Hello all, I am having an issue with a 2010 e4 model. The car will take off fast, but will slow down to nothing in less that 30 seconds. Battery pack shows 74volts, and when I plug the charger in I continue to get a red flashing light. It is a delta q charger. I did send the motor out to emp and had it freshened up. Car had sat for about a month with the breaker turned off. I don’t feel like this is a battery issue. Batteries are only 3 years old. What do I need to ck?
3 years old is over half it’s expected life “if well maintained” and can be EOL if not.
Only way to eliminate the batteries is to fully charge, let sit for 1-2 hours and chart all battery voltages. then do a load test by putting in drive and applying low throttle while holding the brakes and measuring a battery. Then repeat for each battery.
One weak battery will pull down the whole pack even when 3 years old.
New user name maybe? “Gofastbriefly67” is available.
J/k. Doug is on the right track to getting you sorted out.
“Gofastbriefly67” is available.
There needs to be a Laugh button. Instead- I insert here →
Yes- @dougl is on the scent.
I will also add:
You measured 74v when? This is important, but you will see that once you start taking notes.
When you plug in to charge you note a flashing red light? This is not a good sign.
First make sure your main breaker is switched on before you plug in the car.
If you still see a red light after the boot/test sequence, see if it is blinking a pattern. Count the flashes between the pauses.
Report back your findings.
You are to funny lol
74 volts is sitting still. When it does run, the pack voltage drops to 72.5 when driving full throttle. I will ck the charger flash code now. Charger actually started charging. I have been charging each battery 1hr each. Hope it is just low voltage from sitting.
Be aware that lead acid or gel batteries do not like being left for long in any discharged state. They should be charged fully as soon as possible to keep good healthy battery chemistry. So if even one of those batteries went down to 11 or even 12.0 volts for weeks then it has diminished capacity and will effect how the whole string of batteries operate and how they charge.
This is why owning one of these requires a little bit of understanding and how to use a multi-meter. Hopefully there’s some good capacity still left.
Ok just took off charge, took off and slows down again. I will see where voltage is.
No codes on screen and cart is sitting at 79.1 with key off. It won’t move at all right now when I hit pedal. No voltage drop, just solenoid activation.
Push the cart back a foot and try again.
Ok I will try that. It’s definitely not a battery issue. I think it is either the pedal input or controller at this point. Just have no idea how to test this ge controller and pedal input. Motor is new by the way. Speed sensor and thermal sensor is good to go.
Pushing the car back and forth didn’t do anything at all.
K- that was before I saw you said motor was new. It was to check for a dead spot on the comm.
You are getting Clunk from main contactor?
Remove/inspect the main plug on the controller. Anything odd in there? it might be a bad contact.
Time to start checking for pedal input.
Get a needle and either poke through the insulation of the wires(which I hate to do) or partially remove the back of the 23 pin plug and probe straight down into the back of the pin. Jack up the front of the car so the wheels are off the ground just in case it takes off on you.
Your targets are P7, P8, & P9.
-Or- Check for power going through the controller.
Car jacked up, meter on A1 and A2. Have someone step on the pedal and you should see V going up and down with pedal press.
Also at F1 and F2.
Ok, I will do these test and respond back soon
usually a bad pedal will throw an error code. Where are you located?
I have zero error codes. I am in Gainesville fl
My daughter is starting Uf in August so I will be up there a lot.
Check throttle voltage, If not that probably controller.
Go Gators!!! I will do some testing tomorrow