You DID pick up on the hint that it needed to be 14ga or better?
A regular computer/monitor cord is 18ga and while it would work for a test, but be a little light for permanent/full time use.
You also need to be replacing whatever you were using to plug into your car. I bet that one shows signs that it was heating up too. Just replace the end with a good quality plug, but it should be a design that will fit your cap/door on your hood.
Not just the cord, but the END of the cord. A good quality supply cord can be expensive(depending on how long your run is). See if your local hardware store has a nice replacement female end that can be wired onto your cord that will work with your arrangement.
Yep- If that fits inside your charging port in your hood.
It beats my thought of making a mold using clay and a dowell of proper diameter, inserting your new power plug into the middle and melting $14 of hot glue around it to fill in the void. But then you wouldn’t be able to bury a couple of blue LED’s in the diameter and wiring it up so it glows at night when you are plugging it in.
Oh snap!!! It would glow like Tony Stark’s Arc Reactor!!!
Now with a full charge I’m getting the flashing turtle but the Gem is driving fine.
I first replaced the power cord with a Heavy Duty Computer Power Cord, 15A, 14AWG.
I used a standard outdoor power cord to charge it and had no problems. That is I got a full charge and it drove fine. There was no flashing turtle.
Then I replaced the external outdoor power cord with the one I had before that burnt out.
It’s a Outdoor Cord-12/3 Heavy Duty. This is the same as previous with no problems.
But now I have the flashing yellow turtle. Why is that?
I replaced the outdoor extension cord with the one I had used before for at least a year with no problems.
It does give me a full charge and driving fine but now I have the flashing turtle.
It is 12 AWG and 50’
It is this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQF4
Southwire 2588SW0002 Outdoor Cord-12/3 SJTW Heavy Duty 3 Prong Extension Cord-for Commercial Use (50’, Yellow).
I prefer it this long for where it is relative to my one outdoor outlet without drilling a hole through the wall.
remember, you melted your short charger cable by creating a short circuit which caused lots of current to flow through the wiring. That includes all of the connections from the breaker in the Mains panel all the way to the charger on the GEM. 50’ at 12AWG should be good for upto 20A.
I would check all your plugs(prongs and sockets) for discoloration and signs of over heating. It might not be the wire in the extension cord that’s causing a problem. Also look at your charger indicator LEDs to see if the charge is completing correctly(no errors).
How did you determine your car has “full charge”?
Ignore the display on the dash for now and scrounge up a meter. Does the display on the charger go to green light?
It sounds like there is more going on to this story.
Do a complete pack check and service. Check all your connections and cables(they need to be tight and bright). Do a load test on the batteries and depending on what you find, do a load test with your meter on the controller to see what it sees when under load.
The turtle is a Low PackV warning. It is detecting a battery pack that has dropped very low WHILE DRIVING and throws the controller into limp mode.
The Turtle is reset when it sees a charge cycle. It doesn’t get cleared by a power down reset.
When was the last time this car was working properly?
a week ago?
What batteries are in this car?
How old are they?
When was the last time you checked the balance of your pack?
I’ll check all the batteries.
More than just a check of each battery, Do a complete pack check and service. If you are running wet cells, make sure they are watered up. Check all your connections and cables(they need to be tight and bright). Do a load test on the batteries and depending on what you find, do a load test with your meter on the controller to see what it sees when under load.
A dirty or loose connection looks like a bad battery to the controller. This is the reason for doing a load test at the controller (if all the batteries look ok).
I determined it was full by the full green bars on the display.
There is a chance that is no longer accurate and in need of resetting. For now, consider it might be lying to you. The Dash mounted SOC (State of Charge) meter works Ok in normal conditions but your car is not working normally. Don’t trust that battery meter for now. There is a chance you have a battery failing. Sometimes it is obvious, sometimes tough to find.
I don’t use a charger with a display.
Yes you do(unless your charger has been changed out with something else), your charger has it’s own built in display, Your charger is mounted in the front under the hood on the shelf under your motor controller. It is visible from the driver side of you look over the top of the wheel, past the shock and towards the center of the car. It looks like this (except upside down in the car).
It ran great when I first replaced the inner cable with the computer cable and then used a std outdoor extension cord about a week ago. When I upgraded the outdoor extension cord with the same that burnt out before I got the flashing turtle a few days ago. It still runs fast but with the flashing turtle.
The batteries all came from Polaris OEM and were replaced about two years ago.
I haven’t checked them for two years I have a volt meter and just got a hydrometer to check.
Thanks for the info. Clearly, I need a deep check on the electrical and batteries. Even if I didn’t have these issues.