I just purchased a 2005 GEM EL, and I had a few questions. The current batteries are from 2009 (GEM gel batteries) and I am currently charging them individually. I’m not so sure they will be functional, so I’m considering upgrading to lithium batteries (possibly the Nissan Leaf). The charger is a Delta-Q model 912-7200. Can it be reprogrammed for lithium or do I need a whole different charger?
Also, does the controller need to be modified or anything else I’m not thinking about to switch to lithium?
I also am interested in a lift of at least 4" and adding larger tires (more off road type). Has anyone put a winch on their Gem? We have a few soft spots on the ranch where this would be used the most and I was thinking it might be a good backup.
Using 10 leaf modules. 20s, everything will work fine. Just wire them in.
For charging, DQ can be reprogrammed IF it doesn’t have the built in DC to DC converter.
Model should be newer than DQCP About $100 with shipping both ways.
Most will recommend bringing out small wires from each cell to monitor for condition and balance.
I would like to recommend what looks to be a better deal, but it’s untested. Bosch 75ah/75v new battery from Ebay.
Thanks, it looks like the dc-dc converter is separate. Where do I send it to get reprogramming done?
I saw the Bosch that you posted a link to on another thread, and it looks pretty interesting. It looks like the eBay price doesn’t include a BMS. How hard is that to hook up? It looks like it weighs a little more than the leaf set ups, but still a whole lot less than the current batteries. Is there any concerns about the higher aH rating compared to the leaf packs?
AH = more is better. 10% more is 10% more miles. I don’t know of anyone using Bosch. The Leaf is well tested.
A bms is easy to connect in theory. It will not tolerate mistakes in wiring though.
I’ll pm my email to get you in touch with Travis.
In the Bosch listing on eBay for the 72 volt version, on the third picture you can see a date on the battery of 04/12/13. I’m assuming that is the manufacture date, so why is the seller claiming they are new?
I ended up getting the newer Leaf cells (prior to your email Enwo) and received the reprogrammed charger back. I got it wired in and reinstalled the charger and the Gem started right up. I took it on a little test run to make sure the brakes were functional and then took a few people for a ride. It was about 3 miles total. I hooked up the charger and it stopped when the BMS showed 82.75V (charger algorithm is for 83.11). I took it on another run of about 4 miles and it ran pretty well, but there was a little grinding noise coming from the front end(it sounded like it was in sync with the tire revolution). BMS showed 80.9V.
I got it back to the house and jacked up the front end. When I spin one of the front tires, the opposite tire turns turns the opposite direction. The driver side wheel didn’t turn as much as the passenger side. I thought this was odd, and so I hit the accelerator and the driver side wasn’t turning that great while the passenger side was. I had my girlfriend come and hit the accelerator while I watched from the front and confirmed this was happening. I then went in to research a little and also check some info for the brake lights not working.
When I came back out and turned the key, the PSDM started clicking rapidly and the display was flashing on and off. I turned off the main switch and then back on. It kept doing this and for a brief second it looked like an error code 51 showed on the display. I turned the main switch off again and went back in to do more reading. When I went back out an hour later and turned the main switch back on, the screen doesn’t even come on. I release the parking brake and the buzzer does sound. I checked the fuses and they aren’t blown, although how do you tell if the main fuses are blown?
Any ideas or help would be appreciated. The local GEM dealer will only work on 2007 and newer models.
I have 80.5 volts on pin 12. I replaced the fuse and still nothing. The troubleshooting chart says to check for 12 V at pins 7&8 on the converter as well as pins A & B at J4 on PSDM. How do you do this without the converter plugged in?
it was a problem with 2005 and 2006 cars with PSDM and missing power and some lamps.
you can try to torque this bolts
POWER SIGNAL DISTRIBUTION MODULE
A LOSS OF POWER WILL RENDER THE CAR INOPERATIVE AND, IF IT HAPPENS WHILE DRIVING, CAN RENDER THE VEHICLE A ROAD HAZARD. ADDITIONALLY, LOSS OF HEADLAMP, TAIL LAMP OR TURN SIGNAL LAMP FUNCTIONS COULD LIMIT THE VEHICLE’S VISIBILITY TO OTHER DRIVERS, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
I don’t have 12V at spade 6, so I suspect the converter went out. I replaced the fuse in it and no real change. The display did flick on and off a few times prior to this and I checked on fuse 9 while this was happening. It would show about 4V when on and drop to 0.3V when off. It sounds like the converter needs to be replaced, or is there somewhere it can be sent to be repaired?
I ended up replacing the DC/DC converter and it has been running since then. I tried replacing the fuse in the converter first, but that didn’t work. I bought the converter on eBay for $200. Hope that helps.
Interestingly, the blinkers started working when I first changed the converter, but they don’t anymore. The horn and brake lights haven’t worked since I got it running again with the new batteries a few months ago. The headlights, tail lights, and windshield wiper have been working. It also has a heater, but it has been disconnected since I’ve been working on it and the dash is still off. If anyone has any suggestions about the blinkers, brake lights, and horn they would be helpful.
I also have a 05 Gem car that the turn signals and brake lights don’t work but the horn and wipers do. For some reason the guy put a 30a fuse where the turn signals and brake lights slot is. I checked the actual turn signal assy and everything had continuity when activated. There is also a constant 12 v source on switch power that isn’t turned off by the 30 second timer as well as some accessory plugins not working. He also had the radio memory hooked up straight to battery one but the power wire to the open fuse slot where the radio fuse would go. I believe its the PSDM, since that’s where the relay and timer are located. For some reason he also grounded battery one to the frame when he ran the memory power which is what they do to all 12v sources.