It looks like I just sent Brad a bunch of parts.
I need a refresher to be of assistance, if it was over an hour ago, I won’t remember.
Sorry!
@Inwo I Know how you feel. I have all your goodies. Any luck with updating the software for the charger. I have the 177 alg. and that isn’t a problem but the software I downgraded with what was on the cd but would like to upgrade if there is somewhere to get that.
Thanks
@grantwest The battery is 24c chevy volt so it is over voltage not under. I hot wired or direct-wired a set of batteries to the charger and got it to work. I think when I bolted up the new set of batteries I damaged the Thermister so the white wire doesn’t get the ground connection it needs to work and that is how we got the red double blinking light.
172.enc is for lithium.
White wire becomes “enable”.
Connects to B- or to bms-24 through interface wire.
To connect to bms, use chg/dchg port. Connect white wire from charger to interface.
Interface is an open collector npn with an led in base circuit. When bms output goes “high” led illuminates, and it pulls white wire to B-.
Just to make sure I’m doing this right v1_172.enc is the software for the charger and AlgId177-v1_03.enc is the algorithm for the lithium batteries?
Yes, the 172 is needed for all lithium profiles. afaik
I’m working on re-pining and thought I read that there is an internal jumper for 8+ to 9- and 16+ to 17- or is that something that has to be added to the wiring harness?
Thanks
Needs to be added. Use one of the extra wires and connect the two pins externally. I use a red wire tap.
There will also be duplicate wires where there are series connections from battery to battery.
I generally connect both to bms using the same method.
Good thing jst are easy to re-pin. I rarely get through a harness without a mistake.
No problem on that but I have another one for you.
I think the BMS is messed up. I didn’t have do redo any of my connections so I’m not sure what happened.
Everything was great on the low set then I connected the high set and for some reason it reads 22 and 23 wrong.
I double checked everything and even connected 17-24 to the first connector with everything else disconnected and got this.
Because the second connection reads everything just fine I’m pretty sure it is the BMS.
I connected a battery checker for RC Lipos before I plugged it into the BMS just as another precaution.
I thought it was the 12c battery so I tried one of the other ones in the parallel pair and it did the same thing. Any suggestions?
Ohm pin to adjacent pin on bms. A shorted shunt transistor will show a lower reading.
Two other things are possible.
A burned trace internally. Or miscalibration. Did you by chance get into an odd looking calibration screen? I doubt it, as all readingsmwould be wacky.
I forwarded to the designer.
You can also send it to me for testing.
Nice job, by the way. 
The Ohm readings are all the same except for the first 2 not including the -
1+ to 2+ .126 on the 2M Scale
2+ to 3+ .311 on the 2M Scale
All the rest are .511
3+ to 4+ .511 on the 2M Scale.
4+ to 5+ .511 etc.
I don’t remember seeing an odd calibration screen.
Do you think I could just leave the plug for 17 to 24 plugged in and leave the other 2 unplugged to see if it maybe a group wiring problem or is that a bad idea?
Would there be any reason to open it up and see if there are any visual clues of what could be wrong with it?
They are high enough that nothing seems shorted.You can send it to me. I’ll check it.
I don’t know if changing anything is a good idea.
12+ and 13- have one wire from each battery harness connected to it.
" jumper for 8+ to 9- and 16+ to 17- "
The rest are straight forward.
Ok Sounds good. What should I send you?
Only need the main unit.
I’d send a replacement right away, but I need to know what’s going on first.
No problem. I’ll send back the programmer too.
I replaced the speed sensor and now it shows up on the display. Nice to have a $20 fix on something. 
And of course, the MM works now too.
Bms was the same here. Replacement is on the way.