Hi All,
I’m wondering about the switch mounted in the PB-6. I thought it would close to energize the contactor just as the throttle is pressed a little. However after reading this description;
“In addition there is a safety switch inside that helps prevent starting the EV with the gas pedal floored. PB-6: 0-5K Resistance with Micro Switch for Contactor Control.”
I now think the switch DEenergizes the contactor if the throttle is pressed to the floor.
What is the operation of the switch in the PB-6?
Qmavam
It doesn’t have anything to do with opening and closing the contactor. Its to enable or disable the start (key) input on your controller. If it disengages, the controller does not get the start signal and will not power the motor. Its to keep you from starting at full throttle. Once you release the throttle, it enables the controller and you’re in business.
The contactor is totally separate, and should be controlled by your safety switches (emergency brake, ignition switch, charger plugged in…etc).
Lots of people ask, I’m thinking Curtis should explain it a little better.
Hi frodus,
We have been here before, but I keep seeing different information.
The page below from Alltrax shows the solenoid controlled by the foot switch (pg1) and a written description about the connection on pg3 under “Why are contactor ratings so important?”
I understand the safety shut off job of the solenoid, and expect to have a push down switch to DEenergize the solenoid.
I’ll try to draw a schematic in the next few days and let the group make correction suggestions.
Qmavam
lots of golf carts and forklifts (the ones these controllers were built for) use a “foot switch” that turns the contactor on when you just start to go… but you don’t want it to work that way.
You don’t want your contactor to drop out every time you let off the throttle.
You want to enable disable the keyswitch input. Contactor should en gage when all safety is in place and key is on and the start button is pressed. Precharge should happen when the key switch is on.
Hi frodus,
Thanks for the schematic, I’ve been looking and didn’t find any like you posted.
The link you gave shows that when the throttle microswitch is closed it enables the controller and energizes the solenoid, and when the throttle microswitch opens it unenables the controller and DEenergizes the solenoid.
Meaning your contactor is going to drop out every time you let off the throttle.
frodus, have patience with me, I just want to understand it.
Regarding the PB-6;
Can you tell me at what point the microswitch switches, at the start of throttle travel or at the end of throttle travel?
And, does it open or close?
oops, I thought it was after the safety disconnect and before the microswitch. I’m sorry.
It looks like how they wire it, they disable the contactor from even closing if the throttle is NOT released. The only problem I see, is that every time you let off, the contactor closes. Every time you’re at a stop light, it drops out. I don’t know if thats how people drive their cars, but I don’t do that on my motorcycle.
[QUOTE=frodus;4892]oops, I thought it was after the safety disconnect and before the microswitch. I’m sorry.
It looks like how they wire it, :). The only problem I see, is that every time you let off, the contactor closes. Every time you’re at a stop light, it drops out. I don’t know if thats how people drive their cars, but I don’t do that on my motorcycle.[/QUOTE]
Oh, so you have an electric motorcycle, I just went to your page and looked at it. Wow, nice job!
The wording of your post has me confused!
But if you (or anyone) knows the answers to the questions below I think it will help me clear my confusion.
Regarding the PB-6;
Can you tell me at what point the microswitch switches, at the start of throttle travel or at the end of throttle travel?
And, does it open or close?
Thanks, Qmavam
We have a curtis throttle in another car we’re working on. It “switches” when you barely press on the throttle. THere are 2 contacts in it. One normally open, one normally closed. So, when you press the throttle a little, you either make or break the contact depending on how you wire it.
The way they have it in the schematics, it kills ALL power when you take your foot off the throttle.
Post this on EVDL and see what some of the other EV guys use. We just use it to disable the input to the key input on the controller, and it doesn’t kill all power, it just won’t let the controller start up.
Thanks for the info about the switch. “It “switches” when you barely press on the throttle.” and the switch has N.0. and N.C contacts.
The job here seems to be safety, so as long as you perform that task, there seems to be more than one way to do the wiring.
I think I have got all the info I can about the PB-6 but tell me what EVDL is.
Interesting the PB-6 uses a 270 degree pot, but only 90 degrees of travel.
Thanks, Qmavam
Oh, I was mistaken, by the looks of it I thought it was a standard 270 degree pot. (somewhere I saw that someone wrote “the other part of the pot measured 5k to 20k.”) That didn’t make perfect sense to me, but it did make me think the pot was a 20k 270 degree pot.
Need to do a little work on my motor mount brackets today. I’m trying to modify this go kart without welding on the frame. It’s a 1963 Fox Kart that had a McCulloch MC7 engine on it. I may want to return it to original someday.
This is supposed to be a project to get my 14yr old son interested in something more than video games! His involvement is not as much as I’d hoped, but he’s learning a few things along the way. I’m hoping as he sees progress he’ll get more involved.
Thanks again, Qmavam
