I’m a huge fan of this community and decided to purchase a 2018 e4 on Monday. Long story short I drove around for a few hours on Tuesday with no issues. I drove around yesterday (Wednesday) and started having issues about a mile into my drive.
During the first mile I was able to get up to speed, accelerate, and drive normally. After the first mile I started to lose power and it became difficult to go above 10 miles an hour and accelerate. I don’t live in a hilly area.
When I slowly but surely limped back home I started to charge my e4 and the battery gauge showed the batteries losing power and draining.
The seller installed 4 new Duralast Batteries 31-950
Gem has 280 miles
I haven’t noticed the battery gauge go below fully charged when driving.
I noticed the following error codes when scrolling through gauge modes:
- 520549: 4
- 520553: 4
- 520545: 4
- 520546: 4
- 523: 2
- ETR25: 16 (While plugged in)
It charged overnight and I just unplugged it, turned it on, and looked at the battery gauge that is at 33%. The percentage started to increase about 1% per second until it reached 99%.
I’m not sure what to do at this point. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Update: Just drove 5 miles after being plugged in overnight with no issues.
Identify your charger. It is probably under the front hood.
I will probably be a DQ and will be a yellow box with black fins, it has a dedicated display panel on one end that will show you more of what it is doing.
Make sure it is fully finishing it’s charge and not having an issue.
Without looking into the Duralast batteries, I’m betting they are not ideal for Cart Operations. People do that kind of thing just to sell the car.
I wouldn’t bank on the SOC Battery Display being even close to accurate. Get yourself a meter and start keeping track of battery voltages as you are running around. The general rule for Wet Cells is that once you hit 12.00v on any of the batteries it is considered depleted.
Also- You should check the work of the PO. Depending on what your car originally came with, Switching out battery types also involves switching charger profiles. Not doing so will totally kill your batteries in a few months. This is another reason to locate the charger status panel.
auxiliary onboard battery status?
He’s got the smaller gauge red wire going to the battery on the right, I think that means no aux battery? Mine has an aux battery and that cable is disconnected. Think that’s part of installing it
Thanks for the responses and the help. The charger is a QuiQ Delta-Q PN 4016041. I didn’t find an onboard battery other than the four Duralast in the back.
I’ll get a meter and start monitoring and see if I can find out the batteries that were installed before.
The charging status is:
Icon I - Blinking Amber
Solid Battery Icon - Flashing Green
AC On (Line) Icon - Solid Amber
The Battery Display says BATT LOW with one bar and I’m guessing that’s not accurate.
Makes sense. I was never quite sure why some new gems have it while some others don’t.
If you have one, it would be under the dash on the passenger side
Guessing for a bunch of accessories? When you add power steering, stereo, etc, etc?
Need to check the profile on the charger. It either blinks the profile code # at power up or maybe you have to disconnect one lead then power up.
Why that is important is that if it’s set to say gel batteries, it will undercharge your lead acids and slowly kill them. The other way around, lead profile on gel, to will boil the gel and murder them quickly, for example
Go back and look on the end of the charger, not your dash panel/display.
Your charger has its own panel. I saw a late model car the other day and they mounted charger in such a way that it perfectly hid what you need to be looking at.
You may need to dismount the charger and pull it up a bit so you can see what I’m talking about. You are looking for a panel like this-
Found the DeltaQ (912-4854-05) charger under the hood. Its set to algorithm 28, but I haven’t found a way to determine which algorithm it needs to be set to. Does anyone know which one I should set it to?
I have (4) of the below Duralast:
There’s not an onboard battery under the hood and I’ve been checking the voltage with a multimeter.
Right after an overnight charge the voltage on each battery was 13.12, 13.02, 13.32, 13.34. After 7 miles I checked again and it was 12.4, 12.13, 12.63, 12.70.
Put a car charger on batt 1&2 and see if you can get rhem up to the level of 3&4.
Then check them again after a few cycles to see if they stay up there.
This is balancing the pack.
You shouldn’t have to disconnect anything.
Will do. Thanks for the advice. Do you know which algorithm profile I need to set the charger to?
If talking about the aux battery, will be on the other side of the firewall, on the passenger side. It’s under the dashboard. (If it exists)
You have a couple of problems here. First those are not a deep cycle battery. Second they are only 100ah approx. The batteries that come in Gems are 150ah-224ah, these are way to small. Third your charger is on the Gel setting, this will destroy any “flooded” battery in a short period of time. You can take it to a Gem dealer for a reprogram but strong possibility they are already severely damaged. You are going to need a new set of batteries. Where are you located?
I was thinking along the same lines as @LithiumGods. Previous owner mostly likely just wanted to make it go to sell it. My 2 cents, I wouldn’t waste any more time with those wet cells and configuring your car to work with them. @LithiumGods @Inwo @djgabriel2004 have figured out some good solutions to move to lithium.
I bought a 2016 a year ago and had zero desire to drive it until I was able to make it lithium and go faster than 25 mph. Now I drive it everywhere I can like a second car. The new cars have SO much potential.
I agree with everything that has been said here, Charger in wrong algo and Previous owner put these batteries to sell it.
did you buy it from a guy in California by any chance?