I got a sprocket and chain on today and I slapped on a 1205 until I build my own controller. At 48v it did 35-40mph with enough acceleration I’d trust it around town to get me into traffic. I tossed in a 5th battery to make 60v and did 45mph. Considering the other 4 batteries had a few miles on them now I should see closer to 50mph@60v. It didn’t blow the 100amp fuse I put in for saftey. Goal is 85mph top speed with 120v. Anyone know where I can get a 54 tooth #50 sprocket cheap? Anyone even reading this?
In a box of misc. FJ parts I bought off ebay are these nice little rubber engine mounts I plan to use. For some reason my motor makes a slight vibration I’d like not to feel.
I got some pics and a drive by 3 second video but I left my camera at the shop. -doh!-
My motor has a vibration for some reason so I changed over from hard mounts to rubber ones (see first two pics). The batteries are just laying in there about where they need to go. There are 8. One more will go above the rear shock and another in front where the speed control is currently mounted.
I did some more cutting grinding and welding today. I had to cut the rear seat-frame in half longways to make a D shape out of the tubes. This gave me the 3/8" width I needed for the rear most battery. I also moved the shock mount I mentioned but after making the battery frame, it looks like I didn’t have to move the mount. -doh!- I might cut it off again and move it back where it was. That saves me having to make longer links in the suspension. Pics tomorrow of all but 2 batteries in the chassis on their frames. The two battery frames are designed to interconnect to each other for strength and to be removable so I can copy it later out of aluminum.
Here’s some more pics. Two are the frame rail that had to be modified. Two are the upper battery tray that holds the top 5 batteries. I still need to make a modification to it for a bracket and I’ll probably send it out for powercoating. Krylon sucks. Last is the aluminum sprocket cover with a quick buff. oooo shiny. =)
Not much to tell. I’m tied up with another project and I have alot of electronics to design and build for the bike. I’m probably going to make a new wiring harness rather then nibble away at the original. It just seems easier. I might have a functioning controller by this weekend. If I do I’ll have a 96v video for you guys. =) I bet 96v get’s it over 70mph.
I did get a chance to test fit the gas tank on the frame the upper pack installed. It fits fine. I still plan on gutting the tank and craming the DC-DC in it or maybe a cord reel from a drop light for my AC power cord. The onboard charging will be minimal. I’ll probably just use a bunch of scooter chargers but this works well for equalizing the pack.
With just the headlight and running lights I get 11a (6+2+2+1). With the headlight/tail/running/brake I get 15a (6+2+2+4+1). With the healight/tail/running/brake/turn I get 15/17a (6+2+2+4+1+2).
I replaced ALL the lights with LEDs except the headlight. Now with everything I can light at once I only get 7a draw. I’ve eliminated 10amps off the 12v system. 120w worth! If I go with 35w HIDs (~4a) I’ll only need 5a to light up the whole bike. That’s only 60 watts! I can get away with a much smaller dc-dc converter now. It looks like the little $10 Vector converter will work out just fine.
Just some rough math… Lets say the dc-dc was 100% efficient. :rolleyes: I’m running a 120v pack so say 10a on the 12v side is 1a on the 120v side. In that case I’ll only be drawing 0.33a for the dc-dc vs. 1.7a. 5x less.
I bought a sprocket from the surplus place Robb007 pointed out. 61 tooth #50 for $15. What a deal. A trip to the machine shop and a case of beer later I have a perfect fit on the Yamaha’s rim. 3.8125:1 ratio with the 16t front. ~75mph at ~3900rpm. I may swiss-cheese it because it’s heavy. More pics soon.
[QUOTE=frodus;3822]how hard was it to fit on your bike wheel?[/QUOTE]
The surplus sprocket had a hub built in it. The shop cut that out on the lathe to a 130mm hole then drilled the 6 mounting holes. So for me it was a bolt-on swap when it came from the shop. Cost me 24 Millers.
