a rebuilt T-4.
and everything you said I need.
I have all the leftover items from the Chevy Volt along with 2 - 24 cell packs. The thought was to sell them to help offset the cost of the batteries.
I can’t really test drive with error 16 and I’m worried that I could cause a bad cell. So to really test I need a charger and a spoof. It seams like a bms would help me protect my pack while I test.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Brad
Another concern of mine is not having all the cells balanced out with there parallel partners.
Not the ones in the pack but the 2 packs that are parallel with the other packs.
Would it make sense to charge one parallel set to max then the other set to max then parallel them together as one pack or I’m I just over thinking this.
Thanks,
Brad
I have what you need. My harness connects parallel partners cell to cell forcing balance between them.
Standard harness connects up to 3 modules in parallel terminating in jst-xh plugs for bms.
Also have harness that connects two 6s in series making it look like a 12s to the harness. Of course you can also use orange Volt wires and hard wire manually to do the same thing.
I have Chargery bms-24 and Chinese 24s bms for about +$50 over waiting for delivery from China.
If you run discharge through bms it will trip often over 300a. So I use 70a model mostly.
The Chargery displays and tracks current through external shunt with out overcurrent issue.
I can program charger or rent programmer with $200 deposit.
Send a drawing of battery positions and power wiring so I can see if harness fits.
Harness jst pins need to be inserted in housings proper order for specific bms.
Best if you do it, so you understand sequence. Time consuming but not extremely difficult. Measure voltage at each pin and insert in bms plug. 0v, 4v, 8v, etc.
Grant and Kinghappy can share bms -24 info.
Top is standard harness. Connects up to 3 modules in P.
Black circle are random wired jst plugs. Pins must be inserted in proper order for specific bms requirements. Although I can do this for a (high) price, it’s better for the batteries to be wired in the order you want them first. And for you to understand the wiring.
You will need two of these. One for the high pair (B+) and one for the low pair (B-)
Bottom harness adapts two 6s to fit a 12s plug. This is wired properly, but red is high and black is low. Plugs are not keyed. Any mis-connection will burn pins off battery sockets.
Only two of the blue plugs used in your case. One to a 12s and one to the two 6s.
My suggestion would be to start with the low harness to bms. Connect and test to be working with the first 12 cells.Them move on to the more complex high modules.
OK that makes sense.
Just to double check.
The two blue plugs for the high set, one plugs into the 12s and the other one plugs into the harness that plugs into the two 6s.
So the best way to get you some money is PayPal? Someone said friends and family is the best way to send it.
$610.00 Total.
Thanks
Yes, all 3 plugs are the same. Wired pin to pin.
Once wired they can not be interchanged high to low. Mark everything as you go.
Friends and family= no fees.
Send another payment of $12 payment for services, so I can print a label from paypal for shipping.
I’ll get the parts together.
Not sure if putting this here or somewhere else but my 2003 goes 25 mph with out the speed sensor plugged in. It doesn’t show speed when it is plugged in but can get up to 25 mph. Any suggestions on how to fix this. I can’t get my MM to work if it doesn’t read the sensor. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
Strange??? I didn’t think a car would go more then 5mph with out the SS pluged in. You got me? All the cars I have ever had throw a code and don’t wanna move when the SS is unplugged or magnet broken
Exactly, thought the same thing when first mentioned. Must be that the controller is getting the reading, but speedometer is not.
Try the mm. See if speed limit goes up.
Right now my charger is acting up blinking like the battery is to low to charge.
Grant West has a video of the problem any idea on how to fix it?
I looked into upgrading the software in the controller but can’t find any updated software to load into the controller…
Any help would be great.
Thanks.
I disconnected the wiring for the charger from the GEM and hot wired a separate battery taking the positive to the positive battery the ground and the white wire with out the Thermistor to the ground of the battery and it seems to be working fine. I wonder if this means the Thermistor is bad?
I did not disconnect or change the green wire.
I also down graded from Firmware: 1.05 Software: 2.12 to Firmware:1.05 Software 1.26.2
The software to my knowledge hasn’t changed or fixed anything.
FYI
That video I took was to show the error code I was getting. That charger ended up being bad.
But I can’t be 100% sure it was all Charger. The battery that the car had in it was dead as dead. So I’m pretty sure the battery was out of voltage range for the charger to work. So either the charger died and that’s what killed the battery OR the battery killed itself and then the charger would not charge a dead battery back to life, sort of a chicken or egg scenario. My fix was to R&R (remove and replace) both. Sorry I didn’t have time to investagate what did what, I was in thrash mode and was trying to put the car back on the road and out to the owner not play CSI. Sorry I could not be of more help.
Is!!! #1 your battery pack is with in voltage range of the chargers ability?
is the white wire coming from the delta q hooked to (battery - neg)
If the answer is yes to both above then most likely your charger needs to be fixed, or replaced, David is the man when it comes to loading programs and or fixing Delta Q’s
