New lithium batteries installed, Zivan charger not back from being reprogrammed yet. I’ve got 77.6V to the main contactor, but when I turn the key on the contacts doesn’t close. Is it because the charger is not hooked up?
Most likely.
Rodney suggests connecting the two interlock wires together to bypass a Zivan.
I think!
I’m not sure which wires that would be.
I’ll invite Rodney and search threads.
There are 4 wires in addition to the 110AC power input on your Zivan 2 of them are the charger output wires.(Red + Black -) disconnect them and hook up your 72 volt charger where you took them off. The other 2 wires are interlock wires to prevent driving while the unit is being charged . If you remove the Zivan you will have to jumper them to drive the car.
Rodney
OK, I’m in for the night, but I’ll check that tomorrow.
I jumped the interlock and got my 12V system working and a 04 fault code, so I did some checking and found high resistance in the ebrake switch. After I jumped around the brake switch, things appeared to be working OK. Then to my surprise the UPS man dropped of my charger a day early 
.
I hooked the charger up as directed, with the sheet that was sent with it. When I left the 5 pin plug, with the thermal sensor unplugged as instructed, I received the starting audible beeps and the fan came on and seemed to be working, but I had no LED indication. So I unplugged the charger and plugged in the 5 pin connector. I plugged the charger back in and received high low warning beeps, continuous, and flashing yellow LED. So I unplugged the charger again and cut the thermal sensor from the 5 pin harness and made sure that the two wires in the cut end were separated. I plugged the charger back in and got the same high low audible, continuous, and flashing yellow.
Any suggestions?
Oh, sorry. It’s the Zivan. Can’t help you there.
Ignore my DQ answer in other thread.
I’m still waiting on an answer from Zivan concerning the no LED problem. I went ahead and gave the new (to me) lithium pack their first charge while monitoring the voltage from time to time. I started at 77.60V and ended up with 89.5 the last time that I checked it before it shut off. The total elapsed time was about 4 hours. Now the new wrinkle that I didn’t consider is: at voltage greater than 86V I get fault code -16. How do I get around that? Dave do you have something in your bag of tricks to fix that?
Yes, I do.
I lower the voltage that controller sees by 15 volts.
You can then run 100v and car will go into turtle mode 15 volts above normal to protect pack.
15v is what I use on mine. Can customize.
Remind me of what I sent you (other than trouble 
), Did we talk about this before?
We have not talked about this before. I’ve got a BMS from you, but haven’t wire it up yet. How much is it and how fast can you ship it to me? I’m leaving for FL this weekend and the GEM is going along for the ride. Oh, and you repaired a DQ for my other GEM.
How do you post a reply with the post that you are replying too?
You mean quote a post? I scroll across it and quote pops up.
I pm’ed you.
I remember those two things. It was Darren who used 24s Volt and got a spoof from me. That’s who I was thinking of. What max voltage do you want?
I had one partially built. I finished as spoof only 6.8 volts.
The extra leads were for programming.
I’ll explain simple connection when you get it.
Maybe I should wait until I see if you need something for charger?
spoof worked great. Easiest thing I did today.
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